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training variables and bouldering
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noahfor


Jan 28, 2012, 12:35 AM
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training variables and bouldering
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When I used to lift weights, I experienced first-hand the difference that planned, deliberate, informed manipulation of training variables can have on progress compared to haphazard training, even when decent knowledge of training variables is possessed. There are magic set, rep, and frequency schemes that allow you to make and maintain progress far longer and faster than other very similar routines, and if you don't know what they are it might seem like making progress is impossible. But, once you are aware of how to manipulate training volume, intensity, exercise selection, rest periods, and rest days, progress can be predicted and expected. Without this knowledge, progress just seems to happen when it wants to.

When it comes to climbing, I know nothing about manipulating the variables. I just boulder as hard as I can, for as long as I can, as frequently as possible without getting tired or hurt. But, I feel like I'm just waiting around for progress to happen, instead of knowing when and why it should happen.

Does anyone have any ideas about how the body responds to certain intensities and volumes of boulder problems? Does anyone know of any way to use bouldering as a training tool in a more organized fashion than just going and working on some problems?


(This post was edited by noahfor on Jan 28, 2012, 12:38 AM)


sungam


Jan 28, 2012, 6:03 AM
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Re: [noahfor] training variables and bouldering [In reply to]
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Instead of telling you the stuff that pops to the top of my head, here are some sources:
http://www.nicros.com/training/

http://www.planetfear.com/articles.archive.php (search for training articles)

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ockprodigy__258.html

Also check out "The Self Coached Climber" http://www.amazon.co.uk/...rmance/dp/0811733394

The authors also have a kinda blog thing going on : http://www.selfcoachedclimber.com/.

Hope this helps, train hard.


noahfor


Jan 30, 2012, 10:03 PM
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Re: [sungam] training variables and bouldering [In reply to]
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That's a lot to look over. Thanks a lot.


sungam


Jan 31, 2012, 2:18 AM
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Re: [noahfor] training variables and bouldering [In reply to]
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noahfor wrote:
That's a lot to look over. Thanks a lot.
No problem. Be very careful not to over do it. Getting an injury is easy, getting over one isn't. It could push back your training for months and months. If in doubt, take it easy.


flesh


Jan 31, 2012, 3:22 PM
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Re: [sungam] training variables and bouldering [In reply to]
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http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/themag/beta/workshop_43_-_periodized_training/

This guys legit, dont alot of v13 locally.

Also, i have a thread on my favorite campus techinque, it has a lil video tutorial, check it out.

To echo sungam, the number one thing I'd watch out for is not to power crimp too often, it's the surest way to injury and regression. Even if it's what your best at, minimize it and save it for outside, where you'll frequently have to due to the nature of difficult climbing outside being more crimpy.


(This post was edited by flesh on Jan 31, 2012, 3:30 PM)


ceebo


Feb 9, 2012, 2:06 PM
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Re: [flesh] training variables and bouldering [In reply to]
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flesh wrote:
http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/themag/beta/workshop_43_-_periodized_training/

This guys legit, dont alot of v13 locally.

Also, i have a thread on my favorite campus techinque, it has a lil video tutorial, check it out.

To echo sungam, the number one thing I'd watch out for is not to power crimp too often, it's the surest way to injury and regression. Even if it's what your best at, minimize it and save it for outside, where you'll frequently have to due to the nature of difficult climbing outside being more crimpy.

This i have to question. From what i learned diff finger positions do not pass over to others, as in open/full crimp etc.

Does the stress areas on the tendons with open hand not differ to the stresses at play with full crimp?.

I just ask this becuase i wonder if a person is doing themself more harm by not maintining ''some'' level of full crimping in their training. If all you do is open hand your way to v12.. does that means you can then just go outside and RAWW boulder a v12 crimp fest?. Are the tendons even remotely prepared to do that under the always open hand while training advice?.

Don't take offence to the question, i just have a sneaky feeling that totaly ignoring full and even half crimp in trainin is not a massavely wise move.


flesh


Feb 9, 2012, 11:01 PM
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Re: [ceebo] training variables and bouldering [In reply to]
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If your question is do you need to power crimp frequently to boulder v12 crimp problems, the answer is yes. If you question is can you climb harder than v12 while rarely crimping, the answer is yes.

I can't crimp at a high level, v10 and up, consistently, without getting injured. Also, I've found that when I do, my fingers hurt, because they hurt, I don't climb as hard or as well. Cumatively, for me, this seems to slow progress.

I think it's a mistake for climbers new to the sport to focus on crimping, they should be 90% open or relatively easy crimping. Over time, if you pay attention to your body and not try to rush things, it will become clear whether or not your connective tissue can handle regular crimping at your limit. IMO, this takes years, maybe five or more of consistent climbing and deliberation.


granite_grrl


Feb 10, 2012, 7:24 AM
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Re: [flesh] training variables and bouldering [In reply to]
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flesh wrote:
http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/themag/beta/workshop_43_-_periodized_training/

This guys legit, dont alot of v13 locally.

Also, i have a thread on my favorite campus techinque, it has a lil video tutorial, check it out.

To echo sungam, the number one thing I'd watch out for is not to power crimp too often, it's the surest way to injury and regression. Even if it's what your best at, minimize it and save it for outside, where you'll frequently have to due to the nature of difficult climbing outside being more crimpy.

I don't think Magnus mentioned anything about "power crimping"......


ceebo


Feb 11, 2012, 2:53 PM
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Re: [flesh] training variables and bouldering [In reply to]
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flesh wrote:
If your question is do you need to power crimp frequently to boulder v12 crimp problems, the answer is yes. If you question is can you climb harder than v12 while rarely crimping, the answer is yes.

I can't crimp at a high level, v10 and up, consistently, without getting injured. Also, I've found that when I do, my fingers hurt, because they hurt, I don't climb as hard or as well. Cumatively, for me, this seems to slow progress.

I think it's a mistake for climbers new to the sport to focus on crimping, they should be 90% open or relatively easy crimping. Over time, if you pay attention to your body and not try to rush things, it will become clear whether or not your connective tissue can handle regular crimping at your limit. IMO, this takes years, maybe five or more of consistent climbing and deliberation.

Is it actualy possible a person can be at less risk of injury in full/half crimps than open hand?. Its kinde weird since i can full crimp power house moves with just a little disconfort on the end bone joints.. yet when i open hand some moves i get a very bad feeling in my finger tendons, like they are being stretched to snaping point.

This mostly occurs when im on a real body tension sloper when i will have to weight a open hand while moving the next up slowly. In comparison i can full/half crimp something under the same weight and it does nt feel like im about to rip a tendon open.


flesh


Feb 11, 2012, 10:19 PM
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Re: [ceebo] training variables and bouldering [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:
flesh wrote:
If your question is do you need to power crimp frequently to boulder v12 crimp problems, the answer is yes. If you question is can you climb harder than v12 while rarely crimping, the answer is yes.

I can't crimp at a high level, v10 and up, consistently, without getting injured. Also, I've found that when I do, my fingers hurt, because they hurt, I don't climb as hard or as well. Cumatively, for me, this seems to slow progress.

I think it's a mistake for climbers new to the sport to focus on crimping, they should be 90% open or relatively easy crimping. Over time, if you pay attention to your body and not try to rush things, it will become clear whether or not your connective tissue can handle regular crimping at your limit. IMO, this takes years, maybe five or more of consistent climbing and deliberation.

Is it actualy possible a person can be at less risk of injury in full/half crimps than open hand?. Its kinde weird since i can full crimp power house moves with just a little disconfort on the end bone joints.. yet when i open hand some moves i get a very bad feeling in my finger tendons, like they are being stretched to snaping point.

This mostly occurs when im on a real body tension sloper when i will have to weight a open hand while moving the next up slowly. In comparison i can full/half crimp something under the same weight and it does nt feel like im about to rip a tendon open.

I'm sure it's possible. I know a couple peeps that have issues with open handing, they are far outweighed by those who suffer injuries from power crimping. If it hurts, don't do it, give it rest and time, and stregthen the opposing muscle groups.


ceebo


Feb 12, 2012, 2:36 PM
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Re: [flesh] training variables and bouldering [In reply to]
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flesh wrote:
ceebo wrote:
flesh wrote:
If your question is do you need to power crimp frequently to boulder v12 crimp problems, the answer is yes. If you question is can you climb harder than v12 while rarely crimping, the answer is yes.

I can't crimp at a high level, v10 and up, consistently, without getting injured. Also, I've found that when I do, my fingers hurt, because they hurt, I don't climb as hard or as well. Cumatively, for me, this seems to slow progress.

I think it's a mistake for climbers new to the sport to focus on crimping, they should be 90% open or relatively easy crimping. Over time, if you pay attention to your body and not try to rush things, it will become clear whether or not your connective tissue can handle regular crimping at your limit. IMO, this takes years, maybe five or more of consistent climbing and deliberation.

Is it actualy possible a person can be at less risk of injury in full/half crimps than open hand?. Its kinde weird since i can full crimp power house moves with just a little disconfort on the end bone joints.. yet when i open hand some moves i get a very bad feeling in my finger tendons, like they are being stretched to snaping point.

This mostly occurs when im on a real body tension sloper when i will have to weight a open hand while moving the next up slowly. In comparison i can full/half crimp something under the same weight and it does nt feel like im about to rip a tendon open.

I'm sure it's possible. I know a couple peeps that have issues with open handing, they are far outweighed by those who suffer injuries from power crimping. If it hurts, don't do it, give it rest and time, and stregthen the opposing muscle groups.

Was that off training general advice or is their some spacific off training that helps avoid finger injury?.


(This post was edited by ceebo on Feb 12, 2012, 4:02 PM)


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