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WOLF_Larsen85
Jan 30, 2012, 12:01 AM
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Registered: Jan 29, 2012
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Recently got back into bouldering but never made it outdoors. I'm going to Bishop area in May to visit my gf's family, and want to take advantage of the Buttermilks. Any advice on transitioning to outdoors? Also, I live in AK, so getting a few practice runs in is kind of out of the question right now, in this frosty ass -6 degree weather.
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shotwell
Jan 30, 2012, 12:38 AM
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Registered: Jan 6, 2009
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WOLF_Larsen85 wrote: Recently got back into bouldering but never made it outdoors. I'm going to Bishop area in May to visit my gf's family, and want to take advantage of the Buttermilks. Any advice on transitioning to outdoors? Also, I live in AK, so getting a few practice runs in is kind of out of the question right now, in this frosty ass -6 degree weather. The 'milks are likely to be pretty warm in May. If you're in the Bishop area, you might think of looking at the higher elevation areas in the latest guide. As far as prepping for bouldering at the Buttermilks go, be prepared to suffer a bit at first. The stone is very abrasive and will shred your finger tips fairly quickly, especially with soft gym skin on them. Take it easy as you start out and try to build up some thick skin. This will be even tougher in warmer May weather. Finally, learn how to spot and fall with and without a spot. Though not all of the bouldering at the Buttermilks is super tall, a lot of it is tall enough to ruin your day. Being prepared for this is crucial.
(This post was edited by shotwell on Jan 30, 2012, 12:39 AM)
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jae8908
Jan 30, 2012, 2:00 AM
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Registered: May 15, 2011
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WOLF_Larsen85 wrote: Recently got back into bouldering but never made it outdoors. I'm going to Bishop area in May to visit my gf's family, and want to take advantage of the Buttermilks. Any advice on transitioning to outdoors? Also, I live in AK, so getting a few practice runs in is kind of out of the question right now, in this frosty ass -6 degree weather. buy a bar of climb on and apply it generously after climbing. Other than that, just have fun.
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lena_chita
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Jan 30, 2012, 3:17 PM
Post #4 of 4
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
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WOLF_Larsen85 wrote: Recently got back into bouldering but never made it outdoors. I'm going to Bishop area in May to visit my gf's family, and want to take advantage of the Buttermilks. Any advice on transitioning to outdoors? Also, I live in AK, so getting a few practice runs in is kind of out of the question right now, in this frosty ass -6 degree weather. Depending on how hard you climb, and what sort of climbing you prefer, Buttermilks might be frustrating as a first outdoor bouldering experience. The rock is not skin-friendly, there aren't many jughauls, the climbing feels more techy. Make sure you have a good pad, and spotters. Most boulders have a good flat landing spot, which is good, but the moves are big, and you are higher than you expected to be, before you know it. And as others have said, it is likely to be pretty warm in May. You might want to check the Happy/Sad boulders (Volcanic tableland). While it can be warmer there, because the canyon is more sheltered and not as open and windswept as the Buttermilks, you can also find more shady spots in the Sads because there are little walkways between rocks and caves. The rock feels more finger-friendly, and I think the easier grades are more closely resembling gym climbing.
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