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tequilaboom
Feb 19, 2012, 7:57 PM
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Hey everyone,
I'm a beginner trad climber and was wondering if there were any memorable (and not too hard) but REALLY TALL routes that come to mind? I'm mostly looking at the Val David area and surroundings. We are not really looking for a tough climb, but rather good scenery and just sheer height of the route. Thanks for your feedback!
P.S. We're from Ontario, so if you have any such routes in Ontario, don't hesitate to mention!
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dagibbs
Feb 19, 2012, 10:50 PM
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I'm not sure exactly where you are or are going -- but probably the best long easy trad routes in that general area are, actually, in the Adirondacks. I'd recommend Chapel Pond Slab - e.g. Regular Route, 5.5 PG, 775' (250m). Lovely, clean, long climb on good rock. And there's several other good choices -- with an approach time from road side of, oh, about a minute.
In eastern Ontario, Bon Echo is a cliff about 100m high that is all trad climbing and has some good easier routes, and includes beautiful views out over Mazinaw lake. Biggest disadvantage is that you climb from the water, so the climbs all need a boat for access.
In western Quebec (that is, west of Montreal) which is the area I know, there isn't a lot.
Montagne d'Argent has a few multi-pitch routes, but they don't tend to be very memorable.
Val David L'Arabesque section on Mont Cesaire has some easy routes that go about 80m.
And Mont King on the Eardley Escarpment (near Ottawa in Gatineau Park) has some multi-pitch trad stuff, with the best easy route being Rocket Man (5.4) which goes about 80m, and has nice views from the top.
The Weir is another large cliff, but from what I can tell the "easy" routes start at 5.8 and up from there. And there's only a couple routes in that range, and most are in the 5.10+ range.
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rocknice2
Feb 21, 2012, 1:09 AM
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Mont King is in Val David and is about 100m high.
Other than that I agree with dagibbs
Go to the Dacks if you want easy mileage
Chapel Pond Slab 250m
Poko Slab 200m
Washbowl 150m
Wallface -300m
There may be 2 MK's
(This post was edited by rocknice2 on Feb 21, 2012, 1:11 AM)
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dagibbs
Feb 22, 2012, 5:38 AM
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rocknice2 wrote: Mont King is in Val David and is about 100m high. Other than that I agree with dagibbs There may be 2 MK's
There are (at least) 2 Mont King's. I know of the Val David one, too. I didn't think it had long easyish trad routes on it, but could be wrong.
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Bulletproof2000
Feb 23, 2012, 4:03 AM
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You can lookup Tummy Gummy at Mont King in Val-David, 5.7ish, ratings are easy here compared to the dacks.
Arabesque is an easy classic too.
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dagibbs
Feb 23, 2012, 4:26 AM
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Bulletproof2000 wrote: You can lookup Tummy Gummy at Mont King in Val-David, 5.7ish, ratings are easy here compared to the dacks. Arabesque is an easy classic too.
My guide lists Tummy Gummy as 5.7 (D) *** -- where "D" means "Difficile" -- difficult to protect.
It doesn't at all clearly list lengths for the climbs, though.
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ecade
Feb 23, 2012, 2:05 PM
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If you want great exposure in Ontario check out McCrae Lake, off the 400, Granite rock, has a sweet 12 sport route, many routes are quite tall and what the shorter ones lack in statuture they make up for in exposure and the view, (the tallest routes there are sport 11 and 12) The climbing is over a lake and really well exposed, especially, Sloppy Pussy 5.7 trad at sunset on a summers day, just heaven :)
Montagne D'argent has routes that are upto 55m , some are mixed routes some pure trad some sport. there are also some good mixed, sport and trad multi pitches that are great as beginner multi pitches because they have huge ledges to belay from.
I have the guide books for both McCrae and D'Argent if you are interested let me know and i can email them, provided you are willing to make a donation to whichever crags book you take (I think thats fair as the revenues from guidebook sales often support the crags and its often annoying that you cant buy guidebooks for crags, like montagne d'argent in Toronto, i had to get mine own route to the crag.
happy and safe climbing and if you have a spot in the car for a toronto climber let me know, i have a full rack and other gear.
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olderic
Feb 23, 2012, 3:47 PM
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Doesn't fit your "not to hard" criteria but to answer your question look east - to Malbaie and so on.
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Bulletproof2000
Feb 25, 2012, 12:46 AM
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dagibbs wrote: Bulletproof2000 wrote: You can lookup Tummy Gummy at Mont King in Val-David, 5.7ish, ratings are easy here compared to the dacks. Arabesque is an easy classic too. My guide lists Tummy[image] Gummy as 5.7 (D) *** -- where "D" means "Difficile" -- difficult to protect. It doesn't at all clearly list lengths for the climbs, though.
The ratings are fairly easy but the pro is a bit quirky on this route, it zig zags maybe too much for a beginner leader.
Arabesque in this regard is a beautiful route, fairly straight with tons of pro.
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tequilaboom
Feb 25, 2012, 5:22 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2011
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Amazing advice - thank you everyone for helping!
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johndseward
Mar 6, 2012, 5:32 AM
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Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park is near some of the longest and tallest routes in province.
Probably they are mid-grade or harder.
This is basic information.
You might be interested.
Is a long way from Toronto, or even Q. City
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