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namoclimber


Jan 17, 2012, 4:09 PM
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Registered: Dec 17, 2005
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  I have been on a 2 year hiatus and want to hear what everyone thinks I should do to get back endurance ,strength and over all power .
Thank you in advance...
A little history. I mostly boulder but climb some roped stuff as cross over training. Right now i can climb around v5/v6.
I probably have 2 indoor days a week to pull this off and some time at home,but have small children so my home time is mostly about them.
Before accident and hiatus i was climbing v10 the odd v11.


IvanL


Jan 17, 2012, 4:20 PM
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I had a long break from climbing, and injured a tendon because I tried to climb hard straight away. Don't do that.

I found general strength came back pretty quickly, things that needed extra attention were finger strength and endurance. My endurance was terrible, even for boulder problems. I found that lots and lots of climbing, going for volume really helped get those climbing specific muscles back in to shape quicker.

Good luck


eric_k


Jan 19, 2012, 5:38 AM
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It is the most boring thing you can do but long ARC sessions were the best thing I have done to improve my endurance. When I was ARCing a lot I would traverse back and forth in my gym for two or three sessions of 20 to 45 minutes. The key is to keep the intensity just bellow a pump. Again this is super boring, but if you want endurance this is a good way to start. For better info reference "Self Coached Climber"

Eric


tH1e-swiN1e


Jan 19, 2012, 6:47 PM
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I dont think anyone who climbs/climbed v10+ would have to ask this question. Hiatus or not.


namoclimber


Jan 20, 2012, 4:03 PM
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Some people climb because they truly love it. Before you know it your at whatever level your at, for some its a higher level then others. Looking back on it in retrospect I cant remember what i did other then just climbing all the time and having fun that got me to that level. Now having kids and not having the options to be an everyday climber, I get flamed. Thanks to those that had suggestions and warnings. I will take it easy on my shoulders and fingers for sure. Maybe just look it up in training threads instead of wasting anymore of your valuable time and knowledge.
Keep the rubber side down...maybe that's for something else never mind.


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