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mild discomfort around medial epicondyle
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dave76


Jan 13, 2012, 3:17 PM
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Registered: Jul 5, 2005
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mild discomfort around medial epicondyle
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hi all,
I am a 5.10 climber and have climbed continuously for the last year and a half, after a few years of on-and-off climbing.
Last year I managed to get back to the level (5.10a) I was at in 2006, and I am now sending some 5.10d routes I am now back at my top

Recently, I've starting doing some fingerboard training (metolius 10-second program) on the days I do not climb.

However, I am afraid I went through it too hard, or possibly without proper warmup, as I started having some mild discomfort around the medial epicondyle (that of golfer's elbow).

I don't really have pain, but I had some mild discomfort after my second fingerboard session last sunday, and then today after a pretty intense climbing session.

Do you guys think it's golfer's elbow or is it just being tired? Anyone had these symptoms?

Obviously I am going to see my physician ASAP (monday probably) but in the meantime, I thought I'd ask here.


rhei


Jan 20, 2012, 2:54 PM
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Re: [dave76] mild discomfort around medial epicondyle [In reply to]
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Do a search on treating medial epicondylitis. There's been extensive discussion of it in this forum.

Here's one oft cited reference:
http://www.drjuliansaunders.com/...load_file/-/view/28/

The Metolius 10 minute program includes repeated pull ups. Consider eliminating those and focus on hanging (or maybe eliminate using a fingerboard altogether and work on preventative and recovery exercises for the forearm.) If you are going to continue with a hangboard, be careful not to fully extend so that your elbows lock. Maintain some tension throughout the hang, as if initiating a pull up.


dave76


Jan 20, 2012, 3:01 PM
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Re: [rhei] mild discomfort around medial epicondyle [In reply to]
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Hi,
ME was really what was worrying me. However, the pain subsided by itself the day after I posted. I saw my doctor anyway and it looks like it was just some benign pain, possibly resulting from improper warm up.

As for the 10-min program, I don't get why you suggest to eliminate pull ups. I thought ME was caused by excessive gripping.

thanks

Davide


rhei


Jan 20, 2012, 9:47 PM
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Re: [dave76] mild discomfort around medial epicondyle [In reply to]
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My comment regarding pull-ups comes from personal experience and the anecdotal experiences of other climbers I know. My suspicion is that the wrist muscles can be flexed or stressed in the pull-up motion,depending on how much swing at the wrist you permit, especially as you get tired. If there's more to it, perhaps one of the PT's who visit this site can chime in.

Glad you're feeling better.


(This post was edited by rhei on Jan 20, 2012, 9:48 PM)


dave76


Jan 21, 2012, 2:05 AM
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Re: [rhei] mild discomfort around medial epicondyle [In reply to]
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Interesting point. Probably, in this respect, it is good that I am using suspended rock rings and not a real fingerboard. Or is that worse?


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