Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners:
Best first lead routes - Northeast
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Beginners

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


donwanadi


Feb 8, 2012, 11:29 AM
Post #1 of 29 (3177 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 19, 2011
Posts: 170

Best first lead routes - Northeast
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Title says it all. What do you think are the best routes to start leading in the northeast US? Sport or Trad.

"First Lead Wall" in the Chapel Pond Pass looks pretty good with 3 or 4 single pitch G rated route under 5.7.


smallclimber


Feb 8, 2012, 12:40 PM
Post #2 of 29 (3138 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 11, 2003
Posts: 301

Re: [donwanadi] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Lots of classics in the 5.3 - 5.4 range in the Gunks. Also gives you the chance to "practise" multi pitch (interim anchors, belaying the second from above, appropriate communication, rapelling etc) on relatively easy climbs.


markc


Feb 8, 2012, 1:38 PM
Post #3 of 29 (3110 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2475

Re: [smallclimber] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In addition to the Gunks, I'd add Seneca as a traditional multipitch destination that has a high number of quality easy and moderate routes.


johnwesely


Feb 8, 2012, 2:44 PM
Post #4 of 29 (3088 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 5343

Re: [donwanadi] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

At the Gunks:

Easy Overhang if you are really new or High Exposure if you have a little bit of experience.


gblauer
Moderator

Feb 8, 2012, 3:01 PM
Post #5 of 29 (3083 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 3, 2002
Posts: 2814

Re: [johnwesely] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ping me if you are headed to the gunks. Regrettably, I know every easy climb all too well.


johnwesely


Feb 8, 2012, 3:02 PM
Post #6 of 29 (3082 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 5343

Re: [gblauer] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Come on, you know the easy climbs are super fun.


rocknice2


Feb 8, 2012, 5:02 PM
Post #7 of 29 (3035 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 13, 2006
Posts: 1203

Re: [johnwesely] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

johnwesely wrote:
At the Gunks:

Easy Overhang if you are really new or High Exposure if you have a little bit of experience.

Great route.
As a 1st lead .... very bad idea

Stick to easy single pitch where you can hang out all day if needed so you can take your time to place bomber gear.
Once your proficient at placing bomber gear then go do some thing harder or pumpier.

Don't push two edges of the envelope. Your first edge is place gear.


sp115


Feb 8, 2012, 5:39 PM
Post #8 of 29 (3022 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 17, 2007
Posts: 515

Re: [rocknice2] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rocknice2 wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
At the Gunks:

Easy Overhang if you are really new or High Exposure if you have a little bit of experience.

Great route.
As a 1st lead .... very bad idea

Stick to easy single pitch where you can hang out all day if needed so you can take your time to place bomber gear.
Once your proficient at placing bomber gear then go do some thing harder or pumpier.

Don't push two edges of the envelope. Your first edge is place gear.
+1 to all this, especially that High E is not a good beginning leader route.
Upper Refuse and Thin Air on Cathedral ledge. The first 5 pitches of the Standard Route on Whitehorse. A couple of nice short routes on Echo Crag in Franconia Notch. Also a few 5.4's on Ragged Cliff in CT. All good stuff to learn the gear without the stress of pumping out.


shockabuku


Feb 8, 2012, 7:13 PM
Post #9 of 29 (2997 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4860

Re: [donwanadi] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

donwanadi wrote:
Title says it all. What do you think are the best routes to start leading in the northeast US? Sport or Trad.

"First Lead Wall" in the Chapel Pond Pass looks pretty good with 3 or 4 single pitch G rated route under 5.7.

Almost anywhere there is climbing 5.7 and below. I don't think for your first leads you need stellar quality climbs - you need relatively safe climbs within your ability range.


veilneb


Feb 8, 2012, 10:45 PM
Post #10 of 29 (2975 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 11, 2001
Posts: 189

Re: [sp115] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

High Exposure was my first trad lead. My climbing partner told me it was easy....


sbaclimber


Feb 9, 2012, 1:32 AM
Post #11 of 29 (2962 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 21, 2004
Posts: 3075

Re: [donwanadi] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

donwanadi wrote:
Title says it all. What do you think are the best routes to start leading in the northeast US? Sport or Trad.

"First Lead Wall" in the Chapel Pond Pass looks pretty good with 3 or 4 single pitch G rated route under 5.7.
While you're there...
CP Slab - Regular Route (the runout sections aren't even 5th Class)
Creature Wall - pretty much any of the cracks are G
Beer Walls - Seven Ounces and5.4, Labatt-Ami

Bit further away.... Roger's Rock - Little Finger

EDIT: seeing as you are looking for "first leads", I should mention that CPS and RR are multi-pitch. You should only tackle these if you know how to build your own belay anchors!


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Feb 12, 2012, 12:19 PM)


bearbreeder


Feb 9, 2012, 1:45 AM
Post #12 of 29 (2957 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [donwanadi] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i have no idea about routes in the NE ...

but what i will say is that if yr doing yr first lead ... you do it with someone whos done it before

they should have an idea of what are good easy beginner leads, and what are runnout X rated routes ...

also youll need someone to follow you and check yr placements ....


sp115


Feb 9, 2012, 4:45 AM
Post #13 of 29 (2935 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 17, 2007
Posts: 515

Re: [veilneb] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

veilneb wrote:
High Exposure was my first trad lead. My climbing partner told me it was easy....

Heh, heh, your partner was a dick...


johnwesely


Feb 9, 2012, 4:56 AM
Post #14 of 29 (2921 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 5343

Re: [sp115] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sp115 wrote:
veilneb wrote:
High Exposure was my first trad lead. My climbing partner told me it was easy....

Heh, heh, your partner was a dick...

The gear is insanely good, and if you are someone who has been seconding a while and has done a little bit of ground school, I don't see any reason why your first lead shouldn't be a really cool experience at a mellow grade. I am not recommending this for someone who is at their limit seconding 5.8 but for someone who maybe started in the gym or has been climbing for a while and will find High E technically easy.


bill413


Feb 9, 2012, 7:51 AM
Post #15 of 29 (2877 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674

Re: [johnwesely] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

One nice thing about the Gunks (and some other areas) is that if you really screw up, help and some advice is not that far away.


olderic


Feb 9, 2012, 7:55 AM
Post #16 of 29 (2872 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1536

Re: [bill413] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

bill413 wrote:
One nice thing about the Gunks (and some other areas) is that if you really screw up, help and some advice is not that far away.

Regardless if it is needed, wsnted, useful or accurate.


shockabuku


Feb 9, 2012, 9:46 AM
Post #17 of 29 (2834 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4860

Re: [veilneb] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

veilneb wrote:
High Exposure was my first trad lead. My climbing partner told me it was easy....

I agree with your partner. But "easy" is a relative term.


Gmburns2000


Feb 9, 2012, 12:23 PM
Post #18 of 29 (2798 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15152

Re: [sp115] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sp115 wrote:
rocknice2 wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
At the Gunks:

Easy Overhang if you are really new or High Exposure if you have a little bit of experience.

Great route.
As a 1st lead .... very bad idea

Stick to easy single pitch where you can hang out all day if needed so you can take your time to place bomber gear.
Once your proficient at placing bomber gear then go do some thing harder or pumpier.

Don't push two edges of the envelope. Your first edge is place gear.
+1 to all this, especially that High E is not a good beginning leader route.
Upper Refuse and Thin Air on Cathedral ledge. The first 5 pitches of the Standard Route on Whitehorse. A couple of nice short routes on Echo Crag in Franconia Notch. Also a few 5.4's on Ragged Cliff in CT. All good stuff to learn the gear without the stress of pumping out.

Actually, considering that both Upper Refuse and Thin Air are really runout at the start, I'd stay away from both of them as first routes, too. Yes, they're easy, but Upper Refuse doesn't have much reasonable gear before the first anchor, and Thin Air has virtually none before the traverse.


edge


Feb 9, 2012, 12:45 PM
Post #19 of 29 (2780 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9100

Re: [Gmburns2000] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Gmburns2000 wrote:
sp115 wrote:
rocknice2 wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
At the Gunks:

Easy Overhang if you are really new or High Exposure if you have a little bit of experience.

Great route.
As a 1st lead .... very bad idea

Stick to easy single pitch where you can hang out all day if needed so you can take your time to place bomber gear.
Once your proficient at placing bomber gear then go do some thing harder or pumpier.

Don't push two edges of the envelope. Your first edge is place gear.
+1 to all this, especially that High E is not a good beginning leader route.
Upper Refuse and Thin Air on Cathedral ledge. The first 5 pitches of the Standard Route on Whitehorse. A couple of nice short routes on Echo Crag in Franconia Notch. Also a few 5.4's on Ragged Cliff in CT. All good stuff to learn the gear without the stress of pumping out.

Actually, considering that both Upper Refuse and Thin Air are really runout at the start, I'd stay away from both of them as first routes, too. Yes, they're easy, but Upper Refuse doesn't have much reasonable gear before the first anchor, and Thin Air has virtually none before the traverse.

Both of those routes do have gear early on, but it's a bit fiddly and probably not obvious for a beginning leader. In the North Conway area, I would recommend Childs Play on Cathedral and the first pitch of Beelzebub on Whitehorse as better alternatives.


sp115


Feb 9, 2012, 1:58 PM
Post #20 of 29 (2756 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 17, 2007
Posts: 515

Re: [edge] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

edge wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
sp115 wrote:
rocknice2 wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
At the Gunks:

Easy Overhang if you are really new or High Exposure if you have a little bit of experience.

Great route.
As a 1st lead .... very bad idea

Stick to easy single pitch where you can hang out all day if needed so you can take your time to place bomber gear.
Once your proficient at placing bomber gear then go do some thing harder or pumpier.

Don't push two edges of the envelope. Your first edge is place gear.
+1 to all this, especially that High E is not a good beginning leader route.
Upper Refuse and Thin Air on Cathedral ledge. The first 5 pitches of the Standard Route on Whitehorse. A couple of nice short routes on Echo Crag in Franconia Notch. Also a few 5.4's on Ragged Cliff in CT. All good stuff to learn the gear without the stress of pumping out.

Actually, considering that both Upper Refuse and Thin Air are really runout at the start, I'd stay away from both of them as first routes, too. Yes, they're easy, but Upper Refuse doesn't have much reasonable gear before the first anchor, and Thin Air has virtually none before the traverse.

Both of those routes do have gear early on, but it's a bit fiddly and probably not obvious for a beginning leader. In the North Conway area, I would recommend Childs Play on Cathedral and the first pitch of Beelzebub on Whitehorse as better alternatives.

Actually there is gear on the left side of the start of Upper Refuse. Nobody ever places it because it the start is basically 5.1. Thin Air is more run out, but again, the climbing is what, 5.2?

So I'm guessing we probably all agree that you shouldn't push the grade and the gear at the same time, but if a new leader isn't comfortable on 5.2, maybe leading isn't the best decision.


johnwesely


Feb 9, 2012, 3:10 PM
Post #21 of 29 (2732 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 5343

Re: [sp115] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sp115 wrote:
edge wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
sp115 wrote:
rocknice2 wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
At the Gunks:

Easy Overhang if you are really new or High Exposure if you have a little bit of experience.

Great route.
As a 1st lead .... very bad idea

Stick to easy single pitch where you can hang out all day if needed so you can take your time to place bomber gear.
Once your proficient at placing bomber gear then go do some thing harder or pumpier.

Don't push two edges of the envelope. Your first edge is place gear.
+1 to all this, especially that High E is not a good beginning leader route.
Upper Refuse and Thin Air on Cathedral ledge. The first 5 pitches of the Standard Route on Whitehorse. A couple of nice short routes on Echo Crag in Franconia Notch. Also a few 5.4's on Ragged Cliff in CT. All good stuff to learn the gear without the stress of pumping out.

Actually, considering that both Upper Refuse and Thin Air are really runout at the start, I'd stay away from both of them as first routes, too. Yes, they're easy, but Upper Refuse doesn't have much reasonable gear before the first anchor, and Thin Air has virtually none before the traverse.

Both of those routes do have gear early on, but it's a bit fiddly and probably not obvious for a beginning leader. In the North Conway area, I would recommend Childs Play on Cathedral and the first pitch of Beelzebub on Whitehorse as better alternatives.

Actually there is gear on the left side of the start of Upper Refuse. Nobody ever places it because it the start is basically 5.1. Thin Air is more run out, but again, the climbing is what, 5.2?

So I'm guessing we probably all agree that you shouldn't push the grade and the gear at the same time, but if a new leader isn't comfortable on 5.2, maybe leading isn't the best decision.

IMO, part of a first lead is that is should have lots of gear to place for practice and to be critiqued.


sp115


Feb 9, 2012, 3:48 PM
Post #22 of 29 (2723 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 17, 2007
Posts: 515

Re: [johnwesely] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

johnwesely wrote:
sp115 wrote:
edge wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
sp115 wrote:
rocknice2 wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
At the Gunks:

Easy Overhang if you are really new or High Exposure if you have a little bit of experience.

Great route.
As a 1st lead .... very bad idea

Stick to easy single pitch where you can hang out all day if needed so you can take your time to place bomber gear.
Once your proficient at placing bomber gear then go do some thing harder or pumpier.

Don't push two edges of the envelope. Your first edge is place gear.
+1 to all this, especially that High E is not a good beginning leader route.
Upper Refuse and Thin Air on Cathedral ledge. The first 5 pitches of the Standard Route on Whitehorse. A couple of nice short routes on Echo Crag in Franconia Notch. Also a few 5.4's on Ragged Cliff in CT. All good stuff to learn the gear without the stress of pumping out.

Actually, considering that both Upper Refuse and Thin Air are really runout at the start, I'd stay away from both of them as first routes, too. Yes, they're easy, but Upper Refuse doesn't have much reasonable gear before the first anchor, and Thin Air has virtually none before the traverse.

Both of those routes do have gear early on, but it's a bit fiddly and probably not obvious for a beginning leader. In the North Conway area, I would recommend Childs Play on Cathedral and the first pitch of Beelzebub on Whitehorse as better alternatives.

Actually there is gear on the left side of the start of Upper Refuse. Nobody ever places it because it the start is basically 5.1. Thin Air is more run out, but again, the climbing is what, 5.2?

So I'm guessing we probably all agree that you shouldn't push the grade and the gear at the same time, but if a new leader isn't comfortable on 5.2, maybe leading isn't the best decision.

IMO, part of a first lead is that is should have lots of gear to place for practice and to be critiqued.

I don't disagree with this at all, so in the spirit of compromise I'll ammend my recommendations to exclude the first pitch of Thin Air (my first lead, btw...).


blueeyedclimber


Feb 13, 2012, 7:12 AM
Post #23 of 29 (2566 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602

Re: [donwanadi] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

donwanadi wrote:
Title says it all. What do you think are the best routes to start leading in the northeast US? Sport or Trad.

"First Lead Wall" in the Chapel Pond Pass looks pretty good with 3 or 4 single pitch G rated route under 5.7.

Do you have any experience leading or will this be your first? If so how much?

Sport in the NE: Get yourself to Rumney. Hundreds of climbs from 5.2 to 5.14d. That'll keep you busy for a while.

Trad single pitch: The Gunks or Echo crag in Franconia Notch in NH. If you're closer to the GUnks then go there. Echo is a nice beginning Trad area though as it has a plethora of easy single pitch routes.

Trad Multi-pitch: Once you have experience placing gear, setting anchors, rope management, etc., you should be ready to attempt your first multipitch. The Gunks are a good area because it is no more than 3 or 4 pitches and has really easy climbing that is still good. Another recommendation is something that was already mentioned, Standard Route on Whitehorse ledge. You can do up to 5 pitches and rappel or go to the top at about 8 or 9 pitches.

Josh


donwanadi


Feb 13, 2012, 7:36 AM
Post #24 of 29 (2558 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 19, 2011
Posts: 170

Re: [blueeyedclimber] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

This would be my first time. I've been doing ground school for the past month or so when out TRing and aided up a few short pitches while protected by TR (solo).

l feel ready to lead but it seems prudent to spend a day with a guide for the first time for both trad and aid.

I'm looking for inspiration to get in a lot of very easy stuff afterward before I start working up the grades.


Partner cracklover


Feb 13, 2012, 8:48 AM
Post #25 of 29 (2541 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10010

Re: [donwanadi] Best first lead routes - Northeast [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

donwanadi wrote:
This would be my first time. I've been doing ground school for the past month or so when out TRing and aided up a few short pitches while protected by TR (solo).

l feel ready to lead but it seems prudent to spend a day with a guide for the first time for both trad and aid.

I'm looking for inspiration to get in a lot of very easy stuff afterward before I start working up the grades.

If you're looking to spend a day with a guide, you couldn't do better than go hang with Marc Chauvin in North Conway.

Cheers,

GO

First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Information : Beginners

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook