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USnavy
Feb 14, 2011, 1:03 PM
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Awhile back someone showed me a faster way to climb aid without using traditional style daisys. Basically I will just copy and paste this over from Mountain Project as it perfectly explains this new way I learned:
Requires:
* Two ladders
* One adjustable daisy
* One quickdraw (or short loop, girth hitched) at the waist.
Starting from the ground:
* Place piece
* Clip ladder to piece
* Clip adjustable daisy to ladder
* Climb up ladder until piece is at your waist (optionally tightening daisy if desire)
* Clip quickdraw into piece, hang on that sucker
* Top step as desired
* Place high new piece
* Clip other ladder to new piece
* Clip adjustable daisy (now available, since you are hanging on the draw) to high ladder
* Test piece as desired. If it blows, you won't lose the ladder since it is connected by the adjustable daisy. And odds are you are still clipped into the last piece with your waist quickdraw, so you aren't taking a fall.
* Transition to new piece+ladder - unclipping your waist quickdraw if you haven't already.
* Retrieve old ladder, clip rope in behind you (if you haven't already)
* Continue
http://mountainproject.com/...ig_nirvana/106704262
So what is the best adjustable to use? I used the Yates when I first tried this. Not bad but its a bit heavy and I mainly climb C1 - C2 stuff, nothing too serious. I have been looking into the Metolius Easy Daisy as it seems easy to extend. But I have heard really bad things about it. So whats your take?
(This post was edited by USnavy on Feb 14, 2011, 1:04 PM)
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wolfdog
Jul 5, 2011, 3:20 AM
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Yates adjustable are the best daisys for wall climbing in my opinion. Petzl quick fix is very lightweight and good for making a few moves but not many and they are only rated to like 400 lbs or something. Metolius is to complicated for me, to many straps and buckles.
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SirStefan
Dec 8, 2011, 11:27 PM
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Yates are the burliest and the best.
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USnavy
Dec 9, 2011, 5:29 AM
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Well I guess I can report back on this thread. I never used the Petzl one but I used the Metolius and the Yates are hands down the best. Not being able to release the daisy under a load makes things a lot harder. The extra weight of the steel buckles is worth it for the ability to be able to release the daisy.
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Durin
Dec 30, 2011, 8:19 PM
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To me, it depends on what you're trying to aid. If you're trying to fly up the Nose, I find Metolius is the best. If you're trying to do some A4 horrorshow over a week, I think Yates can be better.
The fat steel buckles on the Yates daisies are very annoying when trying to jug quickly. The buckle swings around, and the hand on my lower jug keeps hitting the buckle on the higher jug. It's surprisingly painful and cuts me now and then. They're also bulky.
Being able to lower while weighted is nice, but not as important when you're on something not insanely steep.
Petzl daisies cinch up even more easily than the Metolius ones, but are even harder to release when weighted. On the plus side they are the simplest and lightest of the bunch.
My overall vote is Metolius. If you REALLY don't care about speed, then Yates will be more durable and beefy.
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xtrmecat
Jan 6, 2012, 4:06 AM
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The metolious units are easily modified, to eliminate the snags and twists. A pair of sidecutters removes the steel "unions" on the tails that hold them to the loaded strand. Huge improvement. One note of caution, and I am sure the unions are there to prevent this and nothing more, the ends can go through the buckle, like at the bivy. It has happened to me, no biggie, just rethread and pay attention.
Never used the Yates, and for a reason other than climbing. I have used tie downs built just like them for many years, and when aiding, saw no real use for that style buckle on a wall.
Releasing a Met under load is not doable, at least easily, but I just take enough of the load off to slacken them and all is well. Kind of a non issue in my personal experience.
Anyone still thinking rating on a daisy is an important deciding factor, probably should not be using a daisy.
Just my two cents, but have used the met units for over a half decade, worn out two sets, and on my third.
Next disclaimer, Durin is badass, and his mileage lately exceeds mine, so his wisdom should carry some serious weight.
Burly Bob
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styndall
Jan 6, 2012, 6:59 AM
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I really like my Yates daisies, but I've never used the Metolius.
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zeth01
Jan 13, 2012, 6:55 PM
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http://www.runoutcustoms.com/Daisy_Chains.html
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USnavy
Jan 15, 2012, 5:43 AM
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zeth01 wrote: http://www.runoutcustoms.com/Daisy_Chains.html
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moose_droppings
Jan 15, 2012, 6:14 AM
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USnavy wrote: Those guys look like a Yates knockoff, their products are almost completely identical. Are they affiliated with Yates, or are they just copying their product?
Really, three times to make it clickable?
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billcoe_
Mar 8, 2012, 9:02 PM
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The guys name is Luke Malatista out of Moab. He's an honest and honorable guy and he's not just "copying" others Navy. I haven't seen his daisies but the work I've seen is of the very highest quality. He has brought back the old A5 Hurricane handrill and improved the A5 bolt bag. That stuff was all but impossible to get since John Middendorf sold the company to Conrad.
We should support the guy IMO.
BTW, Fish also makes some high quality stuff, and he sells replacement webbing for his adjustable daisys. $5.00
http://www.fishproducts.com/...g/productlinefs.html
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donwanadi
Mar 12, 2012, 5:56 PM
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How bout a mini-traxion with 8mm cord. You get 2:1 mechanical advantage.
(You do with any adjustable but with a Yates that is all lost to friction)
You can 'winch your way up' in the words of PTPP.
(This post was edited by donwanadi on Mar 12, 2012, 9:03 PM)
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