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leeola
Jan 23, 2012, 11:43 AM
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Registered: Nov 23, 2011
Posts: 2
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Hi folks,
I'm new to climbing, or rather bouldering and I've noticed a bit of a problem with my grip strength. After working on a problem at or around my technical limit for around 10-20 minutes or so I just can't grip for poop and have to quit. I rest a few minutes (sometimes 5-10) between each attempt but that doesn't seem to help too much.
I'm sure this is natural for a beginner and all but I'm wondering if there are any tips or techniques I can employ to allow me to have a longer climbing session?
I'm guessing being fairly new to this I'm probably over-gripping and lack of technique is effecting the efficiency. I don't think the problems I'm working are over my head (only V1 - 2) and when I'm not pumped I can do them with ease (just want to refine them before moving onto a grade higher) also I'm in fairly good shape (weigh about 180lbs though).
Basically, is this the norm and a question of time, patience and practice and what can I do to combat this kind of pump in the forearms?
Cheers
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TarHeelEMT
Jan 23, 2012, 12:09 PM
Post #2 of 7
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Registered: Jun 20, 2009
Posts: 724
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This is the norm. The best way to combat it is to improve your technique and avoid over-gripping. Avoid trying to train your grip strength specifically at this point in your climbing career, because you risk injury from overuse.
Just keep climbing and work on technique. Don't overdo it.
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redlude97
Jan 23, 2012, 1:33 PM
Post #3 of 7
(1707 views)
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Registered: Aug 27, 2008
Posts: 982
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leeola wrote: Hi folks, I'm new to climbing, or rather bouldering and I've noticed a bit of a problem with my grip strength. After working on a problem at or around my technical limit for around 10-20 minutes or so I just can't grip for poop and have to quit. I rest a few minutes (sometimes 5-10) between each attempt but that doesn't seem to help too much. I'm sure this is natural for a beginner and all but I'm wondering if there are any tips or techniques I can employ to allow me to have a longer climbing session? I'm guessing being fairly new to this I'm probably over-gripping and lack of technique is effecting the efficiency. I don't think the problems I'm working are over my head (only V1 - 2) and when I'm not pumped I can do them with ease (just want to refine them before moving onto a grade higher) also I'm in fairly good shape (weigh about 180lbs though). Basically, is this the norm and a question of time, patience and practice and what can I do to combat this kind of pump in the forearms? Cheers
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Colinhoglund
Jan 23, 2012, 2:45 PM
Post #4 of 7
(1664 views)
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Registered: May 4, 2008
Posts: 335
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Endurance will come with time. Instead of climbing v1-2's constantly, take a day off and traverse the wall starting with all holds in. Then climb a V0 circuit (say 6-10 routes, repeat routes as necessary). Focus on precision and control, always stay balanced and have good form. This will also give you milage, and there is no substitute. Milage is what trains your brain to move your body efficiently on the rock. Lastly, pay attention to your feet, try and get as much weight off your hands while doing the traverses and circuits.
Have fun!
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bill413
Jan 24, 2012, 8:42 AM
Post #5 of 7
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Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
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Make sure you warm up, then rest before the hard stuff. Don't go all the way to a pump during your warm up.
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swoopee
Feb 2, 2012, 6:03 PM
Post #6 of 7
(1281 views)
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Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 560
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Use your feet.
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