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Sore finger
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Krypt


Jan 15, 2012, 4:46 AM
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Registered: Jan 15, 2012
Posts: 6

Sore finger
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Hi new here & first post.

Recently got a fingerboard to help with grip & upper back/scapula strength & have noticed that my ring finger always seems to feel tender/bruised at the first joint just behind the nail, so much so I'm now having to have some time off as I don't want to make it any worse.

Any help appreciated in why this could be happening & what I can do to improve/speed up recovery off the area.

Krypt


onceahardman


Jan 15, 2012, 4:07 PM
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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
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Re: [Krypt] Sore finger [In reply to]
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Krypt wrote:
Hi new here & first post.

Recently got a fingerboard to help with grip & upper back/scapula strength & have noticed that my ring finger always seems to feel tender/bruised at the first joint just behind the nail, so much so I'm now having to have some time off as I don't want to make it any worse.

Any help appreciated in why this could be happening & what I can do to improve/speed up recovery off the area.

Krypt

You should not use a finger board for strengthening upper back and "scapula". (scapula is bone, BTW). A pullup bar would be more useful for strengthening the big pulling muscles I think you are talking about.

Save the finger board for finger specific work. You appear to now have applied tensile forces in excess of the tensile strength of your connective tissue. You are injured. You need to rest, but keep all the finger joints moving.


Krypt


Jan 22, 2012, 6:44 AM
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Registered: Jan 15, 2012
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Re: [onceahardman] Sore finger [In reply to]
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onceahardman wrote:
You should not use a finger board for strengthening upper back and "scapula". (scapula is bone, BTW). A pullup bar would be more useful for strengthening the big pulling muscles I think you are talking about.

Save the finger board for finger specific work. You appear to now have applied tensile forces in excess of the tensile strength of your connective tissue. You are injured. You need to rest, but keep all the finger joints moving.

I used the finger board because I was also looking to increase finger/grip strength with the intention of killing two birds with one stone. Looks like I've gone in a little above my station.

Fingers healing.

Thanks for replying.


climbs4fun
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Jan 22, 2012, 5:50 PM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2003
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Re: [crjanow] Sore finger [In reply to]
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Folks, inappropriate comments will be hidden. If you can't find your post, you know why.


Krypt


Jan 23, 2012, 5:40 AM
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Registered: Jan 15, 2012
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Re: [climbs4fun] Sore finger [In reply to]
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climbs4fun wrote:
Folks, inappropriate comments will be hidden. If you can't find your post, you know why.

If they were aimed at me & my "beginners mistakes" don't fret. Par for the course on forums when a newbie messes up.Wink


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