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Best harness go route setting???
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guernica


Dec 20, 2011, 8:59 PM
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Best harness go route setting???
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I just got hired on at my local climbing gym and have been learning to set routes. The harness I currently have is a black diamond (unsure on model) that is great for climbing in but is killing me while setting routes. The part that is causing pain are the leg loops, if this is something I'm just going to have to get used to that's fine but if I have a better option I would love to hear about them.

Thanks


TarHeelEMT


Dec 20, 2011, 9:55 PM
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Re: [guernica] Best harness go route setting??? [In reply to]
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I love my Misty Cadillac if I plan to hang.


Urban_Cowboy


Dec 21, 2011, 1:45 AM
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Get a big wall harness.


GeckoBat


Dec 21, 2011, 4:07 AM
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I've found that wider leg loops = comfort. Anything with loops wider than what you're using now would probably work...


rtwilli4


Dec 21, 2011, 4:29 AM
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Misty Cadillac is the best harness out there for free climbing mixed with hanging. They make the best harnesses, hands down. But for your purposes you could get anything with wide leg loops... Just go to stores and hang in them.

On second thought, why don't you ask the person who is teaching you how to set?


acorneau


Dec 21, 2011, 6:11 AM
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Re: [guernica] Best harness go route setting??? [In reply to]
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I have a Misty Cadillac but you should also consider the BD Big Gun, Metolius Waldo, Yates Big Wall or Shield.

Some folks use arborist or industrial rope work harnesses which offer more padding than climbing harnesses but are much more expensive and aren't really that great for regular climbing.

One more suggestion: do as much as you can from ladders and only hang in your harness when needed.

Good luck.


cardina16


Dec 21, 2011, 7:25 AM
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Sounds like a perfect application for a Bosun Chair

http://www.backcountry.com/black-diamond-bosuns-chair

I've never used one myself but seems ideal. That or one of the big wall harnesses people have suggested.


billcoe_


Dec 21, 2011, 8:01 AM
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Re: [guernica] Best harness go route setting??? [In reply to]
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guernica wrote:
I just got hired on at my local climbing gym and have been learning to set routes. The harness I currently have is a black diamond (unsure on model) that is great for climbing in but is killing me while setting routes. The part that is causing pain are the leg loops, if this is something I'm just going to have to get used to that's fine but if I have a better option I would love to hear about them.

Thanks

Misty Mountain Cadillac. The Waldo is more comfortable but it doesn't free climb quite as well due to the extra bulk. I'd add that you really should go to your local shoppe and test hang in a few. Really!


Partner j_ung


Dec 21, 2011, 8:43 AM
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Re: [guernica] Best harness go route setting??? [In reply to]
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guernica wrote:
I just got hired on at my local climbing gym and have been learning to set routes. The harness I currently have is a black diamond (unsure on model) that is great for climbing in but is killing me while setting routes. The part that is causing pain are the leg loops, if this is something I'm just going to have to get used to that's fine but if I have a better option I would love to hear about them.

Thanks

You want a Metolius Safe Tech—any model—for a variety of reasons. One, you can affect a variety of adjustments to customize the fit. There isn't a normal-bodied person on Earth that can't fit into one. Two, the gear loops are full strength, so when you're lugging buckets of holds and impact drivers all over the wall, you don't need to worry about a loop breaking and sending 20 lbs of plastic crashing to the floor. Oddly enough the full-strength everyplace feature of the harness also allows you to customize the position in which you hang. Over years of route setting, I found that if I clipped various tethers to a keeper strap or a gear loop, I could gain odd angles on bolts that I had to maintain with core strength otherwise.

Best harness I ever owned, and certainly the best out there for route setting. Somebody mentioned the Waldo above. That's one of them.

http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/harnesses.html


TarheelJD


Dec 21, 2011, 9:07 AM
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Re: [j_ung] Best harness go route setting??? [In reply to]
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I've got a waldo as my big wall harness and a Cadillac as my trad harness. You would be much happier with either one. Both harnesses cost around 100 bucks but the Cadillac would be more versatile as you would enjoy using it more than the waldo for free climbing. The Waldo is more comfortable hanging than the Caddy but they are both light years more comfortable than my BD momentum. Unless you would get big wall/aid use out of the waldo I would stick with the cadillac.

I can't speak to any of the other metolius harnesses but they all use the same adjustable rise system which has been really nice on my Waldo for getting the comfort to a maximum.


rsd212


Dec 21, 2011, 10:14 AM
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Re: [GeckoBat] Best harness go route setting??? [In reply to]
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GeckoBat wrote:
I've found that wider leg loops = comfort. Anything with loops wider than what you're using now would probably work...
My experience has been a bit different. I've noticed its not the loop width, but the edge bead (or lack of) that determines comfort. I've done multipitch with all hanging belays in my BD Chaos with no problems, but my Mammut with big beaded edges on the loops and waist belt just dig in and hurt.


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