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eh57393
Feb 17, 2012, 1:21 AM
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So I have a 70 m and 50 m rope to climb Unimpeachable Groping. As the guide suggests, I'm going to rap down Power Failure, which includes two 160' pitches. That is just about dead even with the length of my 50 m rope. First off, can those with experience on this route comment on whether or not the anchors are a straight shot down, or will require some swinging? Otherwise, I could Ideally ride it out until I get to the knot on my 50 m and then continue passing the 70 m only through the ATC. I've practiced this, and it seems super-slow (and impossible with a prusik). Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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majid_sabet
Feb 17, 2012, 1:33 AM
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your dynamic rope (assuming you are using one)will stretch another 5-10 feet once you are near the end of the rap.
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rocknice2
Feb 17, 2012, 1:46 AM
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Put a knot on each rope end and you can go 60m.
Just make sure the 70 is though the anchor and use a metal ring. Not over webbing or cord. this will get cut as the rope pulls the 10m through the anchor.
70-10 & 50+10 = 60m.
Repeat for the 2nd rap.
The 70 must be threaded through the anchor
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TarheelJD
Feb 17, 2012, 3:13 AM
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Alternatively, you could set up the rappel such that the ends of the two ropes are roughly even to start and use it as an opportunity to practice passing a knot. I would personally be less comfortable trying to feed the rope while at a knot at the end of the rope through an anchor that is ~50m away with a knot in one strand. Not familiar with the rap in question but this would be less of an issue if it's a clean rap. Stuck ropes suck.
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USnavy
Feb 17, 2012, 6:38 AM
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I have climbed the route. I just rapped the actual line. It wonders a tad bit, but I dont remember it being that bad. Anyway I know you cannot easily rap the line with a single 70m. The party that was going down when we got to the bottom of the line had a 70m and they said it really sucked to rap without two ropes. However I do think you can rap the line with two 50's (which is basically what you have). I had two 60s and I do not remember any rope stretching raps, there was always more than enough rope. But this is for rapping the actual line, I dont know about Power Failure.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Feb 17, 2012, 6:41 AM)
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USnavy
Feb 17, 2012, 6:53 AM
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rocknice2 wrote: Put a knot on each rope end and you can go 60m. Just make sure the 70 is though the anchor and use a metal ring. Not over webbing or cord. this will get cut as the rope pulls the 10m through the anchor. 70-10 & 50+10 = 60m. Repeat for the 2nd rap. The 70 must be threaded through the anchor
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healyje
Feb 17, 2012, 10:24 AM
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This has all the makings of an incredibly bad idea...
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jolery
Feb 17, 2012, 6:50 PM
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eh57393 wrote: So I have a 70 m and 50 m rope to climb Unimpeachable Groping. As the guide suggests, I'm going to rap down Power Failure, which includes two 160' pitches. That is just about dead even with the length of my 50 m rope. First off, can those with experience on this route comment on whether or not the anchors are a straight shot down, or will require some swinging? Otherwise, I could Ideally ride it out until I get to the knot on my 50 m and then continue passing the 70 m only through the ATC. I've practiced this, and it seems super-slow (and impossible with a prusik). Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Are your rope diameters the same? Unequal rope diameters can result in the smaller strand running through the anchor more quickly - not the end of the world if you knot your ends, but will require unweighting the rope to equalize it again. Prevent it by ensuring the knot tying the two ropes is on the small rope side of the anchor.
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eh57393
Feb 18, 2012, 2:26 PM
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Yes, rope diameters are the same. And this is all precautionary. I don't anticipate needing to feed additional slack from the 70 m, but I'm just trying to cross my t's and dot my i's.
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