|
bradhill
Jan 7, 2003, 5:04 PM
Post #1 of 9
(1302 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 486
|
It's actually old news now, but I haven't seen it announced here yet. Barry Blanchard et al have put up a new route on the Emperor Face of Mt Robson, the first successful climb of the face in over 20 years! 3 days, 2200 Meters VI WI5 M5 5.9
[ This Message was edited by: bradhill on 2003-01-07 17:13 ]
|
|
|
|
|
bradhill
Jan 7, 2003, 5:11 PM
Post #2 of 9
(1302 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 486
|
And, holyfrigginsh*t, Phillipe Tronc Pellet climbed LEASHLESS. On a friggin 2200 meter Grade VI route. And he DROPPED A TOOL. One of the seconds had to follow with one tool for half the route. Insane. Totally insane.
[ This Message was edited by: bradhill on 2003-01-07 17:13 ]
|
|
|
|
|
pbjosh
Jan 7, 2003, 5:24 PM
Post #3 of 9
(1302 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 1518
|
Well the third ascent of the Emperor Face is certainly f*cking insane, congrats all around.
But climbing leashless? I just don't see how it's warranted on a climb like that.
Like the Petzl DVD that came w/ Climbing recently - a bunch of those guys were climbing the weeping wall and Polar Circus leashless and many w/ out hammerheads (ie, superlightweight, hard to swing tools).
josh
|
|
|
|
|
sizzlechest
Jan 7, 2003, 5:58 PM
Post #4 of 9
(1302 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 23, 2001
Posts: 139
|
yeah, congrats to those guys, patience is a great name for it, I saw Steve House's slides on it (he was on previous attempts), all in all looks like an awesome climb in an incredible setting, if anyone gets the chance cruise up to the Icefields Parkway or Robson past Jasper, the setting is absolutely WorldClass, I'm lucky it's my backyard !!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
micronut
Jan 7, 2003, 6:44 PM
Post #5 of 9
(1302 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 11, 2002
Posts: 1760
|
Holy friq!~ That is so sick. It took Mugs Stump like 4 tries to get up that face.
|
|
|
|
|
climber1
Jan 7, 2003, 10:36 PM
Post #6 of 9
(1302 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2000
Posts: 484
|
Barry is one hard core dude.
|
|
|
|
|
mountrobson
Jan 8, 2003, 10:18 AM
Post #7 of 9
(1302 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 32
|
Anybody know where I can see an online pic of the route?
|
|
|
|
|
coconutz
Jan 12, 2003, 9:51 PM
Post #8 of 9
(1302 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 18, 2002
Posts: 78
|
Check the new issue of Rock & Ice. They have a half page write up and a pick/overlay of the route. Goes up the right side of the face.
|
|
|
|
|
bradhill
Jan 13, 2003, 8:45 AM
Post #9 of 9
(1302 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 486
|
Yeah, but the photo is WRONG. It shows the route going up the Emperor Ridge. The topo indicates that, upon reaching the ridge, they did an 800m traverse all the way to the Wishbone Arete. It's what the route is named after!
Anyway, because of this, you won't see any one photo of the whole route because it covers two different aspects of the peak.
|
|
|
|
|
|
