Feb 7, 2012, 6:05 AM
Post #1 of 1
Registered: Dec 2, 2009
I´m a 30 year old guy from Sweden doing an eight month climbing trip in South America, slowly working my way up from Patagonia, via the Lake District, to Colombia, Peru, Ecuador and finally Bolivia, squeezing in as much rock, ice and snow as I can along the way. I´ll be spending June and July in Huarez, heading up in the Cordillera Blanca mountains as often as I can, and will need a new friend or two, to play in the snow with me!
I mostly do trad- and ice climbing, but I´ve done quite a bit of mountaineering in the past, in places like Dofourspitze, Mt Blanc, Mt Rainier, Aconcagua and the Liskamm traverse. Being a bit bored with easier mountaineering like this I´d like to do mostly routes graded between AD and D+. Safety is my #1 priority, so hotheads need not bother contacting me. Don´t mind early mornings and I´m in pretty good shape for long and fast approaches. Will most likely be acclimatized all the time, from previous peaks, and I havn´t had any problems with altitude in the past, so ideally I would prefer fairly quick ascents.
The underlined routes in the tick list below are my primary interests, although I may also be interested in the ones in brackets, as well as other suggestions too. The routes are mostly on esthetic peaks with relatively short approaches, and more info can be found if you search for them on summitpost.org. Got a single rack, tent, stove, rope and the guidebooks, and will do more research on the peaks as time is moving closer.
If it sounds interesting, check out my profile on mountainproject (http://www.mountainproject.com/u/106846731), send me a message, email me on firstname.lastname@example.org, or add me on facebook.
Sorry for my poor Spanish……:)
TICK LIST CORDILERA BLANCA
Pisco-(F/PD, crevasses, 5800m, long ridge, 3days)
Cholpicalqui (AD/D depending on the glacier. 6300m, easy access, long ridge, very popular)
Alpamayo- (5900m, 5-6h,AD/D, You don´t summit, 7 days ) From same BC:
Quitaraju (6000m,6-8h AD) 8-9 days for both
(Artesonraju- mid Jun- early Aug SE face,best D+, 800m, 2 d appr 5days,7-9h 45-55°) From Same BC:
(Piramide De Garcilaso) ( 5200m, 50-55 degrees ice)
(Paron Grande (5600m, harder than AD, avi, routefinding.))
(Huascaran Sur (PD/AD, 6700m, 6 days, easy ascent, hard icefall approach) same high camp at 5200 as:
(Huascaran Norte (PD/AD 6700m))
(Huandoy Norte (AD/D, 6400m, 7 days)
(Ranrapalca (D, 6days, 6100m))
(No Huapi (5400m F, 3 days)
(Urus (5500m F) From same BC:
(Ishinca (5500m F, 3 days for both))
(Huisca Tuco (Easy access 1-2 days, around 5400m, F) from same BC:
(Pastoruri (Easy access 1-2 days, around 5400m, F))