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trisgo
Dec 24, 2011, 11:47 AM
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Registered: Aug 3, 2005
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Hey all,
Me and a friend might be taking a trip out to Lumpy Ridge sometime between March and June. We're not the most experienced team and want to really take our time without someone else standing behind us tapping their foot. We're looking at some of the 5.6 on Sundance. Is there a time where there's not so many people or a 5.6 route that doesn't get a lot of traffic?
Peace
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dwise
Dec 24, 2011, 3:08 PM
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Registered: Jan 1, 2004
Posts: 190
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The only time I've seen sundance crowded is when an Amga class wasin session there. Usually the crowds are for kors flake and/or main liner. You might be racing more against the weather. Expect afternoon thunderstorms by about 1 pm.
Sundance has a lengthy approach and a serious descent. Based on your comment regarding your experience level, you may want to start on some routes with shorter approaches and easier descents: the left book, batman and robin, magical chrome plated enema syringe, etc.
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trisgo
Jan 25, 2012, 6:04 AM
Post #3 of 4
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Registered: Aug 3, 2005
Posts: 76
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It looks like the dates are set in stone. We're going to be coming out there from May 20th-26th. These are the routes we were looking at:
Batman & Robin
Observatory
Tennis Shoe Tango
Left Standard
Last Gasp
Pin/Sky route
I know Batman & Robin get pretty busy. Your thoughts on the other routes? Hopefully something more secluded and less crowed so we can take our time and enjoy the view sort of speak.
Peace
-Matt
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dwise
Jan 28, 2012, 6:16 AM
Post #4 of 4
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Registered: Jan 1, 2004
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Weather may be the only issue. It could be great, or you may have a bit of rain (or even snow still). Expect cold nights and pleasant days.
Batman and Robin is good. Shoot for doing it on a weekday as there may be others on it on a weekend. Observatory is a remote crag, so I wouldn't expect anyone else on it. Haven't climbed it, so can't give you any specific beta. Last Gasp: Sundance Buttress is a serious crag. The approach is long, the routes are long and the route finding is tricky on that section of the buttress. Expect to not know where you are and possibly end up off route. The descent is also long and confusing the first time. You'll have to make 1-2 short rappels and scramble a long way down scree. I generally only recommend routes on Sundance if you and your partner are experienced and comfortable with self rescue and/or retreating in case of bad weather (expect storms in early afternoon). Pin Route: It's been a long time since I've been on the Owls, but I seem to recall the descent being tricky and involved, but the route is fun and the approach short. The other routes I am not too familiar with.
Since you're arriving at the end of a weekend/beginning of the week, I would start with Batman and Robin to get a feel for the climbing and the place. Save Sundance for the end of the week when you know the weather and are a bit more acclimated and climbing efficiently. The Left Book is another great place to start. The routes (Hiatus, White Whale and the Dog are all great) are fairly casual, well protected (except the last pitch of Ten Years After--it's easy to get mixed up and wander from Beelzebub and end up on a 5.9X section...). Plus, the descent off of the left book is uber easy. The approach is fairly strenuous, but not too bad.
Sounds like you have a great trip lined up! Have fun!
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