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someonekipp


Dec 20, 2011, 1:31 PM
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trenchdigger


Dec 20, 2011, 1:46 PM
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Re: [someonekipp] Anchor Question [In reply to]
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Two good bolts are generally considered 100% adequate for any anchor. Forget the third.

If the bolts are suspect, you might want the third (or another piece/tree/etc.) to back it up. A sliding x with a sling between the two closer bolts is a good way to bring them together to equalize with the third point.

But don't forget that a sliding x is not redundant (if the sling/cord cuts, you're hosed) so consider limiter knots or a tied off, 'static' equalization setup if there is any threat of abrasion or sling/cord damage.

Generally, IMHO, redundancy trumps optimized equalization, especially when dealing with bolts.

Keep practicing, and have an experienced climber check your work before you trust it.


shimanilami


Dec 20, 2011, 3:42 PM
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Re: [someonekipp] Anchor Question [In reply to]
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someonekipp wrote:
... run cord from the third bolt to an approx. equal height ...

Generally, you don't want to build anchors from pieces that are 10' apart, but if you absolutely had to do it, then this is how.


donwanadi


Dec 20, 2011, 6:34 PM
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Re: [someonekipp] Anchor Question [In reply to]
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Just use the two bolts. A sling or QD on one and use webbing on the other to get the length right. 3 good bolts is overkill.


ablanchard17


Dec 21, 2011, 3:07 PM
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Re: [someonekipp] Anchor Question [In reply to]
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Just put a plain old sliding X on the 2 bolts that are next to each other. you dont really even need limiter knots if they are trusted bolts in an established climbing area.


agdavis


Dec 21, 2011, 4:47 PM
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Re: [someonekipp] Anchor Question [In reply to]
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Forget the third. Its simply adding unnecessary complication to the anchor, especially if you are a beginner. Sliding-X on the two bolts work, but I prefer to to go with a Quad. Do a search for it. Its a truly redundant way to equalize two bolts (and its quick!). John Long advocates this method in his Climbing Anchors book.

If the sliding-x were to get cut, you'd be screwed. While I know this is probably highly unlikely, why not do it right? Once you try it, you won't want to go back to another type of anchor.


someonekipp


Dec 21, 2011, 7:33 PM
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Re: [someonekipp] Anchor Question [In reply to]
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someonekipp wrote:

Is this the best way to equalize a system that brings in a third piece of pro from a long distance (10ft+) behind the other pieces? Thanks.

I'm more interested in theory. Say the there is one bolt and then another offset 10 feet back. How would you go about equalizing these? I understand how to set a 2 bolt anchor and that this is sufficient, I am merely curious how you would go about this situation.


dan2see


Dec 21, 2011, 8:38 PM
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Re: [someonekipp] Anchor Question [In reply to]
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someonekipp wrote:
someonekipp wrote:

Is this the best way to equalize a system that brings in a third piece of pro from a long distance (10ft+) behind the other pieces? Thanks.

I'm more interested in theory. Say the there is one bolt and then another offset 10 feet back. How would you go about equalizing these? I understand how to set a 2 bolt anchor and that this is sufficient, I am merely curious how you would go about this situation.

You wouldn't. That offset bolt is not part of your anchor.

In fact I'd guess that it belongs to another route entirely. Maybe it's there to protect a traverse.

Or maybe the single bolt is actually a pro for the correct route, and the two bolts are a rappel station.


Urban_Cowboy


Dec 21, 2011, 8:58 PM
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Re: [someonekipp] Anchor Question [In reply to]
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Climbing Anchors, 2nd Edition by John Long and Bob Gaines:

http://www.amazon.com/...-Climb/dp/0762723262


mikebarter387


Dec 21, 2011, 10:03 PM
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http://youtu.be/zDXvI18p140
This might help? Course I could br trying to fuck you up.
Remember that Python skit which degrades the others status. You got bolts! All I had in my day was dirt!- Whhooo you had dirt! All we had was sand!- Fuck Sand!! we dreamed of sand! All we has was mud!!-
In reply to:
Mud!!! say's the Scottish guide!!!!!
Sheep shit!!
Anyhow you get the idea , I hope.
Go out to local crag pull on shit like your pulling a snowboarder off your sister. If it dont move tie a sling around it. do this a few more times one way or another tie the bitch together. You'll look stupid as shit but better to be a live coward then a dead hero.
http://youtu.be/pPpAkFZT_lM
Don't watch this flick. I was wasted in Newfoundland when I made it. Made the whole story up off the top of my head.. I kill me.
I was drinking down in Mexico and picked up some teaching work. I was just making shit up left right and center .

http://youtu.be/pPpAkFZT_lM


mikebarter387


Dec 21, 2011, 10:09 PM
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Re: [someonekipp] Anchor Question [In reply to]
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Some where between when I started climbing and now, fear and common sense was no longer a requirement. 1998 +/- 2YRS.


LostinMaine


Dec 22, 2011, 3:15 AM
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someonekipp wrote:
someonekipp wrote:

Is this the best way to equalize a system that brings in a third piece of pro from a long distance (10ft+) behind the other pieces? Thanks.

I'm more interested in theory. Say the there is one bolt and then another offset 10 feet back. How would you go about equalizing these? I understand how to set a 2 bolt anchor and that this is sufficient, I am merely curious how you would go about this situation.

Exactly what theory are you interested in? You proposed a hypothetical question and got the correct responses (i.e. ignore the third bolt). What more could you possibly hope to think about? Either you get basic anchor theory, or you don't. Three bolts in any conceivable configuration is as simple as it gets. There just isn't much to theorize about here...


njrox


Dec 22, 2011, 6:11 AM
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If you HAD TO use three bolts, two of them close to each other and the 3rd ten feet away…
And if you wanted to use a sliding-x as your master point…

Tie a cordellette on the two bolts
From the third bolt, run a static line ten feet.
At the end of the static line, clip a biner on an eight
From the cordellette and the biner on the eight, make the Sliding-X master point (with limiter knots)

Pretty much how you described doing it.

Again, sounds like the easiest was to do it is to avoid the third bolt altogether and just tie a Sliding-X to the two bolts. Even better, an equallette (with cord).


Partner j_ung


Dec 22, 2011, 6:22 AM
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someonekipp wrote:
someonekipp wrote:

Is this the best way to equalize a system that brings in a third piece of pro from a long distance (10ft+) behind the other pieces? Thanks.

I'm more interested in theory. Say the there is one bolt and then another offset 10 feet back. How would you go about equalizing these? I understand how to set a 2 bolt anchor and that this is sufficient, I am merely curious how you would go about this situation.

I don't think you're ever going to find that configuration. But if you do, go for a pre-distributed and tied off anchor system, rather than one that equalizes dynamically. It'll look like this, but there'll be 2 bolts instead of three. The arm to the ten-foot-back bolt will be longer.


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