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eprex


Feb 25, 2012, 12:44 PM
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Training!
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Hi all!

I'd like to develop a more stable training routine with your help.

I currently climb indoors the most often, with outdoors occasionally.

I climb indoors Sundays, Mondays, and Fridays. Friday is the day I top rope with a partner while the other two days I'm on my own.

I'm thinking Sundays would be an 'easy' day- going over problems I've already done and making them more fluid, but most importantly not taxing my grip heavily. Monday could be my 'heavy' day, where after a warm up, I'm approaching harder problems that I have yet to complete. Then afterwards, following up with a little campus training.

Any thoughts on that? I'm open to any advice!

Lastly, I'm climbing at a 5.11 / 5.12 rating, and a v4 level. When should I think about getting into lead climbing? I believe the stipulation at my local gym is lead climbing a 5.8 or so, with a certain fall afterwards.

See you at central rock, ma!


eprex


Feb 25, 2012, 11:33 PM
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Re: [eprex] Training! [In reply to]
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Whew, slow forum!


sungam


Feb 26, 2012, 1:32 AM
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Re: [eprex] Training! [In reply to]
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eprex wrote:
Whew, slow forum!
Yeah, it's been a little slow lately. The usual advice that's given is that you should get yourself a copy of "The Self-Coached Climber" and use it to work out your training plans.
It's an excellent book, and should give you the information you are looking for. Also check out the training section in the nicros articles http://www.nicros.com/training/ and planetfear http://www.planetfear.com/articles.archive.php. There is also a great article on this website called "The Making of a Rockprodigy" http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ockprodigy__258.html


eprex


Feb 26, 2012, 10:22 AM
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Re: [sungam] Training! [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
eprex wrote:
Whew, slow forum!
Yeah, it's been a little slow lately. The usual advice that's given is that you should get yourself a copy of "The Self-Coached Climber" and use it to work out your training plans.
It's an excellent book, and should give you the information you are looking for. Also check out the training section in the nicros articles http://www.nicros.com/training/ and planetfear http://www.planetfear.com/articles.archive.php. There is also a great article on this website called "The Making of a Rockprodigy" http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ockprodigy__258.html

Thank you, great post. I'm reading the 'rockprodigy' article now!


shockabuku


Feb 26, 2012, 10:39 AM
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Re: [eprex] Training! [In reply to]
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Start leading now.

I like your gym.


jt512


Feb 26, 2012, 11:59 AM
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Re: [shockabuku] Training! [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
Start leading now.

When he's only climbing 5.12?

Jay


shockabuku


Feb 26, 2012, 1:31 PM
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Re: [jt512] Training! [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
Start leading now.

When he's only climbing 5.12?

Jay

I think he sounds motivated enough to successfully make the transition to 5.8.


eprex


Mar 2, 2012, 8:59 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] Training! [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
jt512 wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
Start leading now.

When he's only climbing 5.12?

Jay

I think he sounds motivated enough to successfully make the transition to 5.8.

I've seen some of the lead routes at my gym and they look pretty easy. There are a few that are pretty big holds straight up to the top.

My schedule needs revamping though. I want to have a day where I can work grip, but I'm not sure 1-2 days is enough for recovery.

I'm thinking climbing M,W,F and the gym (for legs and chest) on Sundays.


(This post was edited by eprex on Mar 2, 2012, 8:59 PM)


shockabuku


Mar 2, 2012, 11:08 PM
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Re: [eprex] Training! [In reply to]
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eprex wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
jt512 wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
Start leading now.

When he's only climbing 5.12?

Jay

I think he sounds motivated enough to successfully make the transition to 5.8.

I've seen some of the lead routes at my gym and they look pretty easy. There are a few that are pretty big holds straight up to the top.

My schedule needs revamping though. I want to have a day where I can work grip, but I'm not sure 1-2 days is enough for recovery.

I'm thinking climbing M,W,F and the gym (for legs and chest) on Sundays.

A M, W, F training schedule is pretty easily sustainable for most people. If you start to be chronically tired or sore, take an extra day off.


fr4nkey


Apr 16, 2012, 10:47 AM
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Re: [eprex] Training! [In reply to]
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Have look on this site you can find there a bit different way how to do climbing training. http://www.rockclimbingtoronto.net


jt512


Apr 16, 2012, 11:20 AM
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Re: [fr4nkey] Training! [In reply to]
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fr4nkey wrote:
Have look on this site you can find there a bit different way how to do climbing training. http://www.rockclimbingtoronto.net

More spam.


saint_john


Apr 16, 2012, 1:19 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] Training! [In reply to]
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Toproping 5.12 indoors is a lot like masturbating. It might feel good at the time but it's not something to brag about.


shockabuku


Apr 16, 2012, 1:52 PM
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Re: [saint_john] Training! [In reply to]
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saint_john wrote:
Toproping 5.12 indoors is a lot like masturbating. It might feel good at the time but it's not something to brag about.

That might depend on how frequently you can manage to do it. Or other atypical achievements.


fr4nkey


Apr 17, 2012, 2:23 PM
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Re: [jt512] Training! [In reply to]
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ok but that book really works.


jamesnater


Apr 19, 2012, 3:19 PM
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Re: [saint_john] Training! [In reply to]
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saint_john wrote:
Toproping 5.12 indoors is a lot like masturbating. It might feel good at the time but it's not something to brag about.
LOL


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