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msedly


Feb 22, 2012, 6:00 PM
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Sore Big Toe
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Hi everyone, I hate to start another thread about this problem, but I searched and have been reading and haven't found the answer I was looking for. I have only been climbing since this time last year, mostly outdoors on the weekends. I recently joined the local gym and have been climbing as much as my tired arms will let me (usually 2-3 times a week). I have a pair of 5-10 Coyotes and I usually keep them on the entire time I'm at the gym which is around 2-3 hours. Outdoors I usually have my shoes on for 15 minutes max. They are a bit small and have been hurting my big toe at the first joint, so I would like to purchase another set of shoes for climbing in the gym.

Here's my question... What is a current shoe that is stiff enough for edging and has some decent room in the toe box so that I don't have to remove my shoes every 15 minutes? Sorry in advance if this should be in the beginner or general forum instead.


barleywino


Feb 23, 2012, 4:02 AM
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Re: [msedly] Sore Big Toe [In reply to]
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5.10 Grandstone. Buy 1/2 size above your street shoe size.


shockabuku


Feb 23, 2012, 5:57 AM
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Re: [msedly] Sore Big Toe [In reply to]
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Getting your climbing shoes so that they're roomy and comfortable is a little counterproductive.

Slippers or velcro closure shoes are nice for the gym because they're easy on/easy off. Take them off once in a while for a few minutes and your toes will be more happy.

Try on a bunch of shoes to see if they fit your foot profile better. I used to wear a non-aggressive shoe that made the knuckle at the base of my big toe sore and it just happened to be how that particular model fit me so I stopped wearing them. I'm partial to La Sportiva shoes and I'd say try the Arco or Tarantula on the cheaper end or the Katana (an excellent shoe) if it fits and you don't mind spending the cash.

The Five Ten Grandstone is a high top lace up and probably the last thing you want in the gym.


barleywino


Feb 23, 2012, 3:53 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] Sore Big Toe [In reply to]
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This review says its a great stiff edging (and crack) shoe, which is what the OP was looking for
http://www.splitterchoss.com/2010/05/18/five-ten-grandstone-review/

Here's another review that also compliments the shoe's edging http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11w/ms-ab-fiveten-grandstone

From Alpinist magazine:

Pros: precision-cut toe is great for edging; comfy, large-volume fit is comfortable; cut-out heel keeps my heel from slipping and improves shoe flexibility; high top protects ankles.

Cons: bulbous toe box is too big for thin cracks.

Rating: 4 stars

Another review from Climbing magazine:

2010 Shoe Review

Five Ten Grandstone
CLIMBING EDITORS' CHOICE
$129.95 fiveten.com
Designed with El Cap free routes in mind (Kevin Jorgeson helped with R&D after attempting to free Mescalito), the Grandstone is a top-shelf high-top, adept at everything granite. With a flat, slightly asymmetric last and an EVA midsole, the Grandstone is Five Ten’s stiffest shoe. One tester noted that the shoe’s edging prowess is “off the charts.” A split-grained leather upper and canvas lining make for a comfortable, low-stretch fit with laces to dial in the fit. The 4.2mm Stealth C4 rubber is an ideal blend of sticky and durable, and the chiseled, low-profi le toe box is rubber-coated for secure jamming, scumming, and precision.
Ideal Uses: Granite free climbing, cracks, edging.
Bottom Line: A top-of-the-line trad shoe at a great price.


(This post was edited by barleywino on Feb 23, 2012, 4:08 PM)


shockabuku


Feb 23, 2012, 5:12 PM
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Re: [barleywino] Sore Big Toe [In reply to]
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barleywino wrote:
This review says its a great stiff edging (and crack) shoe, which is what the OP was looking for
http://www.splitterchoss.com/2010/05/18/five-ten-grandstone-review/

Here's another review that also compliments the shoe's edging http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11w/ms-ab-fiveten-grandstone

From Alpinist magazine:

Pros: precision-cut toe is great for edging; comfy, large-volume fit is comfortable; cut-out heel keeps my heel from slipping and improves shoe flexibility; high top protects ankles.

Cons: bulbous toe box is too big for thin cracks.

Rating: 4 stars

Another review from Climbing magazine:

2010 Shoe Review

Five Ten Grandstone
CLIMBING EDITORS' CHOICE
$129.95 fiveten.com
Designed with El Cap free routes in mind (Kevin Jorgeson helped with R&D after attempting to free Mescalito), the Grandstone is a top-shelf high-top, adept at everything granite. With a flat, slightly asymmetric last and an EVA midsole, the Grandstone is Five Ten’s stiffest shoe. One tester noted that the shoe’s edging prowess is “off the charts.” A split-grained leather upper and canvas lining make for a comfortable, low-stretch fit with laces to dial in the fit. The 4.2mm Stealth C4 rubber is an ideal blend of sticky and durable, and the chiseled, low-profi le toe box is rubber-coated for secure jamming, scumming, and precision.
Ideal Uses: Granite free climbing, cracks, edging.
Bottom Line: A top-of-the-line trad shoe at a great price.

Brilliant; but he's climbing in the gym, not trad climbing. The solution is to periodically take your shoes off.


barleywino


Feb 23, 2012, 5:25 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] Sore Big Toe [In reply to]
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Sounds like he's already tried that and doesn't want to go that route


msedly


Feb 23, 2012, 6:06 PM
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Re: [barleywino] Sore Big Toe [In reply to]
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I normally remove my shoes when I climb outdoors, but have not been doing that while at the gym. It's more of a PITA thing since they lace up. I'm also thinking that I don't want to go backwards and get a shoe that is less aggressive. Ideally, I would like to rest for a week or until it feels better and then find a nice pair of slightly more aggressive shoes that have velcro so I can climb for 20 minutes or so then take them off and rest for a few. I'm leaning towards something like the Mad Rock Flash or a comparable shoe that is good on smaller holds and is solid for edging. The La Sportiva Katana's look like they have a very comfortable toe box, so I would really like to check those out. I'm not ready to get on anything that is steeply overhung, so I don't see a need for a shoe that is oriented for that. I really just need to spend some time trying on shoes at the gym next time I go.


barleywino


Feb 23, 2012, 6:15 PM
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Re: [msedly] Sore Big Toe [In reply to]
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So you don't want to take your shoes off every 15 minutes, but every 20 minutes is fine? Ok. I guess when you start doing longer climbs outdoors, you can buy yet another pair which are comfortable enough to not have to take off at all.


msedly


Feb 23, 2012, 6:44 PM
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Re: [barleywino] Sore Big Toe [In reply to]
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barleywino wrote:
So you don't want to take your shoes off every 15 minutes, but every 20 minutes is fine? Ok. I guess when you start doing longer climbs outdoors, you can buy yet another pair which are comfortable enough to not have to take off at all.

Not sure what you're getting at there... I said that I used to take them off after every route when outdoors, but I don't take them off at all at the gym because the time inbetween routes is significantly shorter and untying, then retying my current pair every 10 minutes is a pain in the ass.

I would like to get a pair of more aggressive shoes for in the gym that have velcro and are quick and easy to remove and put back on so my feet can have a break. I can leave my current pair on for about an hour to an hour and a half before they start bothering me, so they are fine for longer routes. There is no need to get defensive because someone disagrees with your opinion. What works for one, unfortunately, does not work for all. I appreciate your feedback though. When my Coyotes wear out, I will probably look into the Grandstone's.


(This post was edited by msedly on Feb 23, 2012, 6:45 PM)


barleywino


Feb 23, 2012, 8:32 PM
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Re: [msedly] Sore Big Toe [In reply to]
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Not defensive, just confused by your first post, which said you were looking for a shoe you didn't have to take off every 15 minutes, and your later post, which said you were looking for a shoe you could take off every 20 minutes. By longer climbs, I meant all-day climbs, where you may want to leave your shoes on rather than keep taking them off and putting them on. Especially when you have a long way to go and you're trying to be efficient. If your shoes are comfortable enough, there's no need to keep changing them, or buying multiple pairs. I currently wear the Grandstones for both gym and all day climbs. Good luck!


(This post was edited by barleywino on Feb 23, 2012, 8:45 PM)


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