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Beal invents static/ dynamic hybrid rope
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USnavy


Feb 21, 2012, 1:36 AM
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Beal invents static/ dynamic hybrid rope
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I ran across a new rope Beal is making called Dynastat. Apparently its a dynamic rope that has some type of fuse in it making it semi-static with an elongation of only 2%. It remains semi-static until the load applied reaches 3 kN, in which the fuse breaks and it becomes dynamic. Interesting.

http://www.beal-pro.com/...s/corde-dynastat.php

http://www.youtube.com/...amp;feature=youtu.be


(This post was edited by USnavy on Feb 21, 2012, 1:38 AM)


meanandugly


Feb 21, 2012, 2:56 AM
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Looks pretty cool.


patto


Feb 21, 2012, 3:42 AM
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Very cool, but I can't see too much use for climbing. It might be a good rope for top roping but possibly not even that.

It seems a very good rope for industry and rope access roles including rescue.


meanandugly


Feb 21, 2012, 5:24 AM
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Access is what I was thinking.


donwanadi


Feb 21, 2012, 6:47 AM
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Could work as a haul line.


yodadave


Feb 21, 2012, 7:49 AM
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presumably when the fuse breaks the rope is then toast.
yes?
no?


Lazlo


Feb 21, 2012, 7:55 AM
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yodadave wrote:
presumably when the fuse breaks the rope is then toast.
yes?
no?

In an industrial setting at least, I'd bet it's true.


Lazlo


Feb 21, 2012, 7:56 AM
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Lazlo wrote:
yodadave wrote:
presumably when the fuse breaks the rope is then toast.
yes?
no?

In an industrial setting at least, I'd bet it's true.

Meaning that most companies would replace it after a serious fall anyway.


billcoe_


Feb 21, 2012, 8:52 AM
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Interesting. Edelweiss mfg a similar one years back. It's a low stretch rope you can press into lead service if necessary (like on a wall) and it will take 1 lead fall.

In reply to:
Edelweiss low stretch ropes are the perfect combination of price and quality. Edelweiss low stretch ropes differ from American static lines due to the fact that they are designed to take up to a factor one fall. These ropes WILL stretch a little to allow them to absorb a factor one fall. The lines are made completely from Polyamide (nylon), which gives them a high strength rating. These ropes are great for cavers, canyoneers, and climbers.


USnavy


Feb 21, 2012, 9:01 AM
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Re: [billcoe_] Beal invents static/ dynamic hybrid rope [In reply to]
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billcoe_ wrote:
Interesting. Edelweiss mfg a similar one years back. It's a low stretch rope you can press into lead service if necessary (like on a wall) and it will take 1 lead fall.

In reply to:
Edelweiss low stretch ropes are the perfect combination of price and quality. Edelweiss low stretch ropes differ from American static lines due to the fact that they are designed to take up to a factor one fall. These ropes WILL stretch a little to allow them to absorb a factor one fall. The lines are made completely from Polyamide (nylon), which gives them a high strength rating. These ropes are great for cavers, canyoneers, and climbers.
Where does it say it will only hold one lead fall? It says it will hold up to a factor one fall.


USnavy


Feb 21, 2012, 9:09 AM
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I just noticed something deceiving about the YouTube video. The intro says that semi-static ropes will not survive a factor one fall over a sharp edge, but their special rope will. Than it shows some drop tests. However the drop tests dont appear to be factor one falls, they are wall above a factor one fall, close to a factor two fall. If they were factor one falls, the weight would start out close to the anchor point (in the middle of the tower), but the weight starts to fall from well above the anchor point. Watch very closely at :42.


yodadave


Feb 21, 2012, 10:57 AM
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Lazlo wrote:
Lazlo wrote:
yodadave wrote:
presumably when the fuse breaks the rope is then toast.
yes?
no?

In an industrial setting at least, I'd bet it's true.

Meaning that most companies would replace it after a serious fall anyway.

I guess i was thinking 3kN isn't a very serious fall to have to replace gear after. But i always hated physics so i don't know.


naitch


Feb 21, 2012, 1:30 PM
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Re: [yodadave] Beal invents static/ dynamic hybrid rope [In reply to]
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In the lefthand column http://www.beal-pro.com/anglais/all-speciales.php it says that it will handle 24 factor 1 falls...???


USnavy


Feb 21, 2012, 1:33 PM
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naitch wrote:
In the lefthand column http://www.beal-pro.com/anglais/all-speciales.php it says that it will handle 24 factor 1 falls...???
I would imagine it would, factor one is not that severe (compared to the factor 1.77 that the UIAA does.)


naitch


Feb 21, 2012, 2:28 PM
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USnavy wrote:
naitch wrote:
In the lefthand column http://www.beal-pro.com/anglais/all-speciales.php it says that it will handle 24 factor 1 falls...???
I would imagine it would, factor one is not that severe (compared to the factor 1.77 that the UIAA does.)

But then scroll sown a bit further (still lefthand column) and it says 24 1.77 falls which doesn't seem to make sense to me...


USnavy


Feb 21, 2012, 3:04 PM
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Yea pretty sure thats a typo. Beal's website has lots of errors on it.


JimTitt


Feb 21, 2012, 11:17 PM
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In the original French they give 10 X 1.77 falls, 8.8kN impact. A pretty heavy beast though at 75g/m but going to be robust!


barleywino


Feb 22, 2012, 4:10 AM
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Bluewater makes a similar rope, their Canyonline.


Partner j_ung


Feb 22, 2012, 4:51 AM
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USnavy wrote:
Yea pretty sure thats a typo. Beal's website has lots of errors on it.

That's always been the case. Throughout a few different website iterations, Beal's site is poorly edited, barely proofed and looks like it was designed by a team of dyslexic fruit bats. It's not really a problem when they just mess up layout and spelling. But when they begin to contradict themselves on technical specs it's also a little frustrating.


Partner j_ung


Feb 22, 2012, 4:52 AM
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JimTitt wrote:
In the original French they give 10 X 1.77 falls, 8.8kN impact. A pretty heavy beast though at 75g/m but going to be robust!

That's Dynostat? Wow.


snoboy


Feb 22, 2012, 7:52 PM
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Re: [patto] Beal invents static/ dynamic hybrid rope [In reply to]
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patto wrote:
Very cool, but I can't see too much use for climbing. It might be a good rope for top roping but possibly not even that.

It seems a very good rope for industry and rope access roles including rescue.

I have heard of this used in a caving role. Fixed SRT lines etc. I would not want this for rescue... Easy to exceed 3kN of force in a rope rescue sytem, and then you would be bouncing around on a dynamic rope - not what you want at all...


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