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Return to Climbing after Tennis Elbow
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Dec 24, 2011, 11:34 AM
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Registered: Dec 24, 2011
Posts: 2

Return to Climbing after Tennis Elbow
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After reading most of the relevant forum posts that I could find and reviewing the section in Training For Climbing I determined that I was beginning to experience tennis elbow a few weeks ago. I first noticed minor pain after climbing about 3 and a half weeks ago. After feeling increased pain shortly after my last session I decided to take the last 2 weeks off and would like some information about how I should proceed from here.

It looks like this can take anywhere from weeks to months to heal and I want to climb ASAP, but I don't want to rush it and force an even longer break due to re-injury. When the pain was at it's worst (2 weeks ago) I could barely straighten my arm the last 20-30 degrees. Now my arm feels about 90% better and the pain isn't really noticeable until the last few degrees or when trying to slightly flex my tricep.

I think that before I get back into actual climbing I need to continue to rest and stretch and then eventually move into some reverse wrist curls (I was dumb/lazy and didn't do these before). Do you agree with this plan? How will I know when I should start the reverse wrist curls and when I can start climbing again? Should I wait until I feel absolutely no pain (even when flexing my tricep) before I start weight training?

What are your views on the bands for tennis elbow? To me they seems like they just mask the pain so that you can continue doing what you want without risk of further injury or pain. Would the band be a good idea during the rest period or maybe when I return to climbing? I don't want to get dependent on the band, but if it'll prevent me from hurting myself the first few times back on the wall then it might be worth it.

Once I finally get back to the gym what do you recommend? I was thinking no dynos, no overhangs and climbing a few grades below what I was doing before. I'm thinking that it'll take at least 2-3 weeks for me to get back to where I was before?

If you made it through the entire post or read enough to give good feedback, thank you! In case anyone is wondering I've been climbing for about 5 months and was going 2-3 times per week towards the end.

Thanks for your help!


Dec 25, 2011, 9:53 AM
Post #2 of 2 (1082 views)

Registered: Feb 10, 2008
Posts: 510

Re: [JDM] Return to Climbing after Tennis Elbow [In reply to]
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pushups, yoga and tricep exercises helped me.
The band masked the pain but didn't prevent further injury.
try to be patient and think about the long term so you don't hurt yourself to the point of no return.
Oh and doing all pulling motions with my elbows in towards the body as opposed to all chicken winged out also helped, good luck

Forums : Climbing Information : Injury Treatment and Prevention


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