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Lead/Sport Climbing training
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vstargame


Jan 2, 2012, 5:46 PM
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Registered: Apr 27, 2009
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Lead/Sport Climbing training
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So i been climbing for little over a year now and i all i have done is been bouldering (all gym). About 2 months ago I was introduced to top roping at our local gym by a friend...I fell in love with it. Got my own harness and later got lead climbing certified at the gym. I really enjoy and prefer doing lead climbing rather than bouldering unfortunately only 1 or 2 others enjoy top roping and lead climbing. At my gym all people do is boulder i can never get people to lead or top rope. The top rope at our gym is very short not tall at all and most routes are very easy so i understand while many reg climbers dont wana do it. Our only really lead climbing is the ceiling which is pretty cool, you start of on one side of the building and then go up the ceiling to the other side. I love doing this but still hard to find people to do this other than my friend. I want to start training for sport climbing. Anyone have tips on training designed for sport climbing. My and my friend can only meet up once a week. I was thinking maybe traversing the gym? And prob def boulder problems because that gets you stronger too. any suggestions for training designed for lead/sport would be greatly appriciated also are you suppose to eat before climbing to have energy?


agdavis


Jan 3, 2012, 6:36 AM
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Registered: Jan 7, 2009
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Re: [vstargame] Lead/Sport Climbing training [In reply to]
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Work on your breathing...

Unimpressed


mr.tastycakes


Jan 3, 2012, 6:58 AM
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Re: [vstargame] Lead/Sport Climbing training [In reply to]
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Try to find more lead/TR partners. My local gym is mostly bouldering too, but I can find partners for roped climbing with a little effort. Try to meet 2-3 new people every time you go and ask them if they'd like to lead or TR...gotta build up your list of partners.

If that isn't practical for whatever reason (i.e. you go on off-times when the gym is nearly empty, the TR routes suck, you really can't find anyone to rope up with) then you can try ARC traverses for aerobic endurance training and 4x4's (or 6x6's or 6x8's or any permutation you can dream up) for anaerobic endurance training. Check out the book "the self coached climber" if you're really interested in understanding training for climbing...lots of advice you'll get on this site is random/unorganized, possibly plain wrong or potentially injurious, and you never know if the person giving it can climb worth a damn (yes, that includes me).

Good luck.


ghisino


Jan 12, 2012, 4:42 PM
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Re: [vstargame] Lead/Sport Climbing training [In reply to]
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boulder traverses and circuits are ok if you really can't tie in.

they are even better if you have a specific focus when you do them.

if your objective is becoming a good sport climber outdoors, your priorities should be:
-learning to save energy on easier moves.
-learning to choose your footholds and body position quickly, almost uncosciously. Allow yourself every foothold.
-learning to shift between relaxed and aggressive climbing and viceversa.

if you want to get strong on indoor lead climbs/comps:
-learning to be precise when climbing fast.
-building power endurance, ie the physical ability to climb 10-20 hard moves of steady intensity


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