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jamesnater


Jan 17, 2012, 3:45 PM
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Highest Grades Climbed by Inexperienced Climbers
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Just out of curiosity...

What're the highest grades climbed by inexperienced climbers for Bouldering, Sport Climbing, Trad Climbing? (In this case, inexperienced = less than 1 year of climbing).

This question was brought up during a drinking sesh with a few buddies. Nobody knew. Figured you guys might.

And I'll be quite honest, I kind of want to know so I can set a goal to break those "records" before I hit 1 year of climbing. It's nothing TOO serious, it's just a personal goal/challenge I'd like to do for myself. It's probably a far-fetched goal, but still... I'm overly psyched so I just might do it lol.


agdavis


Jan 17, 2012, 5:15 PM
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jamesnater wrote:
Just out of curiosity...

What're the highest grades climbed by inexperienced climbers for Bouldering, Sport Climbing, Trad Climbing? (In this case, inexperienced = less than 1 year of climbing).

This question was brought up during a drinking sesh with a few buddies. Nobody knew. Figured you guys might.

And I'll be quite honest, I kind of want to know so I can set a goal to break those "records" before I hit 1 year of climbing. It's nothing TOO serious, it's just a personal goal/challenge I'd like to do for myself. It's probably a far-fetched goal, but still... I'm overly psyched so I just might do it lol.

Is this what the conversation was like?

http://www.xtranormal.com/...87/schralp-the-gnarr


fearlessclimber


Jan 17, 2012, 5:29 PM
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You could look it up in the climbing almanac you know...you can buy them at your local climbing gym titled "Hardest Climbs Sent in First Year at the Gym!". It's really an eye opening read.

Troll


jakedatc


Jan 17, 2012, 5:50 PM
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Dave Graham was climbing .14s within a year.

Daniel woods was climbing .14 when he was 14yrs old.

good luck noob.


potreroed


Jan 17, 2012, 7:33 PM
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I knew a guy who climbed a 13d sport route his first year.

Another friend of mine led a 5.6 trad route, on sight, his first day climbing.


blueeyedclimber


Jan 18, 2012, 8:19 AM
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jamesnater wrote:
Just out of curiosity...

What're the highest grades climbed by inexperienced climbers for Bouldering, Sport Climbing, Trad Climbing? (In this case, inexperienced = less than 1 year of climbing).

This question was brought up during a drinking sesh with a few buddies. Nobody knew. Figured you guys might.

And I'll be quite honest, I kind of want to know so I can set a goal to break those "records" before I hit 1 year of climbing. It's nothing TOO serious, it's just a personal goal/challenge I'd like to do for myself. It's probably a far-fetched goal, but still... I'm overly psyched so I just might do it lol.

I have no idea, but I thrashed my way up a 10b toprope within a month of climbing and thought I was awesome. The next day, I got shut down on a 5.9 and thought I sucked.

My point is, don't put too much emphasis on ANYTHING in your first year of climbing. You will have many ups and downs. Learn as much as you can, climb as much as you can, and continually adjust your goals according to your own progress.

Josh


Toast_in_the_Machine


Jan 18, 2012, 8:30 AM
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I bested my personal best within my first year of climbing. You can't best that.


jamesnater


Jan 20, 2012, 1:00 PM
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.14s... yeah fuck that, I'm not gonna be anywhere near that in a year.

Realistically I see my self leading up to .12s outside in a year max.

Either way, cool to know. Thanks.


surfstar


Jan 20, 2012, 2:16 PM
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jamesnater wrote:
Realistically I see my self leading up to .12s outside in a year max.

I see myself doing lots of awesome things in my head. Like, so awesome you couldn't realisticly see for yourself.


jamesnater


Jan 20, 2012, 3:17 PM
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surfstar wrote:
jamesnater wrote:
Realistically I see my self leading up to .12s outside in a year max.

I see myself doing lots of awesome things in my head. Like, so awesome you couldn't realisticly see for yourself.

Yeah yeah, whatever. In retrospect, I should have avoided such a noob question on an internet rock climbing forum. Regardless, I'm still obsessed with climbing. Got the answer I was looking for. Noted it. kthxbai.


agdavis


Jan 20, 2012, 5:42 PM
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jamesnater wrote:
surfstar wrote:
jamesnater wrote:
Realistically I see my self leading up to .12s outside in a year max.

I see myself doing lots of awesome things in my head. Like, so awesome you couldn't realisticly see for yourself.

Yeah yeah, whatever. In retrospect, I should have avoided such a noob question on an internet rock climbing forum. Regardless, I'm still obsessed with climbing. Got the answer I was looking for. Noted it. kthxbai.

And what answer was that?


Kartessa


Jan 20, 2012, 6:32 PM
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agdavis wrote:
jamesnater wrote:
surfstar wrote:
jamesnater wrote:
Realistically I see my self leading up to .12s outside in a year max.

I see myself doing lots of awesome things in my head. Like, so awesome you couldn't realisticly see for yourself.

Yeah yeah, whatever. In retrospect, I should have avoided such a noob question on an internet rock climbing forum. Regardless, I'm still obsessed with climbing. Got the answer I was looking for. Noted it. kthxbai.

And what answer was that?

YGD!


jae8908


Jan 21, 2012, 7:36 AM
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jamesnater wrote:
.14s... yeah fuck that, I'm not gonna be anywhere near that in a year.

Realistically I see my self leading up to .12s outside in a year max.

Either way, cool to know. Thanks.

Realistically I see you leading up to 5.10's within a year. If you work your butt off maybe 11s.


Kartessa


Jan 21, 2012, 8:21 AM
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jae8908 wrote:
jamesnater wrote:
.14s... yeah fuck that, I'm not gonna be anywhere near that in a year.

Realistically I see my self leading up to .12s outside in a year max.

Either way, cool to know. Thanks.

Realistically I see you leading up to 5.10's within a year. If you work your butt off maybe 11s.

I'm gonna agree with 12s being possible... If you're a meat-head sport wanker at a softly graded crag.

No fucking way he'd be leading 12s, or even 11s on gear within the year.


meanandugly


Jan 21, 2012, 9:40 AM
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I was teaching a group of 1st timers a few years ago and had a few routes set up with top ropes. Mostly 3's and 4's, but was expecting a few others who had less than a year under their belt to show up, for them I had an 8, 9, and 10d set up. One of the 1st timers pointed out the 10d and said it looked cool and would like to try it...I tried to encourage him to try a couple of the easier routes 1st and then he could try it. He insisted on giving it a go, so I let him. He proceeded to tie in and hop on the 2nd climb of his life and made it look like an easy scramble up a class 4.
At the end of the day he had the 8's and 9's I had set up plus a couple other 10's I thru in for the day....all without one fall. Upon leaving he said he had fun, but climbing wasn't for him...I still bump into him now and then and he has never climbed since.


jamesnater


Jan 21, 2012, 11:36 AM
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Since you guys seem to like to flame, here's some more fuel...



You guys know more than me. I'm just a overly psyched n00b. I can only agree with you since I have no experience. I've only been climbing for exactly 4 months now. As of right now, I'm onsighting 10b lead climbs (at the gym... I know outside that's probably a 5.9 or something) without falling or doggin' on the rope. I've onsighted up to 10c actually, but 10b is where my "comfort" zone is and is where I'm most confident.

I usually just boulder (climbing V3~V5, but I attempt the V8's and higher all the time for shits and giggles), and just started lead climbing at the gym, so all the routes I've been climbing lately have been onsight.

Considering when I first started I was climbing 5.9 top rope and V1/2 bouldering, I feel like I've been doing pretty good. Though I don't really have anything to compare to... I don't usually talk to anyone at the gym and generally keep to myself.

I've always been very physically fit, all my life. I've been skating for 10 years. And about 2 years ago, I trained with my Air Force Recruiter who was an ex-Pararescueman (aka PJ, you should respect these unsung heroes) for a year to prepare for the pipeline (2 year training, arguably more intense than Navy Seal training).

Either way, I haven't had this much fun nor been this obsessed with something since I started skateboarding when I was 13 yrs old.




Actually, I still think I can climb 12s outside within a year. I understand it seems very unlikely. But am I capable? Without a fucking doubt.


johnwesely


Jan 21, 2012, 12:30 PM
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It is not unlikely if you want to do it and climb with those who already can. Find some people who eat 5.12, preferably 5.13, for breakfast and become their best friend.


bearbreeder


Jan 21, 2012, 12:55 PM
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1. you can do anything you set yr mind to eventually

2. youll need to do 5.13+ in yr first outdoor season to beat the guy below

3. while i applaud yr dedication to climbing hard, i dont applaud those climbers who brag and show off ... those are often the most unsafe climbers around ... every show off and braggart ive climbed with, ive stopped ... the baggage just aint worth it ... show offs tend to do funny things like crash cruise ships to impress people

4. the reality is that unless yr name is adam ondra there is always someone better than you



http://www.dpmclimbing.com/...d-progression-part-2

You may have caught on to my fascination with rapid progression through the climbing grades. Like most of us, I trickled up a grade or less with each year of climbing. When Jeremy Zachariash, an unknown to me, twenty-one year old claimed the second ascent of Jonathan Siegristís 5.14c testpiece New World Order, I raised a brow. After a little Google-stalking I found out that, not only was he young, but that heíd only been climbing for four years and just two years ago sent his first 5.13. Jeremy filled us in on what it takes to get good quick and why a diet of Heath Bar Blizzards doesn't help in the least.

......

DPM: What was your first climbing experience? How did you get into the sport?

Jeremy: I grew up climbing trees. When I was 17 years old, I wasnít into school and dropped out and went to a ski resort and worked as a ski instructor full time. Once the season ended I was looking for something to do and tried climbing and havenít skied since.

DPM: So youíve only been climbing for 4 years? How did you get so good so fast? What has your progression looked like?

Jeremy: I started out in the gym, and a year into climbing in the gym I tried climbing outside. From then on I switched my focus to climbing outside and spent a lot of time at Little Si working through the grades and putting in time on all the routes. When that season ended I managed to get into the low 13ís. From that time on, I spent my time either on the road or working to go climb. I went on a 5 month trip with my little brother and a friend. Then I came back, worked, and went on a 2 week trip that turned into 7 months! (laughs) During those trips it was all about having fun and climbing and it still is. Not until the last two months did I start to really progress. I had been working a Route in Washington called Baby Fight and I was trying it a lot but then put my efforts on hold to start bolting routes. After a couple weeks of bolting, scrubbing and climbing my own routes, I went back to the crag and fired the route. I then turned my focus to a line called Blackest Magic (5.14b) which I had always looked at as something I wanted to do. I worked the route for three weeks straight and watched what I ate. When I sent the route and got the second ascent, it was a big step up from anything I had ever climbed and really helped my fitness. Since then, I have just been having fun battling conditions, moving project to project, and trying hard.

DPM: Do you train? If so, when did you start? What do you do? Do you have a coach? Have you ever competed?

Jeremy: Currently I have been climbing outside around 3 to 5 days a week. I havenít climbed in a gym in over three months. All I do is watch what I eat and occasionally run. Sometime in the future I would like to train but up until now I have never really trained. I have only been to one competition a year or two ago and decided not to compete but it was fun to hang out.





jt512


Jan 21, 2012, 1:07 PM
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Kartessa wrote:
jae8908 wrote:
jamesnater wrote:
.14s... yeah fuck that, I'm not gonna be anywhere near that in a year.

Realistically I see my self leading up to .12s outside in a year max.

Either way, cool to know. Thanks.

Realistically I see you leading up to 5.10's within a year. If you work your butt off maybe 11s.

I'm gonna agree with 12s being possible... If you're a meat-head sport wanker at a softly graded crag.

No fucking way he'd be leading 12s, or even 11s on gear within the year.

Why would he want to, if he can sport climb.

Jay


jamesnater


Jan 21, 2012, 1:18 PM
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I've already read that article. In fact, I've met Jeremy at the local gym here, he was just kickin' it though, not climbing. He was there 'cause he just got back from Spain and his lil' brother climbs at that gym. I've been climbing with his lil' brother at the gym a lot, he's a route setter there.

Sorry if I came off as arrogant or cocky. I'm probably the most humble guy you'll ever meet. I'm very shy too so I don't show off as to cause unwanted attention to myself. Talking to people on the internet is much easier to do than in person for me, lol.

It's not a matter of being the best, I couldn't care less about that. I just want to climb the best that I can, and never stop progressing.


bearbreeder


Jan 21, 2012, 1:31 PM
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then i suggest you just go outside with someone who knows what they are doing and do it ....

what RCers (including me) think, or what is the highest grade done by someone else shouldnt matter ...

if you are safe, respectful of others and their gear, and willing to cover/share the cover costs, and not going on like some ex-partners of mine who kept going on and on about how they would do cobra crack or dreamcatcher ... you should be able to find partners and have a good fun time pushing yrself


tH1e-swiN1e


Jan 21, 2012, 5:09 PM
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jamesnater wrote:
Since you guys seem to like to flame, here's some more fuel...



You guys know more than me. I'm just a overly psyched n00b. I can only agree with you since I have no experience. I've only been climbing for exactly 4 months now. As of right now, I'm onsighting 10b lead climbs (at the gym... I know outside that's probably a 5.9 or something) without falling or doggin' on the rope. I've onsighted up to 10c actually, but 10b is where my "comfort" zone is and is where I'm most confident.

I usually just boulder (climbing V3~V5, but I attempt the V8's and higher all the time for shits and giggles), and just started lead climbing at the gym, so all the routes I've been climbing lately have been onsight.

Considering when I first started I was climbing 5.9 top rope and V1/2 bouldering, I feel like I've been doing pretty good. Though I don't really have anything to compare to... I don't usually talk to anyone at the gym and generally keep to myself.

I've always been very physically fit, all my life. I've been skating for 10 years. And about 2 years ago, I trained with my Air Force Recruiter who was an ex-Pararescueman (aka PJ, you should respect these unsung heroes) for a year to prepare for the pipeline (2 year training, arguably more intense than Navy Seal training).

Either way, I haven't had this much fun nor been this obsessed with something since I started skateboarding when I was 13 yrs old.




Actually, I still think I can climb 12s outside within a year. I understand it seems very unlikely. But am I capable? Without a fucking doubt.

If you can boulder V5 youre already climbing 5.12 but again outdoor grades will be far harder than your gym problems.


dan2see


Jan 21, 2012, 8:01 PM
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Ha ha! If this really is your first year of climbing, then I'd bet anyone that you won't make your goal.

So if I were climbing with you, I'd make this bet:

I bet $100.00 for every grade below 5.12 that you fail.

Hmm... but if I knew you personally, I might boost that to $1000.00
on lead
outside
by the end of 2012


jakedatc


Jan 21, 2012, 8:41 PM
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jamesnater wrote:
I've already read that article. In fact, I've met Jeremy at the local gym here, he was just kickin' it though, not climbing. He was there 'cause he just got back from Spain and his lil' brother climbs at that gym. I've been climbing with his lil' brother at the gym a lot, he's a route setter there.

Sorry if I came off as arrogant or cocky. I'm probably the most humble guy you'll ever meet. I'm very shy too so I don't show off as to cause unwanted attention to myself. Talking to people on the internet is much easier to do than in person for me, lol.

It's not a matter of being the best, I couldn't care less about that. I just want to climb the best that I can, and never stop progressing.

ya think?
you came in asking if you could break the record for the hardest grade done in a year......

go OUTSIDE. you will either pick it up and excel or get pwned. either way you'll eventually improve just like everyone else. how much, who knows and especially on here.. who cares.


crjanow


Jan 22, 2012, 10:17 AM
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this thread is total gnar brah!Wink

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