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scdance
Jan 14, 2012, 2:06 AM
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I recently got into climbing and didn't really know my limits until yesterday. I went climbing tuesday, then climbed again Thursday. The moment I started climbing thursday, i realized that I was not completely recuperated and still tight. But I kept climbing figuring it would just go away and I would be good as new. As I started bouldering my elbow really started hurting. It was hard to move at all and only felt better when I would rest it without putting any pressure of any kind on it. It hurts on the inside of the elbow and can't do pullups or anything without feeling the pains again.
Any suggestions on why this has happened and what I should do to get back to climbing as soon as possible?
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gojiclimber
Jan 14, 2012, 2:51 AM
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Lateral epicondylitis get use to it.
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scdance
Jan 14, 2012, 3:55 AM
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Just to be more clear, it's pain throughout my arm where the elbow is the epicenter of the pain. It hurts from maybe the middle of my bicep to the middle of my forearm and then slowly moves outwards both ways the more I climb. Still Tennis Elbow?
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gojiclimber
Jan 14, 2012, 3:43 PM
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Well I am no expert, but it could possibly still be. I believe the muscles begin to compensate for the tendon. As this is not there typical role, they to develop pain. My understanding is that tendon is actually stronger than the bone and the pain is the tendon stressing/pulling off the bone. My elbow pain extends into my bicep and triceps but not into my forearm.
For me only rest (2 weeks easily) then daily extensor and flexor stretches and ramping up to my pre injury climbing schedule seemed to work. If I go hard one day it still hurts.
(This post was edited by gojiclimber on Jan 14, 2012, 3:45 PM)
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scdance
Jan 15, 2012, 7:27 PM
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Ya, I will definitely do that. What would those stretches be that you would do for you arm? I will probably end up googling it, but it would still be nice to hear from someone else. Thanks so much for your help, gojiclimber.
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gojiclimber
Jan 15, 2012, 10:30 PM
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Just google tennis elbow stretches. Chances are once you recognize these stretches you will notice lots of people doing them as they stand around the crag. Just do the ones the feel like the put tension on the areas which are bothering you.
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onceahardman
Jan 16, 2012, 12:18 AM
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gojiclimber wrote: Well I am no expert, but it could possibly still be. I believe the muscles begin to compensate for the tendon. As this is not there typical role, they to develop pain. My understanding is that tendon is actually stronger than the bone and the pain is the tendon stressing/pulling off the bone. My elbow pain extends into my bicep and triceps but not into my forearm. For me only rest (2 weeks easily) then daily extensor and flexor stretches and ramping up to my pre injury climbing schedule seemed to work. If I go hard one day it still hurts.
This is pretty bad.
Muscle cannot "compensate for tendon". Muscle and tendon are two parts of the same thing.
It is possible for a tendon to avulse a piece of bone, but I've never seen it at the medial or lateral epicondyles.
To the OP, if you can find a good PT who is a manual therapist, there are some manual techniques that work well. You can also research "eccentric training", but it would help a lot if you could isolate exactly which muscles/tendons are involved, and restrict your training to those muscles.
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superchuffer
Jan 17, 2012, 7:41 PM
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flexbar.
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Ambit_Energy
Jan 21, 2012, 1:27 PM
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I think it's a muscle freeze that really hurts inside!
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