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Unusually Weak Grip
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climber144


Feb 20, 2012, 6:45 AM
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Unusually Weak Grip
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Something very weird is happening during my climbs lately. I've ben able to onsight 5.11 and project 5.12 for a while now but for the past two climbing sessions, I do my warm up (5-6 easy boulder problems and 5 laps on 5.10) and then I'm shot for the rest of the day.

I feel fine, there is not pain anywhere, but when I grab onto anything but a jug and put weight on it, my forearm gives out and will not support my weight.

Before my warm up, I tried to hang on a hangboard and I could hang on the smallest crimps on it, just like normal. But after I noticed the complete lack of grip I tried again and could barely hang on the crimps 3 sizes bigger than before.

This happened for the first time on a monday and I didn't think much of it because I had been at school all day, then track, then climbing so I just figured I was tired. Then that wednesday/thursday I got sick and returned to climbing on sunday where it happened again.

What is wrong with me? I'm on a climbing team and really need to get back to normal. Is there any exercises I could do? Thanks. (I am 15 years old)


(This post was edited by climber144 on Feb 20, 2012, 7:54 AM)


shockabuku


Feb 20, 2012, 7:39 AM
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Re: [climber144] Unusually Weak Grip [In reply to]
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What did your coach say?


climber144


Feb 20, 2012, 7:59 AM
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Re: [shockabuku] Unusually Weak Grip [In reply to]
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They thought that I was probably just dehydrated and tired on Monday but I haven't told them it happened again yet. I have practice tonight and will bring it up.


shockabuku


Feb 20, 2012, 9:23 AM
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Re: [climber144] Unusually Weak Grip [In reply to]
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climber144 wrote:
They thought that I was probably just dehydrated and tired on Monday but I haven't told them it happened again yet. I have practice tonight and will bring it up.

That's probably a better idea than asking here. I hope you feel better.


abrock5


Feb 21, 2012, 5:53 AM
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Re: [climber144] Unusually Weak Grip [In reply to]
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I had the EXACT same thing happen to me a few weeks ago. Did my normal warm up, a few moderate routes, and then on to my project route. I tried it once with one fall, rested for about 10 minutes, and then went to try it again. As soon as I hit the first few holds, my arms were shot...no strength at all.

It was kind of scary as nothing like that had ever happened before. I actually went to a doctor just to have everything checked out. Turns out, everything was fine at the doc.

Looking back, I think it was a combination of several things for me. First, I hadn't slept well the night before. Also, with my work schedule, I don't eat or drink very much water throughout the day. I think all of these things lead to a crash in energy.

What I did (and my recommendation for you) is took an entire week off from climbing and working out. I spent this week trying to stay completely hydrated and eating right. After a full week of that, I returned to the gym and actually climbed better than I ever have. I was a bit nervous that my arms would randomly give out again, so it was nice to have a good day climbing.

I know it's difficult to take time off, but it sounds like this is what you need to let your body fully recover. If you do not notice any improvement, then DEFINITELY see a doctor! I hope you get back to 100% soon.


onceahardman


Feb 21, 2012, 5:53 PM
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Re: [abrock5] Unusually Weak Grip [In reply to]
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abrock, I'm so glad this turned out to be no big deal. Remeber that recovery is a part of training. You don't gain strength while climbing, you gain strength while you rest between sessions.


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