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rannix


Jan 23, 2012, 8:48 PM
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This look right?
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this look right?

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n142/Rannix/ANCHORING.jpg


sp115


Jan 23, 2012, 8:51 PM
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Re: [rannix] This look right? [In reply to]
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http://i111.photobucket.com/...Rannix/ANCHORING.jpg

Clicky

And what you have will work, but since you have two bomber bolts why not just use two draws with a clove or figure-8 as your tie-in? Faster and uses less rope.


(This post was edited by sp115 on Jan 23, 2012, 8:57 PM)


rannix


Jan 23, 2012, 9:41 PM
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hmm im having a hard time picturing 2 draws with a clove or figure 8.


sp115


Jan 23, 2012, 9:48 PM
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rannix wrote:
hmm im having a hard time picturing 2 draws with a clove or figure 8.



rannix


Jan 23, 2012, 9:52 PM
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you drew that up pretty quick thanks!

so with that rope going to my harness i can make that as long as i want with a clove hitch right?

problem im having is, this route im trying theres a hanging belay where the climber can easily fall into the belayer and im trying to create distance from belayer and first bolt.


sp115


Jan 23, 2012, 10:07 PM
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Bad form on my part for not providing proper accridation. Here is the original thread: http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

It will contain more information than you need but it covers pretty much every two-bolt anchor option. My guess is you'll read through it all and end up with what I posted above.

As to your question, yes, you can adjust the tie-in distance as you see fit.


rannix


Jan 23, 2012, 10:11 PM
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awesome thanks for the help i appreciate it


Partner j_ung


Jan 24, 2012, 4:55 AM
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Re: [sp115] This look right? [In reply to]
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sp115 wrote:
rannix wrote:
hmm im having a hard time picturing 2 draws with a clove or figure 8.

But don't run your rope through that top biner as your first piece.


sp115


Jan 24, 2012, 5:08 AM
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j_ung wrote:
sp115 wrote:
rannix wrote:
hmm im having a hard time picturing 2 draws with a clove or figure 8.
[image]http://www.home.no/sittingduck/qd_redirect.jpg[/image]

But don't run your rope through that top biner as your first piece.
Yup should have mentioned that...(to the OP - a fall before the first piece was set and clipped would have the rope running over the webbing material of the draw.)


(This post was edited by sp115 on Jan 24, 2012, 5:10 AM)


rannix


Jan 24, 2012, 7:36 PM
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how come you shouldn't run rope through biner as first piece?


notapplicable


Jan 24, 2012, 8:31 PM
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Looks unnecessarily complex.


jt512


Jan 24, 2012, 10:36 PM
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sp115 wrote:
 . . . proper accridation.

Die, false grammar Nazi, die.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jan 24, 2012, 10:37 PM)


sp115


Jan 25, 2012, 4:26 AM
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jt512 wrote:
sp115 wrote:
 . . . proper accridation.

Die, false grammar Nazi, die.

Jay

Ugh, I give up.*












*shame


Partner j_ung


Jan 25, 2012, 11:11 AM
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Re: [rannix] This look right? [In reply to]
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rannix wrote:
how come you shouldn't run rope through biner as first piece?

In that diagram, a fall onto the top piece will have the loaded rope running over the nylon sling. The nylon sling won't likely survive the encounter unscathed.


bearbreeder


Jan 25, 2012, 12:22 PM
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Re: [rannix] This look right? [In reply to]
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yr original setup will work fine ... my only suggestion would be to use all cloves instead of fig8s ... on dynamic rope cloves slipping shouldnt be an issue under a supervised belay ...and itll make it easier to set up and take down

its actually a fairly common method to anchor in with the rope ... clove the rope to the 2 anchor biners, and then fig8/clove the loop between them as a masterpoint ... you can adjust the length away from the anchor by cloving in the master biner and adjusting slack out of the rope ...

dont worry too much about what RCers say .. even if you made the "perfect" anchor theyd still tell you it sucks ... as said yr anchor is a fairly standard way of anchoring in with the rope on 2 pieces
Tongue

edit ... oh and DO clip into the anchor bolt at the belay with a separate draw ... what you DONT want is a fall off the belay without something in ....


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Jan 25, 2012, 12:34 PM)


rannix


Jan 25, 2012, 10:43 PM
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thank you for the tip

and when you say to clip into the anchor with a seperate draw what if i want to be below the masterpoint?

is it ok to just be clove hitched into the anchor carabiner with a long space so im below the master point


bearbreeder


Jan 26, 2012, 1:57 AM
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im out climbing the next few days ... ill see if i get the chance to take some photos on real rock ...

if i forget ... basically you

1. put a biner/draw in each bolt ...

2. clove the rope to one bolt ... then the other with a sufficient rope length in between

3. clove or fig 8 the rope between the 2 cloves to a master point locker

4. if you want you can clove yr rope into the master point biner ... alternatively, you could have just cloved yr first biner with a bit of extra length between you and that biner, if you dont mind being offset to one side .... either way you can end up below the master point should you want ... there are also ways you can lower off the master with a munter an tie it off when belaying ....

5. i very recommend that the leader clip though a draw on one of the bolts as the first "piece" to prevent a factor 2 ...

there are many ways to build a fast anchor sport climbing ... my personal favorite is simply a sliding X on good bolts ... or using a sling and clove hitching a master biner to it as per the petzl literature below (which i highly recommend you read if you are fairly new to multipitch)



http://www.petzl.com/...-catalog-2010-GB.pdf

or you can even use yr PAS clipped to one bolt and the rope cloved to a biner on the other ... just clip the first draw to the bold with the PAS ...

etc ...

the thing to realize is that there are many "safe" and "simple" ways to build an anchor ... especially a sports anchor ... and to be able to recognize such ... and not to go off on other people's techniques unless there is a clear risk

IMO ... people who argue about simple anchors are either true experts like john long ... or people who simply dont do that much and slam other peoples anchors to compensate for their top rope toughness

no one ive climbed with who climbs well and a lot says another persons anchor is shiet unless it truly is "unsafe" ... there too busy climbing
Wink


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Jan 26, 2012, 2:11 AM)


sp115


Jan 26, 2012, 5:46 AM
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rannix wrote:
thank you for the tip

and when you say to clip into the anchor with a seperate draw what if i want to be below the masterpoint?


Bearbreeder's comment was in reference to the leader starting up the next pitch after the second has been brought up, not what you do while initially setting up the anchor.

rannix wrote:
is it ok to just be clove hitched into the anchor carabiner with a long space so im below the master point

Yes, but...


rannix


Jan 29, 2012, 8:09 AM
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thanks for all the info i got a better understanding now. i just did 5 pitchs yesterday and just ended up using the rope with clove hitches and figure 8s as my anchor and there was no problem it went pretty smooth and for the one pitch where the belayer had to be low to avoid climber falling on him, we just clove hitched belayer down and it worked like a charm :) i didnt even fall on my belayer hahah

thanks for all the help guys really appreciate it


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