Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training:
BMI , does it make a difference?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Technique & Training

Premier Sponsor:

 


flesh


Feb 24, 2012, 10:33 AM
Post #1 of 11 (3189 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 11, 2011
Posts: 418

BMI , does it make a difference?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

From 8a.nu, I found this interesting, thought I'd share.
Attachments: So I have done this very low level scientifical studie.docx (85.6 KB)


flesh


Feb 24, 2012, 10:53 AM
Post #2 of 11 (3177 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 11, 2011
Posts: 418

Re: [flesh] BMI , does it make a difference? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I was thinking, maybe alot of the men on 8a.nu list weights that are higher than reality. I have a few freinds on 8a.nu and they weigh 5-15 lbs less then they list. I'm guessing it's because if your a very thin man, you may not want people to know how light you are. If your 5, 10 135, you may list 150.

Last night I was climbing with 4 other climbers that boulder v10 or harder, some v12.

Here's their weight/height

6,3 165

5,7 140

510 140

5,9 130

I am

5,11.5 152 (I've lost another 5 lbs in the last month)


shockabuku


Feb 24, 2012, 10:57 AM
Post #3 of 11 (3171 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4861

Re: [flesh] BMI , does it make a difference? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

flesh wrote:
I was thinking, maybe alot of the men on 8a.nu list weights that are higher than reality. I have a few freinds on 8a.nu and they weigh 5-15 lbs less then they list. I'm guessing it's because if your a very thin man, you may not want people to know how light you are. If your 5, 10 135, you may list 150.

Last night I was climbing with 4 other climbers that boulder v10 or harder, some v12.

Here's their weight/height

6,3 165

5,7 140

510 140

5,9 130

I am

5,11.5 152 (I've lost another 5 lbs in the last month)

I did a quick survey about it last year some time. It appears that the answer was yes.

Losing weight sucks. I guess that's why we called it "sucking weight" when I was a wrestler.


shockabuku


Feb 24, 2012, 11:00 AM
Post #4 of 11 (3162 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4861

Re: [flesh] BMI , does it make a difference? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm not an 8a.nu reader (GASP!) so I don't recall how you get points, but isn't it by some number of hardest sends or something like that?

I think a better plot would be BMI vs. hardest single send or hardest onsight send.


flesh


Feb 24, 2012, 12:14 PM
Post #5 of 11 (3107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 11, 2011
Posts: 418

Re: [shockabuku] BMI , does it make a difference? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

shockabuku wrote:
I'm not an 8a.nu reader (GASP!) so I don't recall how you get points, but isn't it by some number of hardest sends or something like that?

I think a better plot would be BMI vs. hardest single send or hardest onsight send.


If I recall correctly, harder grades of course are given more points and your total points are based on a certain number of your hardest sends over the last year. Onsights are given more points and I think resends are given a bit less.

Somebody who has 11k+ points would have sent multiple v12-v13 maybe even v14 and 15's over the course of the last year. So the sampling is based on very good climbers. Alot of my friends are in the 10-11k area and they have dozens of v10 and some v11's and v12's over the last year.


jbro_135


Feb 25, 2012, 3:09 PM
Post #6 of 11 (2938 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2009
Posts: 662

Re: [flesh] BMI , does it make a difference? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

We are exactly the same height and weight, haha. Good to know I can climb V12 without losing weight...


jakedatc


Feb 25, 2012, 7:37 PM
Post #7 of 11 (2874 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054

Re: [shockabuku] BMI , does it make a difference? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

shockabuku wrote:
flesh wrote:
I was thinking, maybe alot of the men on 8a.nu list weights that are higher than reality. I have a few freinds on 8a.nu and they weigh 5-15 lbs less then they list. I'm guessing it's because if your a very thin man, you may not want people to know how light you are. If your 5, 10 135, you may list 150.

Last night I was climbing with 4 other climbers that boulder v10 or harder, some v12.

Here's their weight/height

6,3 165

5,7 140

510 140

5,9 130

I am

5,11.5 152 (I've lost another 5 lbs in the last month)

I did a quick survey about it last year some time. It appears that the answer was yes.

Losing weight sucks. I guess that's why we called it "sucking weight" when I was a wrestler.

Except that in wrestling you drop weight to wrestle in a weight class that is lighter than you are. then drink water and eat to get back up to as close to your actual weight as possible before your match.

Since dropping water weight just makes you weaker it doesn't really apply to climbing since there are no weight classes.

you have to look more at power to weight ratio.


surfstar


Feb 26, 2012, 9:52 PM
Post #8 of 11 (2766 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 30, 2011
Posts: 206

Re: [flesh] BMI , does it make a difference? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
-0,28, so its not a huge correlation.

NO SHIT! That's called 'not any correlation'.

Damn I guess I don't have any scientific excuse with my BMI of over 25 for not sending.


flesh


Feb 28, 2012, 12:32 PM
Post #9 of 11 (2629 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 11, 2011
Posts: 418

Re: [jbro_135] BMI , does it make a difference? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jbro_135 wrote:
We are exactly the same height and weight, haha. Good to know I can climb V12 without losing weight...

hah, ya honestly, I think i only have about 2-3 lbs to go and I'll be at the limit. Then again, I said that at 156.

Makes me wonder if my body is shrinking over time over the last year. I lost 20 lbs in about 4 months.... maybe then all my muscles started to get slightly smaller because it wasn't needed... then I lost some more... and so forth. I'm down to 151 and it seems like I have a few more to go. It's an interesting process. FYI, eat around 1500 cals on non climbing days and 2k on climbing days... the weight just keeps slowly coming off over time.

It's really nice though, crimps don't hurt like they did before and I can climb hard for what seems like hours many times.

Maybe 148 is in the cards. I simply see no reason not to keep going so long as my performance is improving and I feel great.


Partner cracklover


Feb 28, 2012, 1:27 PM
Post #10 of 11 (2601 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10010

Re: [flesh] BMI , does it make a difference? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Paging JT512. JT512, please pick up the nearest white courtesy phone.

GO


jt512


Feb 28, 2012, 3:57 PM
Post #11 of 11 (2544 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21892

Re: [cracklover] BMI , does it make a difference? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

cracklover wrote:
Paging JT512. JT512, please pick up the nearest white courtesy phone.

GO

It's an intriguing little dataset. The table in the attachment to the OP shows a clear negative trend between BMI (or weight) and number of points. Even ignoring the highest-scoring category, which contains only two climbers, there is a 15-lb (6.7 kg) difference in average weight between the next-highest point category and the lowest. So, on average, the lighter the climber, the higher his point score. However, the modest correlation coefficient (–.28) suggests that BMI is only a minor determinant of the point score.

Of course, random error in the reporting of three variables—height, weight, and climbing score—will contribute to attenuation of the correlation coefficient. And since these data are self-reported, they likely contain considerable random error; hence, the actual correlation coefficient may be greater in magnitude.

Jay


Forums : Climbing Information : Technique & Training

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook