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Rmsyll2
Jan 21, 2012, 1:50 PM
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Registered: Oct 6, 2010
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Attached are two photos of something new to me for top-rope rigging from rim anchors for bottom belay. The different sorts of rings and slings is not my question. I'm curious whether this is or is becoming more common elsewhere for a similar use.
In both cases, the rope would be fed through the ring(s). For the flat torus attached around it, that position puts the rope toward the rock, which is not a rubbing problem there, and not my question. For the two rings, their material or number is not my question. They are not threaded to utilize the stop-knots, and that is not my question.
In both cases, carabiners have been replaced with something that cannot be opened to pose that hazard. Rings, of whatever material, are lighter and less bulky and cheaper. A permanent rig could be made, as two-point cordelette or equalette or quadralette, to have the ring in place to save that time and fiddling. Feeding the rope through does take some time, compared to clipping the mid-point, but also accomplishes flaking to save time. Unlike a pulley or half-arc, it poses the same friction that bottom belay usually depends on.
With other details covered, this seems to be an attractive option. At least those two climbers thought so, and there are many such items on the market.
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Attachments:
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Goldilocks anchors23b sm.jpg
(71.5 KB)
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Dude anchor22b sm.jpg
(83.3 KB)
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bearbreeder
Jan 21, 2012, 2:02 PM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
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i really dont understand why everyone keeps trying to reinvent the wheel for something as simple as a top rope anchor ...
the guides who take clients out the most and have liability dont use these fancy smancy anchors
for some reason i suspect that if yr a top rope tough guy, having some fancy anchor is just another way to show off ...
KISS ... and people wont die from it
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petsfed
Jan 21, 2012, 2:25 PM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
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I think the flaking time would be an argument against, since you have to fight friction while you're pulling through. I hate that when I have to do it, I don't know why you'd intentionally set yourself up for that.
By the way, think about what would happen to your second anchor if either of the carabiners at the bolts happened to come unclipped from your neon yellow cord.
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dan2see
Jan 21, 2012, 7:38 PM
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Registered: Mar 28, 2006
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The second picture "Dude" I don't understand. I just can't figure out what it's supposed to show us.
The first picture "Goldilocks" isn't "just right" at all. The bolts, biners, and slings are great! And that baby-blanket makes me feel warm and fuzzy (really).
But the ring setup is where daddy bear will bite you. I agree with Petsfed how flaking your rope through the ring would be a pain, but actually it's worse than that.
First of all, you must untie your rope, so you can thread it through the ring. So while you are fighting friction and time to flake one-half of your entire rope through that thing, how are you anchored?
Worse, there's only one ring. I don't know the kilohertz rating, but -- Dude! you gotta use two! Two! Two for redundancy. So you can fix that by hitching one ring to one sling, the second ring to the second sling, and thread your rope through both at once.
But Hey! That's still dumb. Leave those rings at home, and bring along a couple of lockers. Any brand, any color, but you need two lockers. One on each sling. Then, you don't have to thread the rope.
Even better, you don't have to untie!
********************************************
Here's how:
When you climb to the anchor, you clip one sling to a bolt. Then you clip your rope (you're on belay, remember!) to the sling using a locking biner. Now (ta-da!) you're on belay! !! !!!
Then clip the second sling to its bolt, and clip your rope with that. Now (ta-da!) you're on a redundant anchor.
Then you turn around, and yell "Lower!"
********************************************
No flaking, no untying, no sketchy non-redundant anchors, no time waste.
And you get those advantages, simply by using the same simple procedures that all the old guys use.
(Edit to add...)
Oh I forgot! I really like your baby-blanket idea.
(This post was edited by dan2see on Jan 21, 2012, 7:40 PM)
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petsfed
Jan 21, 2012, 9:48 PM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
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Dan, this was (supposedly) for just straight, walk-to-the-top top-roping. So the concern about anchoring yourself is not really warranted.
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dan2see
Jan 21, 2012, 9:53 PM
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petsfed wrote: Dan, this was (supposedly) for just straight, walk-to-the-top top-roping. So the concern about anchoring yourself is not really warranted.
Understood.
Well, the construction of my anchor was pretty good, though! Even if he's building it while hanging onto a tree.
And I still like his blanket.
(This post was edited by dan2see on Jan 21, 2012, 9:55 PM)
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qwert
Jan 22, 2012, 4:00 AM
Post #7 of 7
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 2371
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STOP
THAT
STUPID
TOPROPING
MADNESS
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Toproping with anchors set from above is an abomination. Do not partake in that "activity"! If you see others doing it, kindly tell them that they should not do it. Its bad for them and for everyone else!
You climb up and then either top out, or lower down. If you have someone with you that cant lead, you lead, and belay them from above, or construct an anchor for a slingshot belay after you have lead the route, and the you get lowered from that anchor.
qwert
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