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cacalderon
Feb 9, 2012, 4:16 PM
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Wondering what the best 2-3 areas are for sport climbing up to 5.12 ? and same question for trad up to 5.11?
Chip in some routes if you know them.
Planning on going mid March 2012.
Thank you
(This post was edited by cacalderon on Feb 9, 2012, 5:15 PM)
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mojomonkey
Feb 9, 2012, 5:28 PM
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cacalderon wrote: Wondering what the best 2-3 areas are for sport climbing up to 5.12 ? and same question for trad up to 5.11? Chip in some routes if you know them. Planning on going mid March 2012. Thank you
Play with the search function on mountain project. Like this to find trad routes in the 5.9-5.11d range with at least 1 star, sorted by area:
http://mountainproject.com/scripts/Search.php?searchType=routeFinder&selectedIds=%27105731932%27&type=rock&diffMinrock=2300&diffMinboulder=20000&diffMinaid=70000&diffMinice=30000&diffMinmixed=50000&diffMaxrock=5500&diffMaxboulder=21400&diffMaxaid=75260&diffMaxice=38500&diffMaxmixed=60000&stars=1.8&pitches=0&sort1=area&sort2=quality_stars+desc
(I tried to link it, but it ends up shortened with ellipses so you have to copy/paste).
That gives you somewhere to start.
(This post was edited by mojomonkey on Feb 9, 2012, 5:28 PM)
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cacalderon
Feb 24, 2012, 12:25 AM
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thanks mojo, cool site!
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j_ung
Feb 24, 2012, 12:47 AM
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You were missing quotes.
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healyje
Feb 24, 2012, 11:23 AM
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Head back up in any of the canyons until you are past signs of climbing, then do [trad] FAs. There's still a million of them to be done...
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ecade
Feb 24, 2012, 3:18 PM
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There are many, Black Corridor is a classic for sport but gets busy during the weekends. There a many other great crags that do not get as busy because they only have harder grades 11s and upwards.
Attached is a listing of routes, I had gone out there over Xmas and before leaving prepared it using the Roxanne big Red guidebook.
The trad routes listed will be well below the grade you are looking for as I am still gaining experience in trad. They will be either easy multipitches with bolt belays or dihedrals cause I love to stem.
I only noted routes with star ratings of 3 (out of 5) or higher.
I didn't get to climb everything on the list so if reality differs from paper, my apologies.
happy and safe climbing
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Attachments:
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Red Rocks climbing list.doc
(32.5 KB)
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ecade
Feb 24, 2012, 4:04 PM
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Agree and Disagree,
some of the movements of the routes have some sweet movements, like the one at the entrance of the corridor, in your pic, there is someone in blue bending over alone at the foot of the root, ah the first 3 clips of her have some great heel hooks and moves that'll make you smile.
But ya crowded and most certainly like you said groups of top ropers with 1 rope gunner.
perhaps its cause we are from different parts of the planet, but to me at least, I didn't find any holds to be polished. come out to Ontario, some of our limestone is so polished you can see your reflection in it!
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marc801
Feb 25, 2012, 12:35 AM
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ecade wrote: perhaps its cause we are from different parts of the planet, but to me at least, I didn't find any holds to be polished. come out to Ontario, some of our limestone is so polished you can see your reflection in it!
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jt512
Feb 25, 2012, 8:24 AM
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marc801 wrote: ecade wrote: There are many, Black Corridor is a classic for sport but gets busy during the weekends. The Black Corridor is easily one of the 10 most unpleasant climbing areas in the states, for a variety of reasons. Crowds, polished holds, spray-lords, and stench from said crowds are but 4. It's an outdoor gym in the worst sense of that term. Gang top roping in groups of 6 with only one leader able to get the rope to the chains is the norm. There are much better sport crags accessible from the same parking area. 
And all but a couple of the routes suck.
Jay
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USnavy
Feb 25, 2012, 8:18 PM
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marc801 wrote: ecade wrote: There are many, Black Corridor is a classic for sport but gets busy during the weekends. The Black Corridor is easily one of the 10 most unpleasant climbing areas in the states, for a variety of reasons. Crowds, polished holds, spray-lords, and stench from said crowds are but 4. It's an outdoor gym in the worst sense of that term. Gang top roping in groups of 6 with only one leader able to get the rope to the chains is the norm. There are much better sport crags accessible from the same parking area. [image]http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr119/crossman04/Red%20Rocks%20May%2009/RedRocksMay09023.jpg[/image]
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marc801
Feb 25, 2012, 8:54 PM
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USnavy wrote: As far as polished holds go, ha, its sandstone, if you think those routes are polished try climbing on some of the classic limestone lines in Spain, its like climbing on glass.
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mojomonkey
Feb 26, 2012, 4:13 AM
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marc801 wrote: USnavy wrote: As far as polished holds go, ha, its sandstone, if you think those routes are polished try climbing on some of the classic limestone lines in Spain, its like climbing on glass. I wasn't comparing it to Spain or limestone - just other routes in Red Rocks.
He's always looking for a post to wedge in references to places he's climbed. Did you hear he's climbed THE NOSE?
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moose_droppings
Feb 26, 2012, 6:10 AM
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mojomonkey wrote: marc801 wrote: USnavy wrote: As far as polished holds go, ha, its sandstone, if you think those routes are polished try climbing on some of the classic limestone lines in Spain, its like climbing on glass. I wasn't comparing it to Spain or limestone - just other routes in Red Rocks. He's always looking for a post to wedge in references to places he's climbed. Did you hear he's climbed THE NOSE?
Isn't the Black Corridor in Red Rock?
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cacalderon
Feb 27, 2012, 12:52 AM
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thanks! appreciate the input, cheers.
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