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Poll: Multi-pitch climbing
Yes 13 / 81%
No 3 / 19%
16 total votes
 

Joho


Feb 19, 2012, 8:39 PM
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Registered: Feb 19, 2012
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Multi-pitch climbing
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Hey guys, I was wondering if I need to get proper instruction on how to multi-pitch climb. I'm already pretty good at lead climbing and have looked at a few books and websites on how to multi-pitch climb and how to build anchors. Thanks for any replies!


theextremist04


Feb 19, 2012, 8:44 PM
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Registered: Oct 23, 2010
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Re: [Joho] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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Joho wrote:
Hey guys, I was wondering if I need to get proper instruction on how to multi-pitch climb. I'm already pretty good at lead climbing and have looked at a few books and websites on how to multi-pitch climb and how to build anchors. Thanks for any replies!
YGD!

yes.


vinnie83


Feb 19, 2012, 9:43 PM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2004
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Re: [theextremist04] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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A better questions might have been how many people actually received training before they went multi pitch climbing.


TebingKuning


Feb 20, 2012, 12:24 AM
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Registered: Dec 2, 2011
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Re: [vinnie83] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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Ya, Im pretty sure that most climbing books and videos are intended to give you most of the instruction you need, but to save themselves from law suits they tell you to get proper "training". But i still think the majority of multipitch climbers just learned the trade from other experienced multipitch climbers.... Or sometimes not so experienced...


USnavy


Feb 20, 2012, 1:11 AM
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Registered: Nov 5, 2007
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Re: [TebingKuning] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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TebingKuning wrote:
Ya, Im pretty sure that most climbing books and videos are intended to give you most of the instruction you need, but to save themselves from law suits they tell you to get proper "training". But i still think the majority of multipitch climbers just learned the trade from other experienced multipitch climbers.... Or sometimes not so experienced...
It should be noted that there is a difference between knowledge and experience. Reading climbing books and websites will give you knowledge, but they will not directly give you experience. Its not a good idea to try use a brand new technique you just learned in a book ten pitches off the ground. If you want to learn how to do something from a book, its best you practice the techniques you learned on the ground, where its safe. Then when you have the experience of utilizing those techniques, you can take them up higher.

However there is still something to be said about obtaining professional instruction. Even if you purchase a book on climbing from a reputable source, thats filled with accurate information, its still possible that you may be doing something wrong or unsafe. Thats where a guide can help. Having someone experienced teach you will ensure that if you make a mistake while practicing techniques you learned, he or she will correct you and keep you alive. Also, books are not all inclusive. There are times where something you read in a book simply will not work, or it is not the best option. Again, having someone experienced teach you can provide that extra level of experiential knowledge that is not included in books.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Feb 20, 2012, 1:17 AM)


TebingKuning


Feb 20, 2012, 2:35 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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I agree with you completely and after reading back over my message i realize my mistakes. It is true that the best way to learn is from a trained professional, but at the same time you can get that experience from other climbers. But yes, going up on a wall with only book knowledge is insane.


Partner j_ung


Feb 20, 2012, 5:11 AM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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Re: [vinnie83] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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TebingKuning wrote:
I agree with you completely and after reading back over my message i realize my mistakes. It is true that the best way to learn is from a trained professional, but at the same time you can get that experience from other climbers. But yes, going up on a wall with only book knowledge is insane.

Just a question of terminology, I think. I would definitely call going with experienced climbers getting instruction, though maybe not formally so.

So if we assume instruction includes informal instruction, then...

vinnie83 wrote:
A better questions might have been how many people actually received training before they went multi pitch climbing.

Virtually all of them.


tivs


Feb 20, 2012, 8:07 AM
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Registered: Mar 23, 2010
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Re: [Joho] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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I say 'yes.'
I took a multi-pitch climbing course, and it was definitely worth it. I had done all the reading and have seen the videos, so most of the stuff we went over was already familiar to me. But, the hands-on approach really ingrained the info in my head. I learned some new things, too, especially regarding rope management. It was also a confidence boost to see the theories and diagrams from books put into action.
Anyway, if it's an available option, then go for it. Although, it's probably not totally necessary... since a lot of people obviously don't receive formal intruction, and they all haven't died yet.


(This post was edited by tivs on Feb 20, 2012, 8:08 AM)


bearbreeder


Feb 20, 2012, 8:49 AM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
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Re: [Joho] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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multi is one are where an experienced person is very useful ... sure you can "learn" a decent amount from books, but someone who knows what they are doing can show you some tricks

the biggest screw up, other than safety, is wasting time at belays ... an experienced person can help you there ...


TarHeelEMT


Feb 20, 2012, 2:41 PM
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Registered: Jun 20, 2009
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Re: [Joho] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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T1


shockabuku


Feb 20, 2012, 3:27 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2006
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Re: [Joho] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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Joho wrote:
...need to get proper instruction on how to multi-pitch climb...

Yep. In particular, don't get improper instruction.


clc


Feb 21, 2012, 6:21 PM
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Registered: Feb 12, 2005
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Re: [Joho] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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Joho,
if you are asking that seems to indicate you don't know aht you are doing so you should get proper instructions ..


jeepnphreak


Feb 22, 2012, 9:00 AM
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Registered: Jul 28, 2008
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Re: [Joho] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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Joho wrote:
Hey guys, I was wondering if I need to get proper instruction on how to multi-pitch climb. I'm already pretty good at lead climbing and have looked at a few books and websites on how to multi-pitch climb and how to build anchors. Thanks for any replies!

Just the fact that you have to ask shows that you would benifit from an experenced climber. Find a guide to hire or an experienced climber; carry the rope and supply beer.
its not hard but there are a lot of neat tips and tricks to save time and cluster Fs that will make the difference betwen a great climb and an Shit show epic.


summerprophet


Feb 22, 2012, 10:25 AM
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Registered: Jan 16, 2004
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Re: [Joho] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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Joho wrote:
Hey guys, I was wondering if I need to get proper instruction on how to multi-pitch climb. I'm already pretty good at lead climbing and have looked at a few books and websites on how to multi-pitch climb and how to build anchors. Thanks for any replies!

Ummmmm, you kinda don't want to Fuck this one up.

Seek a more experienced partner who can teach you the basics. Building anchors is not something that should be learned from books.

Depending on your area, it is no different than single pitch climbing, or it could be horrific experiences requiring routefinding, hanging belays and involved descents.

Start small, and be cautious. If you can't find anyone more experienced to take you, climb popular routes, so others can advise you on the way.

EDIT:
From other posts I see you are in Oregon.
Smith Rock - Cinnamon Slab and all the routes to the right of it would be an excellent introduction to Multi pitch.


(This post was edited by summerprophet on Feb 22, 2012, 10:39 AM)


Guran


Feb 24, 2012, 5:10 AM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2008
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Re: [Joho] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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OK, here's a tip:

Before you venture out on a true multi-pitch climb, do a couple of single-pich routes, divided into several pitches.
The routine will be exactly the same, but everything is so much more forgiving with terra firma less than half a rope lenght away.


ecade


Feb 24, 2012, 7:27 AM
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Re: [Joho] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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+1 to what Gujan said,

I'm also new to multipitches and trad (upto 5.7-8 now) but am a strong sport climber.

One thing i've found helped was choosing multipitches that have bolted belays with good stances and are not too many pitches, present my tallest is 3.

Read up and learn Self Rescue, that is the really important part especially once you go above two pitches


Colinhoglund


Feb 24, 2012, 8:43 AM
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Registered: May 4, 2008
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Re: [Guran] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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2+ For Guran. This is a common technique in the "proper instruction" of a guide. Practice all skills in situations with lower consequences if you screw something up.


shockabuku


Feb 24, 2012, 9:56 AM
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Registered: May 20, 2006
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Re: [ecade] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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ecade wrote:
I'm also new to multipitches and trad (upto 5.7-8 now) but am a strong sport climber.

I don't know, I keep hearing sport climbing starts at 12c.


herites


Feb 24, 2012, 10:00 AM
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Registered: Apr 10, 2011
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Re: [Joho] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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Save the hassle, go free solo.


ecade


Feb 24, 2012, 10:12 AM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2011
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Re: [shockabuku] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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Lol,
I guess I'm lucky I can crank grades like that. I'm just chicken shit on trad gear. I've had about 12 trad leads and I have a hard time trusting the chossy limestone of Ontario. We don't have consistent cracks abound like other places, and many routes are a mix of crack and face climbing out here and wow the one who bolts a face on what was a originally a trad only route, well, best not to even hint at the idea lest you wish to be lynched.

So what do you call it when people clip bolts below 5.12c :)


johnwesely


Feb 24, 2012, 10:17 AM
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Registered: Jun 12, 2006
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Re: [shockabuku] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
ecade wrote:
I'm also new to multipitches and trad (upto 5.7-8 now) but am a strong sport climber.

I don't know, I keep hearing sport climbing starts at 12c.

It is actually 12b, but at that low level, it is sort of splitting hairs.


shockabuku


Feb 24, 2012, 10:44 AM
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Re: [ecade] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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ecade wrote:
So what do you call it when people clip bolts below 5.12c :)

Training? Or probably warming up.


(This post was edited by shockabuku on Feb 24, 2012, 10:44 AM)


Guran


Feb 24, 2012, 12:27 PM
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Re: [ecade] Multi-pitch climbing [In reply to]
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ecade wrote:
So what do you call it when people clip bolts below 5.12c :)

Neither Tongue


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