Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners:
Wheres my grip?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Beginners

Premier Sponsor:

 


leeola


Jan 23, 2012, 11:43 AM
Post #1 of 7 (2075 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 23, 2011
Posts: 2

Wheres my grip?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hi folks,

I'm new to climbing, or rather bouldering and I've noticed a bit of a problem with my grip strength. After working on a problem at or around my technical limit for around 10-20 minutes or so I just can't grip for poop and have to quit. I rest a few minutes (sometimes 5-10) between each attempt but that doesn't seem to help too much.
I'm sure this is natural for a beginner and all but I'm wondering if there are any tips or techniques I can employ to allow me to have a longer climbing session?
I'm guessing being fairly new to this I'm probably over-gripping and lack of technique is effecting the efficiency. I don't think the problems I'm working are over my head (only V1 - 2) and when I'm not pumped I can do them with ease (just want to refine them before moving onto a grade higher) also I'm in fairly good shape (weigh about 180lbs though).
Basically, is this the norm and a question of time, patience and practice and what can I do to combat this kind of pump in the forearms?

Cheers


TarHeelEMT


Jan 23, 2012, 12:09 PM
Post #2 of 7 (2055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 20, 2009
Posts: 724

Re: [leeola] Wheres my grip? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

This is the norm. The best way to combat it is to improve your technique and avoid over-gripping. Avoid trying to train your grip strength specifically at this point in your climbing career, because you risk injury from overuse.

Just keep climbing and work on technique. Don't overdo it.


redlude97


Jan 23, 2012, 1:33 PM
Post #3 of 7 (2008 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 27, 2008
Posts: 990

Re: [leeola] Wheres my grip? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

leeola wrote:
Hi folks,

I'm new to climbing, or rather bouldering and I've noticed a bit of a problem with my grip strength. After working on a problem at or around my technical limit for around 10-20 minutes or so I just can't grip for poop and have to quit. I rest a few minutes (sometimes 5-10) between each attempt but that doesn't seem to help too much.
I'm sure this is natural for a beginner and all but I'm wondering if there are any tips or techniques I can employ to allow me to have a longer climbing session?
I'm guessing being fairly new to this I'm probably over-gripping and lack of technique is effecting the efficiency. I don't think the problems I'm working are over my head (only V1 - 2) and when I'm not pumped I can do them with ease (just want to refine them before moving onto a grade higher) also I'm in fairly good shape (weigh about 180lbs though).
Basically, is this the norm and a question of time, patience and practice and what can I do to combat this kind of pump in the forearms?

Cheers
How many goes in the 10-20 mins? The key is to avoid getting deep into a pump working a problem because once you are in the red it is very hard to recover. I find for new climbers that means 5-10mins between tries if they are really pushing it because they have a tendency to overgrip as mentioned, whereas more experienced climbers fall because of technical cruxes or sequences so they can retry a problem in a few minutes.


Colinhoglund


Jan 23, 2012, 2:45 PM
Post #4 of 7 (1965 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 4, 2008
Posts: 338

Re: [leeola] Wheres my grip? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Endurance will come with time. Instead of climbing v1-2's constantly, take a day off and traverse the wall starting with all holds in. Then climb a V0 circuit (say 6-10 routes, repeat routes as necessary). Focus on precision and control, always stay balanced and have good form. This will also give you milage, and there is no substitute. Milage is what trains your brain to move your body efficiently on the rock. Lastly, pay attention to your feet, try and get as much weight off your hands while doing the traverses and circuits.

Have fun!


bill413


Jan 24, 2012, 8:42 AM
Post #5 of 7 (1891 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674

Re: [Colinhoglund] Wheres my grip? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Make sure you warm up, then rest before the hard stuff. Don't go all the way to a pump during your warm up.


swoopee


Feb 2, 2012, 6:03 PM
Post #6 of 7 (1582 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 560

Re: [leeola] Wheres my grip? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Use your feet.Smile


Rmsyll2


Feb 5, 2012, 8:45 PM
Post #7 of 7 (1414 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2010
Posts: 266

Re: [leeola] Wheres my grip? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

There has been some interest in considering exercise as aerobic or anaerobic, for instance see http://endurancedoc.com/...aerobic_training.htm
http://voices.yahoo.com/...raining-3757734.html
http://eslbee.com/...aerobic_training.htm
and others about Aerobic Recovery and Capillarity = ARC.

There is a specific Forum here: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...gforum.cgi?forum=36;
and an article:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ockprodigy__258.html
which mentions two books among others.

The problem with body weight is how much of it is able to move the rest of it in the manner of rock climbing. The more you value your climbing ability, the less you will tolerate a single extra pound.

.


Forums : Climbing Information : Beginners

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$7.16 (10% off)
$13.46 (10% off)
$39.15 (10% off)
$1.58 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook