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Elbow Pain need a magic cure... or a doctor.
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kbell


Jan 7, 2003, 12:07 PM
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Elbow Pain need a magic cure... or a doctor.
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Ok... so I have been climbing for about 2 years and I continue to experience ache's in both elbows. Looking into Tennis Elbow however the symptoms seem to be different, kinda a deep ache inside the joints. Thus far I have rested for several months and it ALWAYS returns, continue training but it always comes back. Looking for a sports Doctor for treatment in the Denver Co. area, or suggestions of any kind. After day 2 of climbing I am out for several days and it just sucks to be me at that point. Will try anything short of Voodoo. well perhaps even voodoo.


cologman


Jan 7, 2003, 12:22 PM
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Elbow Pain need a magic cure... or a doctor. [In reply to]
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Try Vail Orthopedics. They have an office in Frisco which is a little closer to Denver. Sounds like what is referred to as "Golfers Elbow" similar to "Tennis Elbow" but pain is predominately on the inside quandrant of the elbow. Surgery, my man, seems to be what I've heard. If you find something different out PM me. Good Luck!


kbell


Jan 7, 2003, 12:38 PM
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Elbow Pain need a magic cure... or a doctor. [In reply to]
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Uhhhg.... ! Not the answer anyone ever wants to hear but, thx for the tip on Vail Ortho. Will give them a ring.


jumpingrock


Jan 9, 2003, 10:56 PM
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Elbow Pain need a magic cure... or a doctor. [In reply to]
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Five quick tips: Try climbing with one arm and use your feet more. Don't pull up with you arms push up with your feet. Work on technical routes rather than brute strength routes. Do some slab climbing. Try raping 1" of tape twice 1" below your elbow on your upper arm. This works for tennis elbow and heck you never know it just might work.

Dave
Climb Hard, Climb Safe, Climb Again.


bouldertoad


Jan 9, 2003, 11:57 PM
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Elbow Pain need a magic cure... or a doctor. [In reply to]
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It sounds to me like you have a bad case of tedinitis, not that i am a doctor or anything. If you continued to climb on it after the pain started then you may have further aggravated the injury and surgery may be the only option. I am not trying to scare you but I had a friend who climbed even though his elbows hurt like hell and he ended up needing surgery to repair the damage.
The best advice is not to climb at all not even easy routes until there is no pain when you are doing normal climbing motions. Then go back into climbing SLOWLY. Easy routes that are not overhanging with big holds. I know this sucks but either you can climb now and possibly have to give up the sport we all love or let it heal and give up climbing when you want to if ever......Hope this helps.


swohletz


Jan 10, 2003, 12:19 AM
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Elbow Pain need a magic cure... or a doctor. [In reply to]
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I'm with jumpingrock....rest, and work on using your feet more and your arms less. Also you might try building up the muscles around the joint so they are in balance--triceps in particular are often the weakest and make people injury prone. That might help as well. That is what physical therapists do for tendinitis and it's very effective. I've come back from tendinitis in my knees with PT very successfully...PT might be part of your answer.


polishbob


Jul 6, 2005, 10:27 PM
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forearm injury [In reply to]
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how about simple thing like stretching after climbing? ringing a bell? with your arm straight (forearm flexors and extensors also cross your elbow) and palm up (supination) bring your straight fingers and hand down towards the flor for 1 second. let go and repeat for 12 times each hand. then with the ohter hand grab your fingers and give it a little assist. also hold the stretch for 1 second (avoiding stretch muscle reflex). i recommend buy youself a book: http://www.stretchingusa.com/product.cfm?proID=28 and use this as your primary injury prevention tool.


bvdeenen


Jan 8, 2011, 4:14 AM
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Re: [kbell] Elbow Pain need a magic cure... or a doctor. [In reply to]
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I got rid of my golfers elbow with eccentric training. It was so effective that I decided to put my experience on the web, with a small video.
Results for me: 100% healed in a few months. Costs: almost nothing.

http://sites.google.com/site/healgolferselbow/


ceebo


Jan 8, 2011, 6:28 AM
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Re: [bvdeenen] Elbow Pain need a magic cure... or a doctor. [In reply to]
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bvdeenen wrote:
I got rid of my golfers elbow with eccentric training. It was so effective that I decided to put my experience on the web, with a small video.
Results for me: 100% healed in a few months. Costs: almost nothing.

http://sites.google.com/site/healgolferselbow/

This looks really helpfull. I must try it, but first, can you tell me what i should train?.. i keep getting reacuring pain in both elbos on the outside of arms but it feels slightly centred in the joint.

Should i do the training in the reverse way?. Also, is this somthing that i can regularly do for the rest of my climbing career to stop the pain from ever coming back?. Or will it come with its own set of overuse problems?.

Would it hurt if i done the exersize in both directions?.


(This post was edited by ceebo on Jan 8, 2011, 6:32 AM)


bvdeenen


Jan 8, 2011, 8:17 AM
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Re: [ceebo] Elbow Pain need a magic cure... or a doctor. [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:


This looks really helpfull. I must try it, but first, can you tell me what i should train?.. i keep getting reacuring pain in both elbos on the outside of arms but it feels slightly centred in the joint.
I'm definitely not a doctor! I do know that epycondilitis (tennis- or golfers-elbow) manifests itself very clearly as pain when you press on the bony bit on the inside our outside of the elbow. If it's the inside it's golfers-elbow, the outside it's tennis elbow. But there are many more elbow injuries, like impingement syndrome, that will not respond positively to eccentric training. You need a diagnosis first, before you can start these exercises! Orthopedic surgeons are the best for this.
ceebo wrote:
Should i do the training in the reverse way?. Also, is this somthing that i can regularly do for the rest of my climbing career to stop the pain from ever coming back?. Or will it come with its own set of overuse problems?.

Would it hurt if i done the exersize in both directions?.
I've done the exercises for about half a year, and then stopped. I'm climbing better than ever (7b redpoint). The elbow is fine. I did these exercises in the first half of 2008, and the pain has not returned.


dugl33


Jan 8, 2011, 10:31 AM
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Re: [bvdeenen] Elbow Pain need a magic cure... or a doctor. [In reply to]
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bvdeenen wrote:
I got rid of my golfers elbow with eccentric training. It was so effective that I decided to put my experience on the web, with a small video.
Results for me: 100% healed in a few months. Costs: almost nothing.

http://sites.google.com/site/healgolferselbow/

Great video -- you sound like Schwarzenegger! I came across this recently as well:

http://www.rockandice.com/...cle/951-dodgy-elbows

To the OP -- been there! I literally feel your pain. Seeing a good orthopedist or even a general practitioner is a good place to start. Most likely lead to PT of some sort. Surgery isn't going to generally be the first thing even a surgeon will recommend.

Some things that have helped me (not perfect as I'm still dealing with it)

1.) Warm up thoroughly on easy easy routes. I'm talking the kids section here. Less than vertical if at all possible.

2.) Don't gym climb two days in a row! Follow the standard weight lifters approach of 48 hours between training.

3.) Ice. A cheap bag of frozen peas works great. Reusable -- just toss back in the freezer.

4.) When the pain starts to flair up while climbing, stop! Immediately. Can be pretty hard to do. Figure out how much you can climb without symptoms. 1 day a week? 2? 3? Two days a week is better than 5 and then down and out for a month, imo.

5.) Ibuprofen: only after stopping climbing, not to simply mask the pain and keep climbing.

6.) Stretch. The brachioradialis* stretch, and two others (sorry, don't know what they are called)

7.) Strengthen. Focus on the muscles not developed by climbing. The exercise above, reverse wrist curls, finger extensors. Some work strengthen the arms all the way up to the shoulder might be a good idea -- biceps, triceps, shoulder stabilizers.

"Onceahardman" weighs in on these issues sometimes with good advice...

Back to the beginning though, if you can afford it, find a good ortho that understands the elbow and the demands of climbing, do the PT.

If you ignore it it will get worse, trust me on that!

Cool


*edit for spelling.


(This post was edited by dugl33 on Jan 8, 2011, 11:25 AM)


smallclimber


Jan 8, 2011, 10:36 AM
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Re: [kbell] Elbow Pain need a magic cure... or a doctor. [In reply to]
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My husband had a similar problem, which persisted for a few years, and suggested I send this link (for some reason registering on RC.com is beyond him!)
http://www.athlon.com.au/...amp;i_dodgyelbow.pdf
I think its the same at least in part as the rock and ice article from the previous poster, but he found it very helpful.


lazymonkey


Jun 12, 2011, 12:29 AM
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Re: [smallclimber] Elbow Pain need a magic cure... or a doctor. [In reply to]
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Active release therapy made me virtually pain free...I used to get such bad pains in my elbows that it actually made me nauseous sometimes...a.r.t. is seriously amazing though...hurts, but it works


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