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Placing gear in Sandstone
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yakker


Jan 13, 2012, 9:19 PM
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Placing gear in Sandstone
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Any tips or wisdom you could share?I've been comfortable and trust my gear placements on easy climbs and ready to start pushing it and falling on my gear instead of limiting myself.all my climbs are fa and see no traffic besides working them on toprope.give me some inspiration!


jacques


Jan 15, 2012, 5:12 AM
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Re: [yakker] Placing gear in Sandstone [In reply to]
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I am not good in kind of rock. I know that granite are very solid, like 4 000 to 80 000 Kg per square inches. Lime stone (calcaire) is around 2500 Kg per square inches. As the rope are dynamic, the maximum strenght generate is around 10 kilo newton or 1000 kg by the surface of your stopper. With a one inches stopper, you will have an impact forces of 1000 kg and it will hold in limestone. with a stopper of one quarter of inches, you will have 4000 kg by squares inches and the limestone will broke.
sandstone is weaker. Friends are not the better. As the contact surface is very small, very hight load are apply on the rock.


marc801


Jan 15, 2012, 9:23 AM
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Re: [yakker] Placing gear in Sandstone [In reply to]
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yakker wrote:
Any tips or wisdom you could share?I've been comfortable and trust my gear placements on easy climbs and ready to start pushing it and falling on my gear instead of limiting myself.all my climbs are fa and see no traffic besides working them on toprope.give me some inspiration!
The clarifying question is: what kind of sandstone and where? The Nuttall (sp?) of the New River Gorge is bulletproof hard and you can treat it like granite. The Fisher Towers in Utah are closer to consolidated mud than to rock. There's almost every range of softness in between.


Partner rgold


Jan 15, 2012, 10:18 AM
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Re: [yakker] Placing gear in Sandstone [In reply to]
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As Mark says, sandstone is all over the map. Probably the best thing to do is some extensive "ground school" work with the rock you'll be climbing. Make lots of placements and bounce test the hell out of them using dyneema slings. This should at least give you a sense of how likely it is that mechanically solid placements will break out.

Until you are pretty confident about the kinds of placements you have, you'll want to place a lot of gear, never put yourself in a position in which there is one piece between you and a groundfall, and generally stay away from run-out situations.


sandstone


Jan 15, 2012, 3:41 PM
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Re: [yakker] Placing gear in Sandstone [In reply to]
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Some more thoughts:

Sandstone is much weaker when wet.

Be careful of placements that are near an edge. I once had a stopper placement that was in a shallow (but not thin) crack fail in a fall when the edge of the crack sheared away. That was on good quality southern sandstone.

Placements that involve thin features (small knobs, thin ribs, flakes, etc.) are all to be treated with respect, because the feature can break away. Those same features in granite might be bomber.


sandstone


Jan 15, 2012, 6:00 PM
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Re: [yakker] Placing gear in Sandstone [In reply to]
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yakker wrote:
....give me some inspiration!

I just realized everything I said in my last post was a negative.

It is hands down my favorite type of stone. I like the way it feels, and how that can be very different from crag to crag. I like the endless varieties of moves it takes to climb it. And for me, since I grew up with it, it just feels like home.


styndall


Jan 15, 2012, 7:48 PM
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Re: [rgold] Placing gear in Sandstone [In reply to]
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rgold wrote:
As Mark says, sandstone is all over the map. Probably the best thing to do is some extensive "ground school" work with the rock you'll be climbing. Make lots of placements and bounce test the hell out of them using dyneema slings. This should at least give you a sense of how likely it is that mechanically solid placements will break out.

Until you are pretty confident about the kinds of placements you have, you'll want to place a lot of gear, never put yourself in a position in which there is one piece between you and a groundfall, and generally stay away from run-out situations.

Does Metolius still make those fat cams? I've got a couple of those, and I really like them.


bandycoot


Jan 15, 2012, 10:41 PM
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Re: [yakker] Placing gear in Sandstone [In reply to]
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Here's some relevant inspiration:

http://mountainproject.com/v/breech-baby/107437409

Jan 2nd my buddy and I just did an FA on lower quality sandstone. Ground up, on gear, onsight! We woke up to 15F and decided they were SENDIN TEMPS! Click the link for pictures we uploaded. Just make sure that there are at least two pieces between you and disaster and GO FOR IT!

Josh


yakker


Feb 17, 2012, 9:26 AM
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Re: [bandycoot] Placing gear in Sandstone [In reply to]
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Thanks for the replies.I dove into the confusing geology of this area,and still am.Starting to collect the ultralight fat cams for a little peace of mind and ready to send this shit choss pile.Nice send Josh and great pic.
i'll update this when I get the ffa


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