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verticalTunes


Dec 25, 2011, 4:52 PM
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Foot Strengthening
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As a newer climber of about 4 months, I recently purchased my first pair of climbing shoes. I mostly focus on bouldering problems so I bought a more aggressive pair. They're 1.5 sizes down sized, but are unlined leather so I'm hoping they stretch some. Ive had them for about two weeks now and been pretty intentional about stretching them out which is slowly getting better. Not sure if they're really great for a beginner, but eventually I wont be one (some day...)! Ive heard from people who are sure they're too tight for me, and Ive heard from people who are sure that they're perfectly fitted. This seems to be highly subjective. Im still hoping for some more stretch, but a new thought came into my head as well (considering the fact that some people have much more aggro shoes than myself)...

1. Shoes stretch. Fact
2... Should I expect my feet to also develop tolerances to tightly fitted shoes via calluses and/or foot strengthening?

I have been climbing in my tight shoes and also in larger shoes switching between the two to try to get used to them.


Urban_Cowboy


Dec 25, 2011, 5:12 PM
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Re: [verticalTunes] Foot Strengthening [In reply to]
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I'd be surprised if you are getting much benefit of an aggressive climbing shoe as a beginner. Shoe size varies by manufacturer, so it may or may not really be 1.5 sizes smaller than your normal size. A size and a half is quite a bit; they must be painful.


Co1urzz


Dec 25, 2011, 5:28 PM
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Re: [verticalTunes] Foot Strengthening [In reply to]
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ive been downsizing my shoes for years, and im paying the price, my big toes are turned in ever so slightly, i have callouses on my toes from where they hit inside the undersized shoe, and i can no longer stand on my tippy toes. get a shoe that is snug but still lets you use your toes.


Kartessa


Dec 25, 2011, 6:29 PM
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Re: [verticalTunes] Foot Strengthening [In reply to]
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Soft/thin-soled aggressive shoes are useless to a beginner. Sizing them too small is silly too.

You're new, you need a stiff or at least thick soled shoe that's relatively flat and fitting snugly but not painfully. There's a reason that many experienced climbers also buy simple shoes, because they work. Aggressive bouldering shoes are for short bouts of aggressive bouldering.

Remember this in 6 weeks when you've blown through the toes of your fancy shoes and need to buy a new pair.


rhythm164


Dec 25, 2011, 7:35 PM
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Re: [verticalTunes] Foot Strengthening [In reply to]
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yea man, you're not really going to be able to reap the benefits of an aggressive high performance shoe until you've learned how to climb. Luck for you, you're footwork is likely so terrible you'll get about 3 months out of your investment before you've destroyed them (no offense, everyones footwork is that bad when they start out). You want some advice? Get yourself a pair of 5.10 Moccasyms (or the like), these shoes are soft and relatively unsupportive, you'll not only build up the strength in the muscles in your feet, but you'll start to learn to be more precise with your footwork, and the shoes can be found relatively cheap online, so you wont soil your 150 dollar downturned crush machines with man tears when you realize you had them for 6 weeks and they're falling apart. best of luck with your endeavors.


verticalTunes


Dec 25, 2011, 7:54 PM
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Re: [verticalTunes] Foot Strengthening [In reply to]
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Yeah, all those thoughts have been popping in my head. Ive already spent some good money on those shoes (They're Scarpa Instinct) and Im pretty sure Ill be stuck with them for some time. My thoughts are Ill probably get some more comfortable shoes as Im really not used to a downturned. In the future Ill probs come back to my Scarpas when I can climb a little more than V4's... Perhaps in addition to my feet being a little bit more adjusted, they may last longer after footwork gets better too...


redonkulus


Dec 25, 2011, 8:06 PM
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Re: [rhythm164] Foot Strengthening [In reply to]
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rhythm164 wrote:
so you wont soil your 150 dollar downturned crush machines with man tears

I like you.


NJSlacker


Dec 26, 2011, 7:08 AM
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Re: [redonkulus] Foot Strengthening [In reply to]
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Wear a size that isn't painful to you. I wore a full size too small for 4 months of very active climbing and paid the price with ingrown toenails.

Like so many other people said, go grab a cheap pair of shoes, you shouldn't be paying more than $50. Put the aggro shoes on the shelf and beat the hell out of the cheap ones until you're ready for them.


Kartessa


Dec 26, 2011, 9:28 AM
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Re: [verticalTunes] Foot Strengthening [In reply to]
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verticalTunes wrote:
Yeah, all those thoughts have been popping in my head. Ive already spent some good money on those shoes (They're Scarpa Instinct) and Im pretty sure Ill be stuck with them for some time. My thoughts are Ill probably get some more comfortable shoes as Im really not used to a downturned. In the future Ill probs come back to my Scarpas when I can climb a little more than V4's... Perhaps in addition to my feet being a little bit more adjusted, they may last longer after footwork gets better too...

So are you saying that you're sticking with these or replacing them for the time being?


verticalTunes


Dec 26, 2011, 9:37 AM
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Re: [Kartessa] Foot Strengthening [In reply to]
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Id get rid of them if I had a good opportunity to, but Im not too concerned about it. At the least though, I plan on getting more multi-pitch shoe and saving the Scarpas for the future when my feet toughen up. I dont feel like its entirely a waste of money cuz Im sure Ill build up to them later...


Kartessa


Dec 26, 2011, 9:58 AM
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Lots of good multi-pitch in Michigan eh?

Just get simple shoes that suit your needs right now.


binrat


Dec 26, 2011, 10:10 AM
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Re: [Kartessa] Foot Strengthening [In reply to]
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Kartessa wrote:
Lots of good multi-pitch in Michigan eh?
Just get simple shoes that suit your needs right now.
Must be a hidden secret.


verticalTunes


Dec 26, 2011, 11:12 AM
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haha. Red river gorge in KY


Kartessa


Dec 26, 2011, 11:20 AM
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verticalTunes wrote:
haha. Red river gorge in KY

Thank you.

I've been waiting for the opportune moment to say "you're a fucking moron"


TarHeelEMT


Dec 26, 2011, 1:44 PM
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Re: [verticalTunes] Foot Strengthening [In reply to]
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I got 5.10 coyotes when I first started climbing 7 years ago. They're still my favorite shoe.

Also, the rubber doesn't really stretch - most of the stretch is in the upper fabric. I never expect to get much in the way of length stretch.


tH1e-swiN1e


Dec 26, 2011, 1:56 PM
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Re: [TarHeelEMT] Foot Strengthening [In reply to]
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As a beginner comfort should be your focus. Shoes you could be in all day.

The downsizing is all preference. I know people who dont do it at all, others who are drastic. I personally wear a 45 street and a 41 in my Solutions.


GeckoBat


Dec 26, 2011, 4:01 PM
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Re: [verticalTunes] Foot Strengthening [In reply to]
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I was fortunate to have met some very helpful climbing friends when I first started climbing many years ago. They told me that footwork was something to really work on so I devoted much of my time to laser like precision and not to look away from my foot placement until I was absolutely positive that it was the optimal placement. This prevented me from "blowing through" the toes of my new shoes.

It's important to find a pair of shoes that you'll enjoy climbing and bouldering in. The advice I give to new climbers is, "snug to the point of being tight when you first put them on at the beginning of the session but not tight to the point that they're painful". If they're painful, you won't find it comfortable to use your feet in the manner that will help you ascend (eg. smear, front point, edge, hook). If you can spend the whole session walking around in them, climbing, belaying and not take them off, then I would suggest that you could have gone down at least 1/2 a size.

Over time, your feet get stronger. It's that journey that 's sometimes uncomfortable until your feet develop.


(This post was edited by GeckoBat on Dec 26, 2011, 4:07 PM)


acorneau


Dec 26, 2011, 6:25 PM
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Re: [Kartessa] Foot Strengthening [In reply to]
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Kartessa wrote:
verticalTunes wrote:
haha. Red river gorge in KY

Thank you.

I've been waiting for the opportune moment to say "you're a fucking moron"


Damn, that's cold.

Unimpressed


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