Forums: Climbing Partners: US - West Coast:
Learning trad in Portland area
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for US - West Coast

Premier Sponsor:

 


Woods317


Feb 23, 2012, 3:04 PM
Post #1 of 5 (813 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 23, 2012
Posts: 1

Learning trad in Portland area
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hi all, I'm new to both the forum and climbing in the Portland area. It has been several years since I've seriously climbed, when I did I was a sport climber leading in the 5.10 range. However, I've recently gotten back into climbing and would like to expand my abilities into the trad climbing area. I have only seconded on two trad climbs and they were probably the two most fun climbs of my life. Anyway, if anyone knows of a good place in or near Portland Oregon to practice gear placements, or is willing to go climb some nice, long, easier (5.7 ish) trad climbs with me as a second that would be awesome. Thanks for your time and hope to hear from you soon.


derrickp


Feb 25, 2012, 2:10 PM
Post #2 of 5 (783 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 1, 2008
Posts: 10

Re: [Woods317] Learning trad in Portland area [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

when May rolls around the climbing season will kick into full swing. Until then, Plan on just going to Smith rock and having a 50/50 or hope for a few good dry days around pdx. Make sure that whoever is teaching you is actually qualified to do so. There are a lot of overly confident climbers who lack the knowledge for safe and bomber protection. Focus on ground training first. Horse thief butte outside of the Dalles is a wonderful intro to trad playground. Carver cliffs, Ozone, and Broughton all have a couple lines each which run on the easy side of Trad. BE WARNED that in Oregon, you can find simple 5.10 trad lines and really scary 5.7 routes. It's all about the quality of placements available. I know that most climbers hate to hear this, but the best route to learning to place pro is to take a class or hire a guide. Yes, it does cost money but if your passionate enough about it, you'll work hard to save the dough. plus guided courses gives you information you can trust. They are required to teach according to national standards. you would be learning the most up to date rigging and placing methods. I can't say the same for finding someone at a crag and asking for a little help. With that being said, I should also add that many people have been very successful climbers and never taken a class in there life. I personally think a middle ground between the two fits me nicely. Be smart, stay safe, and have fun.
Derrick
P.S. also checkout this group for a portland based climbing community http://www.meetup.com/NW-Rock-Climbers/ . Me and the head organizer are both A.M.G.A. accredited guides. Feel free to to come to some of the FREE clinics. or sign up for a guided trip.


rl23455


Feb 25, 2012, 3:49 PM
Post #3 of 5 (775 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 1, 2005
Posts: 56

Re: [Woods317] Learning trad in Portland area [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you put more on your bio about yourself, and a picture, I and others may be more inclined to invite you along for climbing.


anarkhos


Feb 27, 2012, 10:24 AM
Post #4 of 5 (753 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2006
Posts: 228

Re: [Woods317] Learning trad in Portland area [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I don't know what practicing gear placements gets you, but there is trad at Broughton Bluff (st louis & clark state park, troutdale) and rocky butte (near the bible college).


Easyrider1


Sep 18, 2012, 5:46 PM
Post #5 of 5 (527 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 29, 2011
Posts: 3

Re: [rl23455] Learning trad in Portland area [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Guess I'm missing what posting a picture has to do with anything. I have pretty much the same issue as the OP... looking for a trustworthy partner or a trustworthy group to tag along with.

I've had some training and would like to get more real world experience but climbing is one of the few things in life that you can't (safely) do solo.

I'd probably be more comfortable (and visa versa) with folks who are in their 40's or 50's ..or older.

I'm ex-Military and VERY reliable and cautious.


Forums : Climbing Partners : US - West Coast

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook