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Ry_
Jan 6, 2012, 11:28 PM
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I seemed to have tweaked A3 sometime in the past few weeks. I can't seem to remember an acute onset, it has simply started to nag more and more.
Pain while climbing is usually minimal however the finger (middle) itself is quite stiff in the morning. The pulley itself is painful when subjected to significant, localized pressure. Flexion and extension are painless and the finger exhibits full range of motion.
Does anybody have any experience in this regard? Any idea as to the severity?
Thanks in advance for any insight. It is highly appreciated.
(This post was edited by Ry_ on Jan 6, 2012, 11:31 PM)
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superchuffer
Jan 7, 2012, 6:52 AM
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ice. warm up. repeat
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Player
Jan 7, 2012, 7:48 AM
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Doesn't sound too bad. If when you say "significant, localized pressure" you mean when climbing "bouldery" routes then I've had a couple finger injuries like this. I had plenty of the morning stiffness too. If it is just crimpers that hurt you may be able to climb, if you have discipline to do no crimping. I also toned down the intensity and only went to climb once or twice a week. If open hand grip is hurting, well I couldn't find a way but taking 4 weeks off to get that to heal, and then starting back up slowly.
If it hurts when your not climbing and just daily activities then I would definitely be more cautious.
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onceahardman
Jan 7, 2012, 8:49 AM
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Could be A3, could be capsule. You are describing a palpation test, that is, a test in which you are manually touching a structure. This is notoriously unreliable.
You have also described painless AROM. That is a good thing.
Do you have pain with resisted flexion and/or extension?
1) Stop poking it to test if it still hurts.
2) Keep it moving, lots of AROM.
3) Lay off the plastic holds for a while. Try rock climbing.
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jacobbelsher
Jan 7, 2012, 8:54 AM
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rest it for awhile, and be cautious. tape it. Sometimes when what you described happens to me, if I keep climbing on it, it gets worse and worse, then I end up having to take significant time off...
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Ry_
Jan 7, 2012, 12:19 PM
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There is no pain with resisted extension.
There is pain with resisted flexion when the PIP joint is flexed and the DIP joint is hyperextended. Otherwise, no.
Rockscaling around ON is out of the question for a little while. I had some semi-productive days this week, but the forecast is looking bleak.
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onceahardman
Jan 9, 2012, 3:46 AM
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Flexed PIP with extended DIP is kind of like a crimp position, so pulley injury is still not ruled out.
Most severe pulley injuries tend to be sudden onset and traumatic.
In any event, relative rest from crimping, and lots of motion are indicated.
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