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Bolting 101: Bolting Class in Mexico March 2-12
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Ulric


Dec 16, 2011, 7:40 AM
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Bolting 101: Bolting Class in Mexico March 2-12
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I am not sure if this is the right tread to post this but here goes.

Contact me with any questions at:ulricrousseau@gmail.com

or call me at 514 688 4348
(I am in mexico now so don;t get upset if it takes me a couple days to respond :).)

Check this out for motivation and spouse approuval
[url]http://ulricrousseau.blogspot.com/2011/12/bolting-101-part-one.html


Name: Bolting 101
Location: El Salto, Cienega, Mexico.
Duration: 10 days
Occ: 2-person minimum, 5 Maximum
Guide and Teacher: Ulric Rousseau
Date: March 2 to 12 2012 and March 12 to the 21st 2011
Language: English and French
Cost: $3,200 USD - Transportation to and from MTY airport, Accommodations, Breakfast and Dinner, all course material, Drill rental and "Yours to keep" gear included (1000$ Wholesale Value, see list below).

Flight not included. Meet at the MTY airport Holliday Inn at 9am March 2 2011. Drop off March 12 at 11am at the MTY airport.
Sponsors: Maxim, Pusher, Revolution, Fixe, Hilti, Fabrica, So iLL


Note: Whatever you have heard about Mexico and its dangers are totally insane. The wars going on are between the cartels, and not the citizens. I have never felt safer in Mexico, and I have been coming here for 13 years.


This is a magical moment in our lives. Where technology has come together with human spirit and now allows us to bolt new lines, in relative safety and consideration of the environment, anywhere where possible and accepted. You will live an experience far beyond your dreams. You will be isolated in a small village ( population 256 ), away from street traffic and concrete. You will be working harder then you have ever before in your life, you will sleep better and longer than ever in your existence, you will wake naturally, early, to birds, roosters and dogs beckoning you to rise with them at the brink of dawn. The memories and information that you will bring back with you, along with the knowledge and experience, will change you forever. This is far from a club med vacation. You will be dirty, you will smell bad, you will cut and scrap and bruise yourself in places you didn’t know existed. Your harness will hurt you, you will drop gear from 150 feet and have to rap down to get it and jug back up. You will lose weight, and gain muscle; you will climb better, laugh and cry harder than ever before. I will be there every step of the way with you, I will hold the back seat to the safety wheels until I feel you are ready to go at it alone. Within hours of bolting your first route, you will start thinking about buying land in Mexico, or in Spain.


Plan:
March 2:
Morning - Personal mini bus will ride us from the Holliday Inn in Monterrey to the grocery store in Cercado, NL and will stop for one hour for purchase of personal items. We will then drive up a switchback road for 2 hours leading us to Cienega, deep in the northern mountains of Monterrey.
Afternoon - You will unpack and set up in the communal house and have lunch (included). We will crack open a beer and I will give out all the gear and go through in detail how everything works. ( drill, bolts, hangers ect… ) and we will all set up our gear for the following day with detailed explanations throughout. Refresher ( class ) on Aide climbing and drilling holes and we will end the day with a walk into the canyon to see the new wall to be developed. Dinner.

March 3:
Morning - Breakfast at 8am and hike into the canyon. We will climb until noon at Las Animas wall to get acquainted and to firm up team spirit. we will break for a quick lunch and then head back to the wall we will be working on.
Afternoon - You will each pick a line and will all put in the first bolts together, with the enfaces on theory of placing a bolt, where, how, when ect. Breaking strength, PSI, torque, bits, holes, glue and anchors and everything will be put to test together. You will all drill holes and we will all discuss the good and bad aspects of everyone’s work.
Evening - Dinner and round table on the day’s events, Q&A where everyone will take part in answering.

March 4:
Morning - breakfast at 7am and hike out to the wall with all our gear. We will begin with everyone belaying for 2 hours and bolting the other 2 hours with a partner up to the mid point of one route.
Afternoon - Return to camp. Shower, beers and rope work for bolting solo and set up all your gear for working alone.
Evening - Dinner at a restaurant and roundtable

March 5:
Morning - Breakfast at 6am and hike out. Same as march 4th but on your partners route.
Afternoon - Climbing at the Tecelote cave
Evening - Dinner home cooked and Q&A and free time.

March 6:
Morning - breakfast at 6am and hike out. Gear up and jug to high point of your route where you will cast off to finish your line from the previous day alone.
Afternoon - Return to the ground for lunch and explanation of anchors and return up your routes to clean, replace bolts if need be, reinforce holds and finish the anchors with chains.
Evening - Dinner and Q&A.

March 7:
Morning - Breakfast at 6am and hike out. You will all bolt a new line, ground up, on lead, SOLO.
Evening - Dinner and Q&A.

March 8
Morning - Breakfast at 6am and hike out. You will all bolt a new line rap bolting.
Afternoon - Free time
Evening - dinner and free time and Q&A


March 9
Breakfast at 9am, Climbing (free time or bolting with me if more time is required to perfect your skills), dinner

March 10
Breakfast 9am, Climbing (free time or bolting with me if more time is required to perfect your skills), dinner

March 11
Breakfast 9am, Climbing (free time or bolting with me if more time is required to perfect your skills), dinner

March 12
Morning - Breakfast at 6am, packing, shower and bus ride at 9am to MTY airport.

March 12-20 (optional)
Climbing in Potrero Chico or Chonta (3 hours south of Mexico City) not included in the price.







Yours to Keep after the class. ( all gear is new when you get it on your first day ).

2 Maxim Ropes and Accessory Cord
Pusher SACK
Revolution Brush Pack
Fixe Hammer and Hand Drill
Fabrica Personal Anchors
Protection Eyeglasses
So iLL Chalk and Permadraws
Gloves
3 t-shirts from the event

Included in the Price (and your to keep after the Class)
5 Bosch Bits
45 Fixe Stainless steel Hangers
60 Stainless 4’’ ½’’ Bolts
15 meters of Chains
3 Special aide bits from Fabrica
1 80M Double Dry 9.5 Maxim Pinnacle Rope
1 x 100m 10mm Static KM III New England Rope
2 Eye Protection Glasses
1 Pusher Sack
1 Revolution Brush Pack
2 tubes of Sika Glue
1 Glue Gun
3 pairs of work Gloves
3 event T-shirts
1 30’ spool of Accessory Cord
1 Fixe aide Hammer
1 Fixe HandDrill
So iLL Chalk and 5 Permadraws
House Rental
Personal chef for the entire stay in Cienega
Full Hot Breakfast
Full Hot Dinner and Beers
Doctor on site 24h.
Internet Access (TBC)
Photos of your adventure processed everyday on a personal DVD to take home.






Bring from home:
(All your personal clothes and things must include the following list of items.)

1 Comfortable all day harness
1 small adjustable wrench
1 medium adjustable wrench
1 Sport harness (optional)
2 pairs climbing shoes ( one comfort, one performance )
4 Five Step BD stepladders in 4 different colors
2 Identical daisy chains
15 Acc biners
15 Locking acc biners
1 Gri Gri
1 ATC or equivalent
1 set of RPs
1 set of 3-5 different hooks
2 Full Jumar handle
1 Mini Traction or equivalent
1 UIAA certified helmet
5 Shoulder length slings in different colors
30 Quick draws
1 Pair of approach shoes
1 Pair of all day hiking boots
1 Pair of sandals
2 Pair of work pants
3 Work t-shirts
2 hood-dies
1 Down jacket
1 roll of duct tape
1 roll of Climbing tape
1 -18celcius sleeping bag
1 winter hat
1 messenger bag or small day pack to work with on route.

Attention: This is a full class, covering everything to do with Bolting a new line on Aide, SOLO. This is a very dangerous activity and you will be asked to sign a complete weaver including but not limited to possible death, injury and/or paralysis. Please be aware. Good physical ability and a drive to do this is most crucial.


Pre-requisites
21 yr old (18-20 with parent approval, 14-17 with chaperone)
Must be in good physical and mental shape
Must on-sight 5.11 on sport, outside
Be comfortable or willing to learn jugging and rappelling maneuvers on single ropes.
Indoor route setting experience a plus
Aide experience a plus
Must speak English or French
Minimum 4 years climbing
Climbing resume


Ulric


Dec 19, 2011, 9:02 AM
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Re: [Ulric] Bolting 101: Bolting Class in Mexico March 2-12 [In reply to]
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I've gotten a lot of comments on the price and I needed to explain it all.

This is all inclusive. Food, transportation, hardware ect.

Its supper cheap considering the class and the reason I am doing it in Mexico is because there is no paperwork and its free to bolt anywhere and flights are cheap from the states.

If you wish to take the class but do not want all the gear to keep, that can be arranged, and it knocks off about 1200$.

I added it cause I thought it was a cool idea. Guess times are tight.

Also, yes you can take the class if you climb 5.10. Grades do not matter, its just to make sure you are stable and competent. Its a hard job to bolt routes, so be aware.

I've got 3 spaces left for the first class in March and 4 for the second.

Hit me up on FB to see pics and videos.

I close registration on Feb 1st 2012 so I can get everything organized for the participants.

Can't wait to see you all down here.


USnavy


Dec 20, 2011, 3:09 AM
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Re: [Ulric] Bolting 101: Bolting Class in Mexico March 2-12 [In reply to]
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Ulric wrote:

Its supper cheap
I disagree. Ten days and over three grand to learn how to bolt a route? That’s ludicrous, this is bolting, not big wall FA training. There is no way you need ten days to learn how to bolt a route. While I agree bolting is a serious task and there are many angles to consider when creating a sport line, it is not so complex that you need ten full days of instruction to learn the basics. And $3,200 to learn this single topic is also ludicrous. You could hire any professional sport climber in the world for less than that and have them teach you how to bolt. Or better yet, you could ask to shadow around one of the big name local developers in your area. Offer him free grunt work in exchange for some instruction in bolting and you can learn the basics for free!

What is with 18-20 year olds needing parental approval? I guess the laws in Mexico are different. In the United States no one over the age of 18 ever needs parental approval for anything because the state considers people over the age of 17 to be legal adults that are legally independent from their legal guardians or parents. Legal guardians loose full legal control over virtually every aspect of their child's life when s/he turns 18.

Lastly, you're telling your prospective clients they need to submit a climbing resume to you so you can determine their eligibility and worth, but you dont know how to spell aid or onsight? Come on... Also, what is with the 80m dynamic rope and 100m static rope? Where on Earth would you ever need that much rope to bolt a sport line? There are not many 80m long sport lines out there.

Sorry but I think you are making this a lot bigger and more complicated than it needs to be.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Dec 20, 2011, 3:47 AM)


Partner j_ung


Dec 20, 2011, 5:29 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Bolting 101: Bolting Class in Mexico March 2-12 [In reply to]
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You can learn everything in climbing by shadowing somebody more experienced, and yet instruction for pretty much everything exists. Why not this? Considering what's included in the class, plus 10 days of food and lodging, I think it's a pretty sweet deal.

And frankly, ten days to learn to bolt effectively—on lead, on aid, solo—actually seems a little short. I wish every aspiring route developer put as much time into his or her education before taking drill to rock.

My concern is that the only line to cross before you can go out into the world and poke holes is drawn on money. It's not really my business, but to what ethical standards will they be trained?


Partner j_ung


Dec 20, 2011, 5:31 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Bolting 101: Bolting Class in Mexico March 2-12 [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
Lastly, you're telling your prospective clients they need to submit a climbing resume to you so you can determine their eligibility and worth, but you dont know how to spell aid or onsight?

Also, it's pretty blaringly obvious that English isn't his first language. He's not in America, so telling him to speak American is a little weird.


Ulric


Dec 20, 2011, 7:08 AM
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Re: [Ulric] Bolting 101: Bolting Class in Mexico March 2-12 [In reply to]
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I appreciate the comments but I also do not think its ridiculas as price is concerned. But all opinions are worthy.

Yes ethics is a huge part of bolting. Its in every aspect of the class. Sorry I did not label it in the outline.

Cheers...

PS. Bingo, french is my first language, but typos do happen friends.


(This post was edited by Ulric on Dec 20, 2011, 7:11 AM)


Partner j_ung


Dec 20, 2011, 9:38 AM
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Re: [Ulric] Bolting 101: Bolting Class in Mexico March 2-12 [In reply to]
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Ulric wrote:
Yes ethics is a huge part of bolting. Its in every aspect of the class. Sorry I did not label it in the outline.

I'm just curious. Feel free to not answer, but what are some of those ethics? How do you approach the issue of bolts next to protectable features, for example?


Lazlo


Dec 20, 2011, 10:59 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Bolting 101: Bolting Class in Mexico March 2-12 [In reply to]
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I think he has an acceptable price for an acceptable course.

I'm glad he's offering a professional and well-planned course to those who are interested and have the money.


caughtinside


Dec 20, 2011, 11:00 AM
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Re: [j_ung] Bolting 101: Bolting Class in Mexico March 2-12 [In reply to]
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This is a pretty interesting post. I guess it's good for those that want to learn this stuff and don't have access to a local who knows bolting. On the other hand, training an army of bolters and then unleashing them on the crags is a little frightening. I really hope Ulric and crew have lots of experience and pass on lots of the nuances of bolting routes. Many of the routes at Potrero Chico are some of the most thoughtlessly bolted routes I have ever seen.

The price doesn't seem so crazy when you look at the equipment, accommodation and instruction. I saw that a hand drill is included... I hope the students don't have to bolt all those routes with hand drills!

That said, you'd have to really really want it to do it. For $3k you could have an amazing climbing trip without all the hard work and dirt and grit in your eyes from cleaning and bolting routes. 3k is probably 3-6 months living in mexico easy.


herites


Dec 20, 2011, 3:55 PM
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Re: [Ulric] Bolting 101: Bolting Class in Mexico March 2-12 [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Flight not included. Meet at the MTY airport Holliday Inn at 9am March 2 2011

You also get a time machine for the price?


Ulric


Dec 20, 2011, 5:03 PM
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Re: [j_ung] Bolting 101: Bolting Class in Mexico March 2-12 [In reply to]
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Well thats easy for el salto. Everything is bolted. If I was giving the class in Quebec, say on granite, the whole thing would be flipped upside-down. I grew up ( as a climber ) on trad and mixed routes. I would love to go into detail, maybe later. I would love to, but I would like a shower right now instead LOL.

yes, some routes are disturbingly wrongly bolted in potrero, it happens.

The reason I put this class together is for that exact reason, and because I get asked how too and with what gear ect everytime i put up a route. i thought about the interest.

yes you could go on vaca in mexico at an all inclusive for 10 days for that price. but what do you come back with?

and next year, after taking the class, you can take that 3000$ and bolt anywhere in the world for months and be self sustained.

FYI. The FFME in france gives a bolting cert. Its 5 days, bring all your gear yourself, the only thing included is glue and glue-ins. Its a retro bolting class, nothing on lead or FA's. It costs 550$ EURO and you have to eat and sleep somewhere and pay for it.

as for the rest, here is a little run down.

No, you will not hand drill 100 holes. Its nice to know how too when you run out of battery on a multipitch. yes you get to keep it.

Drill rental for 10 days, 300$
Bits, bolts, chains ect 400$
ropes 400$
lodging and food for 10 days 300$
transpo to and fro 400$
tube of glue is 30$
shipping and transpo to pick up the gear in austin 400$
and the list goes on. I dont have time to put everything down.

gotta go, shower. Cheers...

PS. if the money is the problem, you can always email me and we can make it work. I just want peeps to have a good time, put up routes, learn how too safely and further our sport!


damienclimber


Dec 20, 2011, 5:05 PM
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Re: [Ulric] Bolting 101: Bolting Class in Mexico March 2-12 [In reply to]
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Ulric wrote:
I appreciate the comments but I also do not think its ridiculas as price is concerned. But all opinions are worthy.

Yes ethics is a huge part of bolting. Its in every aspect of the class. Sorry I did not label it in the outline.

Cheers...

PS. Bingo, french is my first language, but typos do happen friends.


Why not have your course in France?


USnavy


Dec 20, 2011, 11:18 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] Bolting 101: Bolting Class in Mexico March 2-12 [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
Many of the routes at Potrero Chico are some of the most thoughtlessly bolted routes I have ever seen.
You should climb Sisyphus Summits in Canada if you think the bolt placements in EPC suck. That route brings suck to a whole different level. That route has bolt placements 15 feet to the side of the actual line. Its crazy. Crazy


(This post was edited by USnavy on Dec 20, 2011, 11:19 PM)


caughtinside


Dec 21, 2011, 10:38 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Bolting 101: Bolting Class in Mexico March 2-12 [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Many of the routes at Potrero Chico are some of the most thoughtlessly bolted routes I have ever seen.
You should climb Sisyphus Summits in Canada if you think the bolt placements in EPC suck. That route brings suck to a whole different level. That route has bolt placements 15 feet to the side of the actual line. Its crazy. Crazy

Why would I seek out and climb a lousy route?

Regarding the EPC routes... they don't all suffer from thoughtless bolt placements, but a lot of them do. Usually a look at who did the FA will tell you if they're worthy. The best potrero beta I got before I went down there was "Don't climb Dane Bass routes."


kennoyce


Dec 21, 2011, 11:45 AM
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Re: [Ulric] Bolting 101: Bolting Class in Mexico March 2-12 [In reply to]
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Ulric wrote:
Drill rental for 10 days, 300$

wow, why not just bump the price of the workshop up by $125 and let everyone keep their drill.

http://www.amazon.com/...324496491&sr=8-7


olderic


Dec 21, 2011, 11:56 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] Bolting 101: Bolting Class in Mexico March 2-12 [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
USnavy wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Many of the routes at Potrero Chico are some of the most thoughtlessly bolted routes I have ever seen.
You should climb Sisyphus Summits in Canada if you think the bolt placements in EPC suck. That route brings suck to a whole different level. That route has bolt placements 15 feet to the side of the actual line. Its crazy. Crazy

Why would I seek out and climb a lousy route?

Actually that route follows exactly where the bolts are. The fact that there is significantly easier climbing to the sides was part of the controversy when the route was established.


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