The other problem with gyms is how soft everything is. I went to the biggest gym here locally a couple weeks ago, 1400 members, I flashed literally 11 problems in a row, that are usually at my limit when graded accurately. One of them was at the right grade, two of them we're graded one grade harder than they actually we're, the other 8 we're graded two grades harder than they we're.

I feel bad for the gym rats there when they go outside. They will probably think that it's sandbag, lol. Maybe this helps gain membership? lol it really was pathetic

It honestly sounds like your location is a large part of the problem. Sorry to be stereotypical about New Yorkers, but yeah, sounds like NYC kind of thing. (My family lives in NYC, btw, and I visit there regularly, which included visiting the climbing gyms, so I do know what I am talking about. People there are way more uptight and inconsiderate than in other gyms I have visited).

So what can you do, other than the things that you already mentioned, such as doing the training in the off-peak hours, etc.?

I would say, recruit a few friends to do the training with you. If there is one guy trying to do 4x4s, the wall section looks not busy/fair game to others. If you have 2 guys climbing next to each other, and two more standing on the ground cheering and waiting to get on for their turn, you look like a cohesive group, and it is more likely to deter a random guy from jumping in on that section (not to mention the fact that the guys on the ground can do the explaining/ask people to wait).

If you are climbing in a largish gym, talk to the people in charge about setting up a dedicated "training area". It wouldn't have to be large, and it can be roped off, or the signs could be put up, saying that this area is for training, so people who do the training instead of just climbing have preference.
We don't have this luxury in our gym, but one section, containing systems board, campus strips, cracks of various sizes and a hangboard IS a training-gets-preference area. Whenever there are groups of newbies climbing in the gym, the belay staff points out those walls and says something like: on the wall over there, you have to observe special rules. You cannot step on any of the big holds/blocks, feet only go on little holds. And if you see someone there doing laps, make sure you stay out of their way.

The powers that be in your gym might be willing to incorporate "training area" into their wall stripping/route-setting rotation schedule, if you ask them super-nicely. E.g. something like this section of the wall is for training only for 4 weeks, then it gets completely stripped, and the next section becomes training area, to be stripped 4 weeks later.
This may be a long shot, but it wouldn't hurt asking, right? For all you know, maybe the people in charge would actually like the idea of putting a "gym training team" together, specifically for people who want to train.

And beyond these ideas, you can always try setting up your own co-op gym, open only to serious climbers. It would be an investment and a hassle to set it up, but the payback would be good, too.

Well I for one, and I must say most of my friends who climb outdoors with any frequency send harder climbs outdoor then indoors.

Outdoors climbs tend to be less athlethically challenging i.m.h.o..

I boulder harder outside than in the gym, and most of my climbing and 98% of my bouldering is in the gym.

I flashed literally 11 problems in a row, that are usually at my limit when graded accurately. One of them was at the right grade, two of them we're graded one grade harder than they actually we're, the other 8 we're graded two grades harder than they we're.

I'm talking about boulder grades not routes. At my gym the ratings are usually right on, so oc it's some gyms.

The problems we're all rated v8.

I have found it's harder to boulder v10 and above inside in general, but it's easier to boulder in the V8 range, in my experience. So maybe that's what some of you experienced. I couldn't say for the easier grades, as they all seem similar to me, in the gym.

Please: it's not "we're," it's were. WERE. This isn't even a common spelling mistake.

Oh, and why be concerned with grades in a gym? Boulder what is hard for you, whether it's an 8 or a 12.

It's interesting, that's why, if you don't think so, fantastic!

I didn't ask for a spelling lesson champ. Maybe you'd like an etiquette lesson?

I'm talking about boulder grades not routes. At my gym the ratings are usually right on, so oc it's some gyms.

The problems we're all rated v8.
I have found it's harder to boulder v10 and above inside in general, but it's easier to boulder in the V8 range, in my experience. So maybe that's what some of you experienced. I couldn't say for the easier grades, as they all seem similar to me, in the gym.

Sorry, you got a spelling lesson, after I saw that your misspelling was a chronic problem of fundamental ignorance, rather than a simple typo; you spelled it that way at least 4 or 5 times. I mean, seriously, what goes through your brain to ever think that "were" is spelled "we're?" You have to ADD an apostrophe, so it's not even a problem of omitting.

It is "etiquette" to tell people when they're making themselves look like idiots. Kind of like saying, "hey, your zipper's down."

You having period, or what? He pointed out a huge mistake, not even rude, and you go raging. It's kinda like saying the gumby that he treaded his grigri wrong.

[Rant]

Does anyone else feel like they're swimming upstream when trying to train in a commercial gym? I seem to annoy or get annoyed by other people on an almost weekly basis. After a month and a half in the gym, and still a solid month and a half away from Spring climbing, I'm losing hope. For example...

"ARCing" - No fucking way. I only attempt to ARC during off-peak hours, nevertheless there's always some goddamn noob breathing down my neck 10 minutes into the workout. Invariably. Apparently you can run on a treadmill for 20 minutes at every fitness center in the country with no issues, but try to run laps on a 35 foot gym route for 20 minutes and you're an inconsiderate asshole. So I've been told while belaying my partner, and in no uncertain terms. The auto-belay? Forget about it! Noobs (and parents who can't be bothered to learn to belay their kids) are attracted to it like flies to shit. Bonus points for being asked to turn over the auto-belay by a pair of climbers.

4x4's and Roped Laps - They're easier to pull off than an ARC session, but still quite perilous. First off, your chances of actually completing a proper 4x4 with the prescribed rest period are not very good in the typical gym. Even if you let everyone else around you know you'd like to do the workout (which usually requires patiently explaining what the hell a 4x4 is), someone else can always show up and start a boulder problem as soon as you've dropped off the top, mid-set. Then, someone else is on the wall when you should be starting your next set. A partner can help to control traffic, but again, you're doing multiple laps on a route or boulder problem, and the average gym climber can't think of any reason why you'd do that...other than to be a selfish, inconsiderate prick.

Hangboarding/Campusing - Seriously, forget about it. Like interval training, your chances of actually completing your workout with the right rest periods are slim. Give it 5 minutes, tops, until someone comes up and starts doing pullups on the jugs in front of his rental-shoe-clad girlfriend.

But, what can you do? I suppose I could just put in my headphones, crank the volume, and ARC to my heart's delight, protestations be damned. I could try to explain what the hell I'm doing, but I fear I don't have the patience for that. Or I could admit defeat, that the climbing gym isn't really a place to train, that the gym cares more about selling fucking birthday parties than being a place where athletes hone their skills, and that the gym is primarily a playground for non-climbers and children who think it's some kind of adventure.

I'm losing hope, folks. Or, I think I may be understanding, more clearly than ever, just what climbing gyms are all about. Is the spring here yet?

[/Rant]

Pretty much. Well, almost. The place has gone nuts with these "groupons" and "living social" deals and there's a heavy influx of new climbers. And it sucks. The "brahs"/gym rats are not the problem; they know what a 4x4 is.


I'm an apartment dweller.


Yup. I'm leaning towards cranking the iPod and just doing it.


Yes, I know, but it's a tough pill to swallow. In truth, the local gym is really good in terms of terrain and route-setting. The route-setters are all very talented climbers that set hard, creative stuff.

One other idea I had was asking the route-setters to concentrate the more difficult routes and boulder problems in certain areas. If one wall is all V4 and up, or 5.11 and up, it would help tremendously.

Cam, do you talk to folks you don't know like this often? In other words, if they say or type one thing incorrect, do you find it important that you correct them, when you don't know them? Are you sure you don't look like an idiot? I get it, you don't like people who discuss or appear to care about grades, that's ok bro, no biggie.

Maybe give folks a chance before you suffocate them, eh?

Please: it's not "we're," it's were. WERE. This isn't even a common spelling mistake.



Look at the language camhead used. Does this sound like a friendly gesture geared towards being helpful to someone you've never met or had any contact with before? Could he have simply pmed me or did he get some sort of ego boost from this?

We can disagree, just making my point.

One of my businesses, I do financial planning for people. Some of them very smart and successful. It astounds me how absolutely juvenile most people are with their money. Regardless of income or education. I don't attack them, I make suggestions and attempt to help them see the big picture. One of them made 5 mil/year for 7 years and now has 100k to his name.