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wetworx


Feb 23, 2012, 8:38 AM
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climbing shoe width
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now I know climbing shoes should be tight along the length (particularly with the toes scrunched in), but what about the width? should my foot be scrunched in at the sides or is it preferable to just be tight?

if the foot is scrunched at the sides, does that mean I need wider shoes?

thx!


(This post was edited by wetworx on Feb 23, 2012, 9:00 AM)


granite_grrl


Feb 23, 2012, 10:14 AM
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Re: [wetworx] climbing shoe width [In reply to]
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You don't want your foot rolling in your shoe when edging. You want them tight enough to prevent this, but this has more to do with the shoe's fit to your foot rather than trying to cram them into something too narrow (which will only make you suffer in the lon run).

If they are a good fit to start with you can fine tune the width with it's closure system. A laceup will provide greater flexibility than a velcro shoe.

There are a lot of shoes on the market, and it'll take you a while to figure out what works for your foot. You don't have to find the perfect shoes right away, it's amazing how much slop some climbers can get away with, but I love when I slip a well fitting shoe on my foot.


Partner j_ung


Feb 23, 2012, 10:36 AM
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Re: [wetworx] climbing shoe width [In reply to]
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wetworx wrote:
now I know climbing shoes should be tight along the length (particularly with the toes scrunched in)...

That's a myth. Some shoes are built to be worn so, but these days, most models are designed for function AND comfort, not function OR comfort. How you fit any particular climbing shoe depends on how the manufacturer intended the shoe to be fit.


wetworx


Feb 24, 2012, 12:43 PM
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Re: [wetworx] climbing shoe width [In reply to]
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sounds like I should expect a lot of expensive trial & error haha

thanks for the replies Wink


acorneau


Feb 24, 2012, 6:40 PM
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Re: [wetworx] climbing shoe width [In reply to]
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wetworx wrote:
sounds like I should expect a lot of expensive trial & error

Sort of, yes.

Finding a shoe that ends up* just the right shape for your feet is a long and arduous process.

Do your research, try them on when you can, and purchase carefully. Be prepared for some shoes to end up great, some to be ok, and some to feel like they were designed for a different species.

*Because all shoes will stretch to a certain degree it's hard to know if the shoes you're trying on right now will end up too loose, too tight, or just right once they settle in.

Good luck with your search!


(This post was edited by acorneau on Feb 24, 2012, 6:52 PM)


bearbreeder


Feb 25, 2012, 1:58 AM
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Re: [wetworx] climbing shoe width [In reply to]
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expect to spend a few hours at the local REI or such and try on every pair on their wall ...

dont get set on certain "performance" or "beginner" shoes ... try on every single one

yr feet will tell you quickly what works and what doesnt ...

there are people out there pulling V14s in evolve defys, which are considered "beginner" shoes .

youll eventually have certain shoes that "just work" for you ... if yr lucky those will be classics that never change

im lucky enough that my go to shoes are miuras and katanas ... i often climb in miuras without doing up the laces, they fit me that well and without any pain or loosenes ... those will never change ... or unlucky enough that they cost an arm and a leg ...

fortunately i climb almost as well with the defys which are 84$ retail at mec Tongue


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Feb 25, 2012, 2:03 AM)


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