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Powers.Goldwire
Dec 14, 2011, 9:15 PM
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Has any one attempted the 5.13A roof crack in Dawson Bluff, KY? Its supposably the 10th hardest roof crack in the world. I've aided it and belayed my buddy on it. But, I wanted some input on anyone elses experiance on this route. Thanks
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6pacfershur
Dec 15, 2011, 3:24 AM
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please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
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rockforlife
Dec 15, 2011, 5:33 AM
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6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
your kidding right?
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sungam
Dec 15, 2011, 12:21 PM
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6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
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billl7
Dec 15, 2011, 1:32 PM
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6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
Bill L
(This post was edited by billl7 on Dec 15, 2011, 1:33 PM)
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camhead
Dec 15, 2011, 1:41 PM
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sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders.
Is true, I caught HIV from Kansas City.
As for Thermonuclear, I've wanted to check it out for a while, asked about it on another website years ago, but I can never bring myself to drive past the Red to get to Dawson Bluff. It and Champagne Jam at Sandrock are probably the two great "unknown" hard roof cracks in the East.
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sungam
Dec 15, 2011, 2:07 PM
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camhead wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. Is true, I caught HIV from Kansas City. As for Thermonuclear, I've wanted to check it out for a while, asked about it on another website years ago, but I can never bring myself to drive past the Red to get to Dawson Bluff. It and Champagne Jam at Sandrock are probably the two great "unknown" hard roof cracks in the East.
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olderic
Dec 15, 2011, 2:53 PM
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sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders.
I think you mean clean aid. Unless you are French...
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climbingtrash
Dec 15, 2011, 3:21 PM
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6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb?
Probably because it's too hard for him to free climb? << Too obvious and answer?
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colatownkid
Dec 15, 2011, 3:28 PM
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camhead wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. Is true, I caught HIV from Kansas City. As for Thermonuclear, I've wanted to check it out for a while, asked about it on another website years ago, but I can never bring myself to drive past the Red to get to Dawson Bluff. It and Champagne Jam at Sandrock are probably the two great "unknown" hard roof cracks in the East.
Don't forget "Rat's Ass" at Steele, AL.
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6pacfershur
Dec 15, 2011, 5:00 PM
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sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders.
next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold!
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Dip
Dec 15, 2011, 8:26 PM
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6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold!
Oh jesus christ. An "in eldo..." post. Please tell me you included that in the thread on mp.
http://www.mountainproject.com/...33847__6#a_107281968
edited to add link
(This post was edited by Dip on Dec 15, 2011, 8:29 PM)
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johnwesely
Dec 15, 2011, 8:49 PM
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6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold!
Because aiding an obscure roof crack is even in the same neighborhood as aiding one of the most popular moderate free climbs in the world.
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sungam
Dec 16, 2011, 12:26 AM
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6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold!
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sungam
Dec 16, 2011, 12:27 AM
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olderic wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. I think you mean clean aid. Unless you are French...
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styndall
Dec 16, 2011, 1:02 AM
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6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold!
I'd like to nominate this for Post of the Year 2011. Seconds?
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6pacfershur
Dec 16, 2011, 2:04 AM
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johnwesely wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold! Because aiding an obscure roof crack is even in the same neighborhood as aiding one of the most popular moderate free climbs in the world.
please take this opportunity to explain the criteria to us: when is it acceptable to aid climb a free climb and when is it not...............
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johnwesely
Dec 16, 2011, 2:37 AM
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6pacfershur wrote: johnwesely wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold! Because aiding an obscure roof crack is even in the same neighborhood as aiding one of the most popular moderate free climbs in the world. please take this opportunity to explain the criteria to us: when is it acceptable to aid climb a free climb and when is it not...............
When doing so wouldn't make you a jerk. Seems pretty simple to me.
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charlie.elverson
Dec 16, 2011, 2:51 AM
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6pacfershur wrote: johnwesely wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: sungam wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: please dont take this the wrong way....why are you aid climbing on a free climb? As long as it is free aid, why not? Hard roof cracks get aided all the time. For example, Camhead practically aided KCC there were so many fixed nutz on it from other aiders. next time you're in colorado, stop by eldo with your aid rack and try getting on the naked edge....make sure you bring a video camera because the ensuing ass-kicking you get will be gold! Because aiding an obscure roof crack is even in the same neighborhood as aiding one of the most popular moderate free climbs in the world. please take this opportunity to explain the criteria to us: when is it acceptable to aid climb a free climb and when is it not...............
you tell 'em 6pac! That goes double for all the jerks aiding the nose and moonlight buttress!
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Lazlo
Dec 16, 2011, 4:28 AM
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Lazlo
Dec 16, 2011, 4:30 AM
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Don't nobody free my aid climb! If I see anyone with a chalk bag near my route......
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guangzhou
Dec 16, 2011, 7:27 AM
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A friend of mine lived near the area, so I've spent some time at Dawson, but never managed to free Thermonuclear crack. I've manged to do most of the routes there.
One person above mentioned Champagne Jams, not sure, it's been nearly a decade, but I think the route is actually Champain Jams because of the cobbles inside.
A couple of great Roof Cracks at T-wall too. Hands Across America.
Cheers
Eman
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sungam
Dec 16, 2011, 8:32 AM
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Lazlo wrote: Don't nobody free my aid climb! If I see anyone with a chalk bag near my route......
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camhead
Dec 16, 2011, 12:33 PM
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guangzhou wrote: A friend of mine lived near the area, so I've spent some time at Dawson, but never managed to free Thermonuclear crack. I've manged to do most of the routes there. One person above mentioned Champagne Jams, not sure, it's been nearly a decade, but I think the route is actually Champain Jams because of the cobbles inside. A couple of great Roof Cracks at T-wall too. Hands Across America. Cheers Eman
I got bored a couple years ago, and put together this incomplete list of roof cracks across the world.
In reply to: The Monument, White Bluff, 5.12+ Zombie Roof, Squamish, 5.13a Coffin Roof, Little Cottonwood, 5.12a Capitol Roof, Capitol Reef, UT, 5.11 Master Blaster, Zion, 5.13+ Fiddler on the Roof, Fremont Canyon, 5.13+ Separate Reality, Yosemite, 5.11+ Desperate Reality, Wichita Mtns., 5.12b Desert Reality, Red Rocks, 5.11 Arkansas Reality, Sam's Throne, 5.11c Celestial Mechanics, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c (longest continuous roof splitter that I've yet seen) Hands Across America, Tennessee Wall, 5.12c Dream Thiever, Red River Gorge, 5.12a Stolen Tiggers, New River Gorge, 5.12b Biodiesel, New River Gorge, 5.13b Greatest Show on Earth, New River Gorge, 5.13a Kansas City, Gunks, 5.12c Jean's Overhang, Tishomingo, MS, 5.12a Champagne Jam, Sandrock, AL, 5.12+ Thermonuclear, Dawson Bluffs, KY, 5.13- International: Greenspit, Valle de Orco, Italy, 5.14- (?) Passport to Insanity, Grampians, Aus, 5.12c Kalbarri Gold, Western Australia, 5.12 There are certainly some that I've forgotten.
Add the recent Necronomicon in Canyonlands to this list.
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