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shotwell


Jan 24, 2012, 9:18 PM
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Very stiff downturned shoes
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Hey all,

I am looking to make an addition to my shoe harem. Being a decent sized dude (175 and 6 feet), I like to wear pretty stiff shoes when I boulder. Warming up I will wear a pretty soft shoe like the Muira or Cobra. Once I'm on to the harder climbs, I have been rocking Katana Laces or Solutions. Unfortunately, I'm starting to experience some toe pain after my hardest days.

I am looking for suggestions on shoes with very stiff forefoot sections with a soft midfoot. I don't want to go back to the bad old days with a fully rigid shoe that I can't move my ankle in without popping off (like the Boreal Ace or ballet Gold.) The next pair hopefully will be even stiffer than the Katana Laces I am wearing.

FYI, I already have Acopa B3, Scarpa Vapor S, and regular Katana in addition to the above mentioned shoe. I wore and liked the Evolved Pontas Lace-up for edging, didn't like it for heel hooking.

Additionally, I don't wear my shoes crazy tight. Just enough to keep my toes half curled.

Thanks in advance.


(This post was edited by shotwell on Jan 24, 2012, 9:38 PM)


noahfor


Jan 24, 2012, 9:29 PM
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Re: [shotwell] Very stiff downturned shoes [In reply to]
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I've heard that the Evolv Shamans are pretty stiff, but haven't tried them myself. I find the Miura Velcro to be pretty stiff.


shotwell


Jan 24, 2012, 9:36 PM
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Re: [noahfor] Very stiff downturned shoes [In reply to]
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noahfor wrote:
I've heard that the Evolv Shamans are pretty stiff, but haven't tried them myself. I find the Miura Velcro to be pretty stiff.

The Shaman will be on my short list to try on. The Muira VS has the same midsole as the Katana Laces and a wider toe box. Don't think it will work out to be stiffer. Thanks though!


(This post was edited by shotwell on Jan 24, 2012, 9:37 PM)


lazymonkey


Jan 25, 2012, 2:42 AM
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Re: [shotwell] Very stiff downturned shoes [In reply to]
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Fiveten teams. The sizings retarded though...got em in my street size and they are crazy painful...however, they are ultra precise..the toebox is super stiff...

Ive also heard the verdes are fantastic for thin face climbing


shotwell


Jan 25, 2012, 7:33 AM
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Re: [lazymonkey] Very stiff downturned shoes [In reply to]
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lazymonkey wrote:
Fiveten teams. The sizings retarded though...got em in my street size and they are crazy painful...however, they are ultra precise..the toebox is super stiff...

Ive also heard the verdes are fantastic for thin face climbing

I am not really looking for a thin face shoe, so the Team might fit the bill. I feel like I tried it on before, but I will look for it again. The downturn is crucial for me as I do a lot of severely overhanging bouldering on pretty bad feet.

Has anyone tried the Krypton or Lynx from Boreal? Thoughts?


caughtinside


Jan 25, 2012, 8:36 AM
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Re: [shotwell] Very stiff downturned shoes [In reply to]
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Are you sure that your toes hurt because your shoes aren't stiff enough? It could be the shoe fit.

I mention it because I had a similar issue a few years ago. I was wearing katanas, and once I switched to a shoe that fit my forefoot better, didn't draw my big toe into my other toes so much, the pain went away in a week. My new shoes, scarpas, weren't any stiffer than the katanas.

Hope you get this worked out.


Jooler


Jan 25, 2012, 12:33 PM
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Re: [shotwell] Very stiff downturned shoes [In reply to]
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I found the Evolv Predator G2 to be quite stiff. Though they (at least the pair I have) has an abrasive seam down the back of the heel which makes it somewhat painful to wear...


johnwesely


Jan 25, 2012, 1:13 PM
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Re: [shotwell] Very stiff downturned shoes [In reply to]
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One of the new Madrock shoes has a polycarbonate midsole and is pretty aggressive.


(This post was edited by johnwesely on Jan 25, 2012, 1:13 PM)


rhythm164


Jan 25, 2012, 2:08 PM
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Re: [shotwell] Very stiff downturned shoes [In reply to]
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The 5.10 Arrowheads are pretty stiff. You'll get more support from the C4 than you would from the Teams, which sport the Stealth HF


shotwell


Jan 25, 2012, 6:14 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] Very stiff downturned shoes [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
Are you sure that your toes hurt because your shoes aren't stiff enough? It could be the shoe fit.

I mention it because I had a similar issue a few years ago. I was wearing katanas, and once I switched to a shoe that fit my forefoot better, didn't draw my big toe into my other toes so much, the pain went away in a week. My new shoes, scarpas, weren't any stiffer than the katanas.)

Hope you get this worked out.
Pretty sure. The pain isn't from squeezing my toes together, it is joint pain in the middle and ring toe. I might be wrong, but I never experienced this until this season. I am doing a lot more big moves on horrible feet now, however.

Thanks all for suggestions to try. I will be checking out everything I can find.


lazymonkey


Jan 26, 2012, 3:07 AM
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Hey shottwell, how did u like the acopa b3s?? Been thinking about trying them


Jooler


Jan 26, 2012, 11:04 AM
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Re: [rhythm164] Very stiff downturned shoes [In reply to]
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rhythm164 wrote:
The 5.10 Arrowheads are pretty stiff. You'll get more support from the C4 than you would from the Teams, which sport the Stealth HF

Actually the Teams are Stealth Mystique which is extremely similar to C4, only thinner. The Dragons and Jet7s are the only two 5.10 shoes that have Stealth HF.


redlude97


Jan 26, 2012, 11:08 AM
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Re: [Jooler] Very stiff downturned shoes [In reply to]
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Scarpa Feroces? Since you didn't find the Vapor V's stiff enough? I have both and the Feroces are more aggressive and stiff


(This post was edited by redlude97 on Jan 26, 2012, 11:11 AM)


shotwell


Jan 26, 2012, 8:17 PM
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lazymonkey wrote:
Hey shottwell, how did u like the acopa b3s?? Been thinking about trying them

Like them, but they are getting to be hard to find now that Afloat has been under for about a year. Use them mainly as a face shoe, which is not what I bought them for.


shotwell


Jan 26, 2012, 8:22 PM
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Re: [redlude97] Very stiff downturned shoes [In reply to]
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redlude97 wrote:
Scarpa Feroces? Since you didn't find the Vapor V's stiff enough? I have both and the Feroces are more aggressive and stiff

Thanks for the tip. The vapor was about the right stiffness, but the really round toe box just didn't fit. Looking forward to trying on the Feroce.


Yondergrass


Feb 16, 2012, 7:31 PM
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If your looking for stiff downturned shoes that dont completely destroy your toes, I would suggest the 5.10 Quantams. I got a good deal on a pair a half size down from street, and they are great for climbing face and overhang. I typically use by dragons for more intense projects, which are currently my favorite stiff downturned climbing shoe.


shockabuku


Feb 16, 2012, 11:33 PM
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Re: [shotwell] Very stiff downturned shoes [In reply to]
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shotwell wrote:
lazymonkey wrote:
Fiveten teams. The sizings retarded though...got em in my street size and they are crazy painful...however, they are ultra precise..the toebox is super stiff...

Ive also heard the verdes are fantastic for thin face climbing

I am not really looking for a thin face shoe, so the Team might fit the bill. I feel like I tried it on before, but I will look for it again. The downturn is crucial for me as I do a lot of severely overhanging bouldering on pretty bad feet.

Has anyone tried the Krypton or Lynx from Boreal? Thoughts?

My son has a pair of the Boreal Kryptos. They're not particularly downturned and not very stiff. He's about 5'11", 180 and I think finds them a little softer than he wanted. Unfortunately he's got very high volume feet and they were one of the few shoes that fit him very well. He's also got a pair of Scarpa Boosters that he prefers that I'd say are stiffer and severely more downturned.


sycamore


Feb 17, 2012, 7:08 AM
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Re: [shockabuku] Very stiff downturned shoes [In reply to]
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I just climbed in the Evolve Shamans the other day and was pleasantly surprised, as i'm usually not the biggest Evolve fan. Pretty stiff, very downturned, and with a wider toebox that actually fit my feet quite well.


shockabuku


Feb 17, 2012, 7:31 AM
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Thanks, but it's better to address your comments to the OP.


shotwell


Feb 17, 2012, 4:41 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] Very stiff downturned shoes [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
shotwell wrote:
lazymonkey wrote:
Fiveten teams. The sizings retarded though...got em in my street size and they are crazy painful...however, they are ultra precise..the toebox is super stiff...

Ive also heard the verdes are fantastic for thin face climbing

I am not really looking for a thin face shoe, so the Team might fit the bill. I feel like I tried it on before, but I will look for it again. The downturn is crucial for me as I do a lot of severely overhanging bouldering on pretty bad feet.

Has anyone tried the Krypton or Lynx from Boreal? Thoughts?

My son has a pair of the Boreal Kryptos. They're not particularly downturned and not very stiff. He's about 5'11", 180 and I think finds them a little softer than he wanted. Unfortunately he's got very high volume feet and they were one of the few shoes that fit him very well. He's also got a pair of Scarpa Boosters that he prefers that I'd say are stiffer and severely more downturned.

Thanks. I'll check out the Booster and possibly the new Boostic. Appreciate the beta on the Krypto.


shotwell


Feb 17, 2012, 4:41 PM
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Yondergrass wrote:
If your looking for stiff downturned shoes that dont completely destroy your toes, I would suggest the 5.10 Quantams. I got a good deal on a pair a half size down from street, and they are great for climbing face and overhang. I typically use by dragons for more intense projects, which are currently my favorite stiff downturned climbing shoe.

Thanks, I've tried both on.


shotwell


Feb 17, 2012, 4:42 PM
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sycamore wrote:
I just climbed in the Evolve Shamans the other day and was pleasantly surprised, as i'm usually not the biggest Evolve fan. Pretty stiff, very downturned, and with a wider toebox that actually fit my feet quite well.

Tried these on the other day. Noticeably less stiff than the Katana Lace. Thanks though!


shoo


Feb 27, 2012, 7:29 AM
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shotwell wrote:
Hey all,

I am looking to make an addition to my shoe harem. Being a decent sized dude (175 and 6 feet), I like to wear pretty stiff shoes when I boulder. Warming up I will wear a pretty soft shoe like the Muira or Cobra. Once I'm on to the harder climbs, I have been rocking Katana Laces or Solutions. Unfortunately, I'm starting to experience some toe pain after my hardest days.

I am looking for suggestions on shoes with very stiff forefoot sections with a soft midfoot. I don't want to go back to the bad old days with a fully rigid shoe that I can't move my ankle in without popping off (like the Boreal Ace or ballet Gold.) The next pair hopefully will be even stiffer than the Katana Laces I am wearing.

FYI, I already have Acopa B3, Scarpa Vapor S, and regular Katana in addition to the above mentioned shoe. I wore and liked the Evolved Pontas Lace-up for edging, didn't like it for heel hooking.

Additionally, I don't wear my shoes crazy tight. Just enough to keep my toes half curled.

Thanks in advance.

8 pairs of shoes and you need another????????


shockabuku


Feb 27, 2012, 8:56 AM
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shoo wrote:
shotwell wrote:
Hey all,

I am looking to make an addition to my shoe harem. Being a decent sized dude (175 and 6 feet), I like to wear pretty stiff shoes when I boulder. Warming up I will wear a pretty soft shoe like the Muira or Cobra. Once I'm on to the harder climbs, I have been rocking Katana Laces or Solutions. Unfortunately, I'm starting to experience some toe pain after my hardest days.

I am looking for suggestions on shoes with very stiff forefoot sections with a soft midfoot. I don't want to go back to the bad old days with a fully rigid shoe that I can't move my ankle in without popping off (like the Boreal Ace or ballet Gold.) The next pair hopefully will be even stiffer than the Katana Laces I am wearing.

FYI, I already have Acopa B3, Scarpa Vapor S, and regular Katana in addition to the above mentioned shoe. I wore and liked the Evolved Pontas Lace-up for edging, didn't like it for heel hooking.

Additionally, I don't wear my shoes crazy tight. Just enough to keep my toes half curled.

Thanks in advance.

8 pairs of shoes and you need another????????

Who needs? It's all about want.


shotwell


Feb 27, 2012, 9:01 AM
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shoo wrote:
shotwell wrote:
Hey all,

I am looking to make an addition to my shoe harem. Being a decent sized dude (175 and 6 feet), I like to wear pretty stiff shoes when I boulder. Warming up I will wear a pretty soft shoe like the Muira or Cobra. Once I'm on to the harder climbs, I have been rocking Katana Laces or Solutions. Unfortunately, I'm starting to experience some toe pain after my hardest days.

I am looking for suggestions on shoes with very stiff forefoot sections with a soft midfoot. I don't want to go back to the bad old days with a fully rigid shoe that I can't move my ankle in without popping off (like the Boreal Ace or ballet Gold.) The next pair hopefully will be even stiffer than the Katana Laces I am wearing.

FYI, I already have Acopa B3, Scarpa Vapor S, and regular Katana in addition to the above mentioned shoe. I wore and liked the Evolved Pontas Lace-up for edging, didn't like it for heel hooking.

Additionally, I don't wear my shoes crazy tight. Just enough to keep my toes half curled.

Thanks in advance.

8 pairs of shoes and you need another????????

That is an incomplete list, as well. I'm no noob, I'm just a guy looking for a pair of shoes with a very specific function. I'm not the kind of person to wear one pair of shoes for every task.

Some of those shoes are for multi-pitch climbing, some are for very overhung climbing, some are for edging, some are for smearing. Some are worn out (and no longer owned), like the Pontas lace-up, some are on their last legs, like the Cobras. Some never fit all that well and were ill-advised.

Turning the corner in my bouldering has forced me to reevaluate a lot of what I do, starting with my likes and dislikes for climbing. Part of the result of improving is that my preference for footwear has changed, leaving me searching for a shoe that doesn't seem to exist. Sorry for spending my disposable income in a way you don't like.

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