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tequilaboom


Dec 21, 2011, 8:55 PM
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Equalette
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hey everyone!
I have a quick question regarding the Equalette anchor rigging setup. I've noticed that when I set one up (it is my preferred way to set up an anchor because it is redundant, and the forces are always well distributed amongst the arms (shelves) of the anchor.) However, I've noticed that when I set it up with 3 or 4 protection points, and move the power point from side to side, only 2 if the arms share equal loading, and not all of them. Is that normal and/or acceptable generally?

I of course understand that no anchor is perfect in every situation but was wondering if there is something i could do perhaps.

Thank you for the help!


surfstar


Dec 21, 2011, 10:04 PM
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Re: [tequilaboom] Equalette [In reply to]
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tequilaboom wrote:
and the forces are always well distributed amongst the arms (shelves) of the anchor.) ... only 2 if the arms share equal loading, and not all of them

You answered it already.


Kartessa


Dec 21, 2011, 10:22 PM
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Re: [tequilaboom] Equalette [In reply to]
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SRENE is kinda bullshit, you can have have an anchor that's always equalized or completely non-extending, not both.

It really depends on how you feel about shock-loading.


moose_droppings


Dec 21, 2011, 11:03 PM
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Re: [tequilaboom] Equalette [In reply to]
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tequilaboom wrote:
hey everyone!
I have a quick question regarding the Equalette anchor rigging setup. I've noticed that when I set one up (it is my preferred way to set up an anchor because it is redundant, and the forces are always well distributed amongst the arms (shelves) of the anchor.) However, I've noticed that when I set it up with 3 or 4 protection points, and move the power point from side to side, only 2 if the arms share equal loading, and not all of them. Is that normal and/or acceptable generally?

I of course understand that no anchor is perfect in every situation but was wondering if there is something i could do perhaps.

Thank you for the help!

Yes it's normal. Tie off your power point in the direction where you expect the load to come from as best you can.


LostinMaine


Dec 22, 2011, 2:59 AM
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Re: [tequilaboom] Equalette [In reply to]
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tequilaboom wrote:
hey everyone!
I have a quick question regarding the Equalette anchor rigging setup. I've noticed that when I set one up (it is my preferred way to set up an anchor because it is redundant, and the forces are always well distributed amongst the arms (shelves) of the anchor.) However, I've noticed that when I set it up with 3 or 4 protection points, and move the power point from side to side, only 2 if the arms share equal loading, and not all of them. Is that normal and/or acceptable generally?

I of course understand that no anchor is perfect in every situation but was wondering if there is something i could do perhaps.

Thank you for the help!

Without going into pros and cons of anchors and rehashing all of the redundancy vs. equalization wars...

Sure, there is something you can do if you are looking for better (not perfect) equalization. If one side of the equalette has two protection points, instead of fixed knot or hitch between them, attach a 'biner in the shelf knot and loop the anchor arm through the shelf knot 'biner. I'd upload a real picture if it wasn't before 6 AM here.

Having said that, true equalization is a fallacy and I'd highly recommend a redundant system forcing loads onto your best pieces rather than trying to equalize all of your anchor gear.
Attachments: equalette_arm.jpg (49.1 KB)


billl7


Dec 22, 2011, 5:28 AM
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Re: [moose_droppings] Equalette [In reply to]
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moose_droppings wrote:
Yes it's normal. Tie off your power point in the direction where you expect the load to come from as best you can.

I agree with moose although I'd say it a little differently ...

Adjust the cloves on the biners at the individual pieces of pro (i.e., tighten the leg that is too long). For example, if more slack is needed in the system, attach a sling to the biner on the most distant piece of pro and attach the anchor leg to a biner on the other end of that sling ... or if there are two pieces on that side join them with a sling and a sliding X and attach the anchor leg to the biner in the X.

Bill L

P.S. I used the equalette for over a year. Switched back to the knotted cordalette while continuing to emphasize bomber individual pieces.


(This post was edited by billl7 on Dec 22, 2011, 5:36 AM)


tequilaboom


Dec 22, 2011, 9:01 AM
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Re: [LostinMaine] Equalette [In reply to]
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Yes I have definitely seen that "carabiner in the middle " setup before. I'll play around with it some more to see what I can do.

Thanks for everyone's help - this clears things up!


Partner cracklover


Dec 22, 2011, 11:13 AM
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Re: [tequilaboom] Equalette [In reply to]
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tequilaboom wrote:
hey everyone!
I have a quick question regarding the Equalette anchor rigging setup. I've noticed that when I set one up (it is my preferred way to set up an anchor because it is redundant, and the forces are always well distributed amongst the arms (shelves) of the anchor.) However, I've noticed that when I set it up with 3 or 4 protection points, and move the power point from side to side, only 2 if the arms share equal loading, and not all of them. Is that normal and/or acceptable generally?

I of course understand that no anchor is perfect in every situation but was wondering if there is something i could do perhaps.

Thank you for the help!

Yes it's normal. It's also dumb.

[rant]
It's beyond me why JL ever tried to sell that idea without disclaimers when there are other equal or better configurations out there. I guess he didn't learn much from his first mistake.
[/rant]

GO


tequilaboom


Dec 22, 2011, 11:22 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Equalette [In reply to]
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Could you provide a link or at least a name for the methods you are talking about?


Partner cracklover


Dec 22, 2011, 12:32 PM
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Re: [tequilaboom] Equalette [In reply to]
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tequilaboom wrote:
Could you provide a link or at least a name for the methods you are talking about?

OK, but you asked for it...

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...w_flat;post=1306133;

GO


moose_droppings


Dec 22, 2011, 1:03 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Equalette [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
tequilaboom wrote:
Could you provide a link or at least a name for the methods you are talking about?

OK, but you asked for it...

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...w_flat;post=1306133;

GO




tolman_paul


Dec 22, 2011, 3:13 PM
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Re: [tequilaboom] Equalette [In reply to]
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What I find curious is how on rc there are so many, many threads and arguments regarding equaliziting anchors, equalettes etc ad naseum. Yet there are rarely any threads regarding how to place bomber pro and how to identify bomber pro, as well as how to know when a placement is questionable or provides purely psychological protection.

A competent leader can place two bomber pieces, use a clove hitch and/or butterfly knot and have his partner 1/2 way up the pitch while the noob is fiddling and worrying about how to equalize his 3 or 4 questionable pieces.

Focus on the important stuff and keep your system as simple as possible. Overly complicated approaches hide the real risks, they don't reduce or eliminate them.


billl7


Dec 22, 2011, 5:11 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Equalette [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
[rant]
It's beyond me why JL ever tried to sell that idea without disclaimers when there are other equal or better configurations out there. I guess he didn't learn much from his first mistake.
[/rant]

His first mistake was unrelated: Cool
The Only Blasphemy

cracklover wrote:
tequilaboom wrote:
Could you provide a link or at least a name for the methods you are talking about?

OK, but you asked for it...

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...w_flat;post=1306133;

GO

That's not much of a reference. A lot of rigs were tossed onto the pages of that thread, good and bad. Consider Connally's post of the double un-knotted cordelettes.

But "other equal or better configures"? Maybe. It depends. A bunch equalized to a better degree I'd say but lacked overall redundancy - not better given the typical audience for an anchor book. And I recall few to no posts of actual testing of said rigs.

Bill L.

P.S. As I recall, John's book was started first and the majority was done. Then the thread started. There was probably some unexpected co-evolution for a while. Then the thread carried on after the book was finished as far as the author was concerned.


bearbreeder


Dec 22, 2011, 9:28 PM
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Re: [tolman_paul] Equalette [In reply to]
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tolman_paul wrote:
What I find curious is how on rc there are so many, many threads and arguments regarding equaliziting anchors, equalettes etc ad naseum. Yet there are rarely any threads regarding how to place bomber pro and how to identify bomber pro, as well as how to know when a placement is questionable or provides purely psychological protection.

A competent leader can place two bomber pieces, use a clove hitch and/or butterfly knot and have his partner 1/2 way up the pitch while the noob is fiddling and worrying about how to equalize his 3 or 4 questionable pieces.

Focus on the important stuff and keep your system as simple as possible. Overly complicated approaches hide the real risks, they don't reduce or eliminate them.

amen


billl7


Dec 23, 2011, 3:08 AM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Equalette [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
tolman_paul wrote:
What I find curious is how on rc there are so many, many threads and arguments regarding equaliziting anchors, equalettes etc ad naseum. Yet there are rarely any threads regarding how to place bomber pro and how to identify bomber pro, as well as how to know when a placement is questionable or provides purely psychological protection.

A competent leader can place two bomber pieces, use a clove hitch and/or butterfly knot and have his partner 1/2 way up the pitch while the noob is fiddling and worrying about how to equalize his 3 or 4 questionable pieces.

Focus on the important stuff and keep your system as simple as possible. Overly complicated approaches hide the real risks, they don't reduce or eliminate them.

amen
+1


avalon420


Jan 26, 2012, 6:46 PM
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Re: [billl7] Equalette [In reply to]
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billl7 wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
tolman_paul wrote:
What I find curious is how on rc there are so many, many threads and arguments regarding equaliziting anchors, equalettes etc ad naseum. Yet there are rarely any threads regarding how to place bomber pro and how to identify bomber pro, as well as how to know when a placement is questionable or provides purely psychological protection.

A competent leader can place two bomber pieces, use a clove hitch and/or butterfly knot and have his partner 1/2 way up the pitch while ethe noob is fiddling and worrying about how to equalize his 3 or 4 questionable pieces.

Focus on the important stuff and keep your system as simple as possible. Overly complicated approaches hide the real risks, they don't reduce or eliminate them.

amen
+1
well.....we're waiting. Well not really, I learned by spending a bit of time walking around the cliff w/ an enormous rack & a long sling (go ahead i know ya'll gonna') sticking everything I had in every thing I could (continue). The ones I thought were good & the ones I thought were bad. Bouncing up and down to see wich ones blew. Once I had a good idear, off I went & well, so far I've survived the learning curve. SOME SHNIT U JUST CAN'T LEARN ON Z INTER-WEB. Climb safe c:


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