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Gmburns2000
Feb 10, 2012, 11:32 AM
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Managed to get out last Sunday for the first time in weeks (due to rain). The lady and I headed out at 6am to beat the heat. She got her first solo rappel, first cleaning of an anchor, and first losing-her-balance while on-rappel-and-flopping-into-a-bush-with-prickly-splinters.  It was all good (she was on a fireman's).
We left at noon due to the heat.
Hoping this coming Sunday provides better opportunities to find the shade.
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Gmburns2000
Feb 12, 2012, 10:22 PM
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Made it out climbing again today to a place called Sao Luis do Puruna. It's a sandstone area about 45min north of Curitiba and has some really gorgeous climbing. I have no idea what the grades are, but I feel as if I'm climbing near my limit every time. It's tough to get to this location, though, as one needs a car, and my best partners don't have one. Still, I keep wanting to come back for more and more. I had a really enjoyable time outside today.
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gblauer
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Feb 12, 2012, 10:40 PM
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Sport or trad?
It's been cold here. Too cold for rock climbing, too warm for ice (at least for this novice ice climber, the ice is thin).
There have been several 45 degree days, alas, I was not at the gunks on those days. Hoping to get out next weekend.
I hosted a work event at Brooklyn Boulders this past Saturday. The Pros: Huge gym, and a great, relaxed vibe.
Cons: Unreal crowds, short walls, very dense setting, no parking. It's always fun taking the lead test at new gyms isn't it? I have taken at least 10 lead tests and every gym is different. At Metro Rock in Boston you can select any route, lead it and I don't think they ask you to take a fall. At PRG (my local gym) they set up a specific lead test (usually a 5.8) and they ask you to take a fall then finish the climb. At BB they too had a specific lead test, it was in the 5.10ish range, reachy for this shorty, with lots of bumps (i.e. more technical than most lead tests). Had to take a fall somewhere after the third bolt. They explained that since their lead area was small, they didn't want a lot of lead climbers, hence the 5.10.
While at BB I had the privilege of watching Ashima Shiraishi (~11 years old) climb. I recognized her from a video I saw on ABC news. She is a tiny little thing who manages to make the 12's look like 6's. She took first place at Nationals for the 11 and under wunderkids.
Planning a trip to Arizona to kick off the spring season, I think we are going to Cochise. Expect to spend the summer at the gunks and then head to the Dolomites in late August for two weeks of climbing.
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Gmburns2000
Feb 12, 2012, 11:43 PM
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gblauer wrote: Sport or trad? It's been cold here. Too cold for rock climbing, too warm for ice (at least for this novice ice climber, the ice is thin). There have been several 45 degree days, alas, I was not at the gunks on those days. Hoping to get out next weekend. I hosted a work event at Brooklyn Boulders this past Saturday. The Pros: Huge gym, and a great, relaxed vibe. Cons: Unreal crowds, short walls, very dense setting, no parking. It's always fun taking the lead test at new gyms isn't it? I have taken at least 10 lead tests and every gym is different. At Metro Rock in Boston you can select any route, lead it and I don't think they ask you to take a fall. At PRG (my local gym) they set up a specific lead test (usually a 5.8) and they ask you to take a fall then finish the climb. At BB they too had a specific lead test, it was in the 5.10ish range, reachy for this shorty, with lots of bumps (i.e. more technical than most lead tests). Had to take a fall somewhere after the third bolt. They explained that since their lead area was small, they didn't want a lot of lead climbers, hence the 5.10. While at BB I had the privilege of watching Ashima Shiraishi (~11 years old) climb. I recognized her from a video I saw on ABC news. She is a tiny little thing who manages to make the 12's look like 6's. She took first place at Nationals for the 11 and under wunderkids. Planning a trip to Arizona to kick off the spring season, I think we are going to Cochise. Expect to spend the summer at the gunks and then head to the Dolomites in late August for two weeks of climbing.
Mostly sport, but there are gear route with bolts on them.
That Dolomites thing sounds interesting. I might be in Spain at that point.
My gym here just wants to make sure you clip correctly. They're more interested in conducting a lead-belay test than a lead test.
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sethg
Feb 13, 2012, 3:29 PM
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Gail, I was at BKB on Saturday afternoon, wish I'd known to look for you and say hello!
Numerous celebrities, children and adult, populate the gym. It's hard to say whether the pre-teen crowding on the weekend beats the weeknight adult crowding that goes on. It's often very crowded, unfortunately. I tell myself it means the place is doing well so I should be happy.
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gblauer
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Feb 21, 2012, 10:15 PM
Post #881 of 1159
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Idiotic climbing=Sketchy head
It was a lovely weekend at the gunks. On Saturday MItch and I hiked from the Trapps lot into the Lemon Squeeze and back. There were lots of parties out climbing (8-10 parties, more folks bouldering) in the partly sunny 40+ degree day. We regretted not climbing, but enjoyed our hike.
It was bright and sunny on Sunday (43 degrees); we hit the cliff at around noon. The days are still short (once the sun goes down it gets really, cold really quickly) so we decided to climb in the Handy Andy area. I warmed up on "That Nice Crack Climb", was placing my first piece, when my foot slipped (could feel it happening elected to see what would happen, rather than shift my weight) and fell to the ground before I clipped. I was very low to the ground so no harm no foul. Yet, when I finished the climb, I was so heady. I absolutely did not trust my feet. We did some more climbing, I relaxed a bit, but, the day was over before I could really get my head back. I hate to waste a bonus day of clmibing, yet that's what I did.
I am seeking redemption this weekend.
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jakedatc
Feb 21, 2012, 10:59 PM
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gblauer wrote: Idiotic climbing=Sketchy head It was a lovely weekend at the gunks. On Saturday MItch and I hiked from the Trapps lot into the Lemon Squeeze and back. There were lots of parties out climbing (8-10 parties, more folks bouldering) in the partly sunny 40+ degree day. We regretted not climbing, but enjoyed our hike. It was bright and sunny on Sunday (43 degrees); we hit the cliff at around noon. The days are still short (once the sun goes down it gets really, cold really quickly) so we decided to climb in the Handy Andy area. I warmed up on "That Nice Crack Climb", was placing my first piece, when my foot slipped (could feel it happening elected to see what would happen, rather than shift my weight) and fell to the ground before I clipped. I was very low to the ground so no harm no foul. Yet, when I finished the climb, I was so heady. I absolutely did not trust my feet. We did some more climbing, I relaxed a bit, but, the day was over before I could really get my head back. I hate to waste a bonus day of clmibing, yet that's what I did. I am seeking redemption this weekend.
Gail, How much bouldering do you do? I have a theory that trad climbers (and many sport climbers) don't do enough bouldering to hone their skills close to the ground without a rope.
I'd be damn tempted to climb thurs-fri down there but i'm afraid of the dampness in the forecast :/
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Gmburns2000
Feb 21, 2012, 11:00 PM
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how's the foot treating you in general?
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gblauer
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Feb 22, 2012, 1:17 AM
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I generally don't boulder. Perhaps I should.
Greg...my feet are ok, not great. My fingers are terrible. Although outside climbing is much easier on my fingers than indoor climbing.
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Gmburns2000
Feb 22, 2012, 2:10 AM
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gblauer wrote: I generally don't boulder. Perhaps I should. Greg...my feet are ok, not great. My fingers are terrible. Although outside climbing is much easier on my fingers than indoor climbing.
But you're finding the new insoles Mitch built to be effective now. You're not having the same problems you had a couple of years ago?
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gblauer
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Feb 22, 2012, 2:20 AM
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I could not climb without the carbon fiber inserts that Mitch made for me. I also take a prescription Naproxen before I climb.
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jakedatc
Feb 23, 2012, 3:23 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: jakedatc wrote: Gail, How much bouldering do you do? I have a theory that trad climbers (and many sport climbers) don't do enough bouldering to hone their skills close to the ground without a rope. That's similar to my theory that boulderers don't do enough trad climbing to sharpen their skills WITH a rope.  Josh
well, i agree that people who do mostly bouldering would benefit from rope climbing. i think the benefits of bouldering for trad climbing will show up more.
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losbill
Feb 25, 2012, 1:39 AM
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Interesting report. Clearly you need to step up in your gym/bar training routine Grasshopper. Puking on the approach is really bad form no matter how well you sucked it up for the rest of the day. PM me and will set you up with my guru Dan K. We once did 4 pitches and 400 beers at the Gunks one day, We were out of bed and climbing by 7:30 AM the next morning albeit on a 5.5 with a 5 minute dirt road approach but no puking was involved. Nevertheless sounded like a great day. Thanks for sharing.
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jakedatc
Feb 25, 2012, 4:12 AM
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speaking of walking.. i'm doing the Long Trail this summer Bill. is that far enough yet? ;) bahahaha 
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jakedatc
Feb 25, 2012, 2:44 PM
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losbill wrote: jakedatc wrote: speaking of walking.. i'm doing the Long Trail this summer Bill. is that far enough yet? ;) bahahaha In one day Jake? 
we'll see how the first day goes and work from that :)
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zealotnoob
Feb 27, 2012, 6:54 PM
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losbill wrote: Interesting report. Clearly you need to step up in your gym/bar training routine Grasshopper. Puking on the approach is really bad form no matter how well you sucked it up for the rest of the day. PM me and will set you up with my guru Dan K. We once did 4 pitches and 400 beers at the Gunks one day, We were out of bed and climbing by 7:30 AM the next morning albeit on a 5.5 with a 5 minute dirt road approach but no puking was involved. Nevertheless sounded like a great day. Thanks for sharing.
That's a 100 beer/pitch ratio. Watch out Warren Harding.
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gblauer
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Mar 14, 2012, 9:42 PM
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Spent the last week in Vail/Beaver Creek skiing. With my focus on climbing, I really forgot how much I love to ski.
We had a great time, unreal weather and reasonable conditions (given that it was the poorest snow season in 30 years).
Now on to the climbing season!
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dagibbs
Mar 17, 2012, 10:58 PM
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Currently in El Potrero Chico. Estrellita today. More trip report, hopefully, when I get back.
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gblauer
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Mar 21, 2012, 3:06 AM
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Spent the weekend at the gunks. Glorious weather. Monday was amazing, 75+ degrees. We actually got hot!
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Gmburns2000
Mar 21, 2012, 10:08 AM
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gblauer wrote: Spent the weekend at the gunks. Glorious weather. Monday was amazing, 75+ degrees. We actually got hot!
You guys have been blessed with an amazingly warm winter. Not sure what that means for the summer's drinking water, but wow, climbing in March as if it's July? Amazing.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 21, 2012, 10:16 AM
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As for me, getting out (or even to the gym, for that matter) has been difficult. Finding consistent partners hasn't been that difficult. It's finding consistent partners with cars that's really tough. Cars here in Brasil are as ridiculously expensive as climbing gear is. Imagine a #2 BD Camalot selling for US$175. Cars are the same: a US$20k car costs about US$40k, so the folks who spend a lot of time climbing don't have a lot of money for big pieces of machinery. Of course, I'd like to be one of them.
However, a couple of my horseless carriage-less partners is developing a new crag, and since they know next to nothing about trad gear (because of the prohibitive cost), they have asked me to help them out. I just have to find a way to get there for the entire weekend to maximize the time spent at the crag.
As for the gym, well, my work schedule basically keeps me from getting there for any reasonable length of time. I'm setting routes, so I get free climbing, but man, having an hour here and there isn't overly productive.
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Dip
Mar 21, 2012, 12:53 PM
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Havent put anythin in here in a while but i just got back from 8 days in Red Rocks so here goes...
Landed last Saturday, March 10th at around 11:30 and despite a crushing headache shared by all members of my group made a bee line for Kraft to get warmed up. Messed around on the Monkey Bar boulder for a while but didn't send anything harder than the 2, which was a rad problem.
Day 2 we woke in no hurry, scored some breakfast and drove into the loop where we parked at second pulllout and aimed for the Gallery. Here my apparent inability to read a guidebook surfaced once again, as we rambled aimlessly through orange rocky outcroppings for a while trying to figure out exactly where it was we were trying to go. Eventually we found the trail, but only because we passed about 45 other people on their way to the same crag. Not wanting to deal with the crowds, we switched directions and hiked along the ridge toward Sandstone Quarry, where after only a bit more confusion we stumbled upon The Pier. Once settled in we climbed Under the Boardwalk, Basement, and Geometric Progression, which were all cool sport climbs. We ended the day back at Kraft, on the way to which i stopped at Cannibal Crag and took a quick burn on Caustic Cock. Not a whole lot of climbing the second day, but we had six more to go.
Day 3 we woke at 6:00. After once again sneaking into Charleston Ave to score coffee and breakfast sandwiches, something that was to become a daily ritual, we made way for Black Velvet Canyon and Dream of Wild Turkeys. Of course when we got there a line had formed on Prince of Darkness, thanks in part to a fairly slow party on pitch 2 of The Dream. We didn't actually start climbing until 11:40. I led the first pitch, which was a really nice first trad lead of the season, since it was short and easy. My head was feeling great when i reached the anchors. The plan was to swing leads so my friend set out on the second pitch, only to run out of slings with about twentyfive feet left to climb. He made it to the anchor without incident, and i never would've guessed there was anything wrong, but when i joined him on the small ledge at the end of the pitch he declared that he was terrified and renounced trad climbing forever. Ignoring the fact that this didn't bode well for the rest of the climb I led pitch three, the one with super rad traverse. Once on the ledge i thought perhaps my buddy was just having a moment down at the last pitch, so i asked if there was any way he'd be willing to take pitch four, which he was not. Long story short, we bailed after the third pitch with intentions of going into town and getting wasted, except some dumbass (read: me) for some unknown reason threaded the rap lines through the bolt hangers instead of the rap rings and afforded us the opportunity to spend the remaining daylight linking p1 & 2 of The Gobbler to retrieve the ropes. By the time we made it out of the desert and into vegas the guy who secured the room was passed out inside with all the room keys. Since we were filthy and tired we bailed on the idea and went back to camp.
Day 4 we sat around camp for most of the morning, until finally around 11:00 i drug another friend through the desert toward Dark Shadows, thinking it may not be crowded on a Tuesday afternoon. Wrong. We passed a few hikers on the way in, all of whom asked if we part of the "big group" headed toward Dark Shadows. We pressed on anyway, hoping their definition of a big group was different from ours. When we arrived at the climb after a bit of a bushwhack (as previously stated i suck at directions) we were fourth in line, behind a party of four with one leader already on the route. Amazingly enough this actually worked to our advantage, as two of the three groups in front of us got sick of waiting and left in search of sport climbing. This made us the last group on route for the day, no one behind us pushing, and made for a very enjoyable four pitches of climbing. We got back to the car at 6:58, just in time to beat the loop police, or so we thought.
Day 5 me and the same guy who climbed Dark Shadows with me woke at 5:00, scored breakfast again at DD, then entered the loop at 6:00, where we parked at Pine Creek and hiked into Juniper Canyon toward The Black Dagger. The book says the approach should take about an hour and a half, add an hour and you get how long it took us. Still, it was totally worth it since we were literally the only two people in the canyon all day. The Dagger was super rad, easily the most memorable climb of the trip. I thought the 5.7+ crux pitch felt harder than the .10a on The Dream, but that's probably because i'm unaccustomed to run out stemming on glossy rock. Also worth noting, I've seen the 4th pitch chimney rated as 4th class in a couple different places, but it sure as hell didn't feel like 4th class to me. I put three pieces of gear in before squirming out of the small exit tunnel on the left side. From there it was straighforward climbing but the wind was murderous, several times provoking a heart to heart conversation between me and rock climbing. Eventually we topped out, walked off through the gunsight, and retrieved our packs. By the time we got back to the parking lot it was 8:30, and undoubtedly we would have a ticket. Except we didn't. I have no idea why, and i'm still half expecting to get something in the mail, but as the days go by i'm gaurdedly optimistic that the blm just didn't make it to that parking lot yet.
Day 6 the whole group was beat up, but we had plans to meet a friend who lives in vegas and had the good fortune of stumbling across an undeveloped boulderfield while going for a warmup hike one day. We met him and hiked in, but unfortunately no one had any energy to nab an FA. Still fun though, and sure beat my common rest day back home.
Day 7 two members of our group had never in their lives been more than one pitch off the ground, so we geared up and i drug them up Johnny Vegas, which was thankfully unoccupied for the duration of the day. Super cool line, soft at 5.7 but fun none the less. I got off route a little bit at the end and added an extra forty feet of fun but run out 5.6ish slab to the climb, but it was certainly worth it to skip the 5.0 regular finish.
Day 8 rain and snow was forecasted, so me and one other dude woke up early and hit Kraft again in hopes of getting a little bit of climbing in before we left. Unfortunately we were wrecked, it was our eighth day on after all, and we threw in the towell long before the precip arrived. We spent the rest of the day tooling about vegas; stopped at the casino, went to the gear shop, target, etc, then caught our flight home later that night. Great trip. Can not wait to go back. Need to go with someone who wants to finish The Dream with me, because the first three pitches were dope!
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