|
|
|
|
verticalTunes
Dec 26, 2011, 12:52 AM
Post #1 of 18
(6315 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 11, 2011
Posts: 4
|
As a newer climber of about 4 months, I recently purchased my first pair of climbing shoes. I mostly focus on bouldering problems so I bought a more aggressive pair. They're 1.5 sizes down sized, but are unlined leather so I'm hoping they stretch some. Ive had them for about two weeks now and been pretty intentional about stretching them out which is slowly getting better. Not sure if they're really great for a beginner, but eventually I wont be one (some day...)! Ive heard from people who are sure they're too tight for me, and Ive heard from people who are sure that they're perfectly fitted. This seems to be highly subjective. Im still hoping for some more stretch, but a new thought came into my head as well (considering the fact that some people have much more aggro shoes than myself)...
1. Shoes stretch. Fact
2... Should I expect my feet to also develop tolerances to tightly fitted shoes via calluses and/or foot strengthening?
I have been climbing in my tight shoes and also in larger shoes switching between the two to try to get used to them.
|
|
|
|
|
Urban_Cowboy
Dec 26, 2011, 1:12 AM
Post #2 of 18
(6304 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2009
Posts: 219
|
I'd be surprised if you are getting much benefit of an aggressive climbing shoe as a beginner. Shoe size varies by manufacturer, so it may or may not really be 1.5 sizes smaller than your normal size. A size and a half is quite a bit; they must be painful.
|
|
|
|
|
Co1urzz
Dec 26, 2011, 1:28 AM
Post #3 of 18
(6298 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2011
Posts: 32
|
ive been downsizing my shoes for years, and im paying the price, my big toes are turned in ever so slightly, i have callouses on my toes from where they hit inside the undersized shoe, and i can no longer stand on my tippy toes. get a shoe that is snug but still lets you use your toes.
|
|
|
|
|
Kartessa
Dec 26, 2011, 2:29 AM
Post #4 of 18
(6273 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2008
Posts: 7362
|
Soft/thin-soled aggressive shoes are useless to a beginner. Sizing them too small is silly too.
You're new, you need a stiff or at least thick soled shoe that's relatively flat and fitting snugly but not painfully. There's a reason that many experienced climbers also buy simple shoes, because they work. Aggressive bouldering shoes are for short bouts of aggressive bouldering.
Remember this in 6 weeks when you've blown through the toes of your fancy shoes and need to buy a new pair.
|
|
|
|
|
rhythm164
Dec 26, 2011, 3:35 AM
Post #5 of 18
(6254 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 28, 2005
Posts: 964
|
yea man, you're not really going to be able to reap the benefits of an aggressive high performance shoe until you've learned how to climb. Luck for you, you're footwork is likely so terrible you'll get about 3 months out of your investment before you've destroyed them (no offense, everyones footwork is that bad when they start out). You want some advice? Get yourself a pair of 5.10 Moccasyms (or the like), these shoes are soft and relatively unsupportive, you'll not only build up the strength in the muscles in your feet, but you'll start to learn to be more precise with your footwork, and the shoes can be found relatively cheap online, so you wont soil your 150 dollar downturned crush machines with man tears when you realize you had them for 6 weeks and they're falling apart. best of luck with your endeavors.
|
|
|
|
|
verticalTunes
Dec 26, 2011, 3:54 AM
Post #6 of 18
(6245 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 11, 2011
Posts: 4
|
Yeah, all those thoughts have been popping in my head. Ive already spent some good money on those shoes (They're Scarpa Instinct) and Im pretty sure Ill be stuck with them for some time. My thoughts are Ill probably get some more comfortable shoes as Im really not used to a downturned. In the future Ill probs come back to my Scarpas when I can climb a little more than V4's... Perhaps in addition to my feet being a little bit more adjusted, they may last longer after footwork gets better too...
|
|
|
|
|
redonkulus
Dec 26, 2011, 4:06 AM
Post #7 of 18
(6235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 2, 2010
Posts: 216
|
rhythm164 wrote: so you wont soil your 150 dollar downturned crush machines with man tears
I like you.
|
|
|
|
|
NJSlacker
Dec 26, 2011, 3:08 PM
Post #8 of 18
(6122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2008
Posts: 212
|
Wear a size that isn't painful to you. I wore a full size too small for 4 months of very active climbing and paid the price with ingrown toenails.
Like so many other people said, go grab a cheap pair of shoes, you shouldn't be paying more than $50. Put the aggro shoes on the shelf and beat the hell out of the cheap ones until you're ready for them.
|
|
|
|
|
Kartessa
Dec 26, 2011, 5:28 PM
Post #9 of 18
(6104 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2008
Posts: 7362
|
verticalTunes wrote: Yeah, all those thoughts have been popping in my head. Ive already spent some good money on those shoes (They're Scarpa Instinct) and Im pretty sure Ill be stuck with them for some time. My thoughts are Ill probably get some more comfortable shoes as Im really not used to a downturned. In the future Ill probs come back to my Scarpas when I can climb a little more than V4's... Perhaps in addition to my feet being a little bit more adjusted, they may last longer after footwork gets better too...
So are you saying that you're sticking with these or replacing them for the time being?
|
|
|
|
|
verticalTunes
Dec 26, 2011, 5:37 PM
Post #10 of 18
(6101 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 11, 2011
Posts: 4
|
Id get rid of them if I had a good opportunity to, but Im not too concerned about it. At the least though, I plan on getting more multi-pitch shoe and saving the Scarpas for the future when my feet toughen up. I dont feel like its entirely a waste of money cuz Im sure Ill build up to them later...
|
|
|
|
|
Kartessa
Dec 26, 2011, 5:58 PM
Post #11 of 18
(6093 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2008
Posts: 7362
|
Lots of good multi-pitch in Michigan eh?
Just get simple shoes that suit your needs right now.
|
|
|
|
|
binrat
Dec 26, 2011, 6:10 PM
Post #12 of 18
(6089 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2006
Posts: 1155
|
Kartessa wrote: Lots of good multi-pitch in Michigan eh? Just get simple shoes that suit your needs right now.
|
|
|
|
|
verticalTunes
Dec 26, 2011, 7:12 PM
Post #13 of 18
(6079 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 11, 2011
Posts: 4
|
haha. Red river gorge in KY
|
|
|
|
|
Kartessa
Dec 26, 2011, 7:20 PM
Post #14 of 18
(6077 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2008
Posts: 7362
|
verticalTunes wrote: haha. Red river gorge in KY
Thank you.
I've been waiting for the opportune moment to say "you're a fucking moron"
|
|
|
|
|
TarHeelEMT
Dec 26, 2011, 9:44 PM
Post #15 of 18
(6041 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 20, 2009
Posts: 724
|
I got 5.10 coyotes when I first started climbing 7 years ago. They're still my favorite shoe.
Also, the rubber doesn't really stretch - most of the stretch is in the upper fabric. I never expect to get much in the way of length stretch.
|
|
|
|
|
tH1e-swiN1e
Dec 26, 2011, 9:56 PM
Post #16 of 18
(6039 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 28, 2011
Posts: 192
|
As a beginner comfort should be your focus. Shoes you could be in all day.
The downsizing is all preference. I know people who dont do it at all, others who are drastic. I personally wear a 45 street and a 41 in my Solutions.
|
|
|
|
|
GeckoBat
Dec 27, 2011, 12:01 AM
Post #17 of 18
(6023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2011
Posts: 46
|
I was fortunate to have met some very helpful climbing friends when I first started climbing many years ago. They told me that footwork was something to really work on so I devoted much of my time to laser like precision and not to look away from my foot placement until I was absolutely positive that it was the optimal placement. This prevented me from "blowing through" the toes of my new shoes.
It's important to find a pair of shoes that you'll enjoy climbing and bouldering in. The advice I give to new climbers is, "snug to the point of being tight when you first put them on at the beginning of the session but not tight to the point that they're painful". If they're painful, you won't find it comfortable to use your feet in the manner that will help you ascend (eg. smear, front point, edge, hook). If you can spend the whole session walking around in them, climbing, belaying and not take them off, then I would suggest that you could have gone down at least 1/2 a size.
Over time, your feet get stronger. It's that journey that 's sometimes uncomfortable until your feet develop.
(This post was edited by GeckoBat on Dec 27, 2011, 12:07 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
acorneau
Dec 27, 2011, 2:25 AM
Post #18 of 18
(6003 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
|
Kartessa wrote: verticalTunes wrote: haha. Red river gorge in KY Thank you. I've been waiting for the opportune moment to say "you're a fucking moron"
Damn, that's cold.
|
|
|
|
|
|
