Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners:
Learning trad....
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Beginners

Premier Sponsor:

 


Jennitx


Feb 26, 2012, 8:22 PM
Post #1 of 7 (1780 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 26, 2012
Posts: 5

Learning trad....
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

So I have been climbing for awhile 5.10/6 a,b+ and I really want to learn trad climbing. I have some time and will be in Moab for the next few months... Will it be worth the cash $750+ to go with a group and guides to learn trad climbing at Indian creek? I would obviously like to spend no money and have some gracious soul teach me everything there is to know about trad, but I also don't want to be a pain in the ass burden on someone elses good times...

The question is: Spend the money and come out a superstar? Or beg for help? Or if anyone out there wants to teach a wannabe newbie like me... Lemme know. I have 3 months off :)


Kartessa


Feb 26, 2012, 8:52 PM
Post #2 of 7 (1762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 7356

Re: [Jennitx] Learning trad.... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

Jennitx wrote:
So I have been climbing for awhile 5.10/6 a,b+ and I really want to learn trad climbing. I have some time and will be in Moab for the next few months... Will it be worth the cash $750+ to go with a group and guides to learn trad climbing at Indian creek? I would obviously like to spend no money and have some gracious soul teach me everything there is to know about trad, but I also don't want to be a pain in the ass burden on someone elses good times...

The question is: Spend the money and come out a superstar? Or beg for help? Or if anyone out there wants to teach a wannabe newbie like me... Lemme know. I have 3 months off :)

5.10/6a b+ is not an indication of experience.

The best thing to do is just keep climbing, take the baby steps, and if you have your shit together, are open and eager, and are a tolerable personality, you will find someone who will let you follow and clean after them. Don't forget to pay for gas, buy beer and pay attention to every damn word they say.

Or you can spend $750 for a shortcut course and double that for a proper IC rack. You'll still need to find a partner who is more experienced than you - even if you take a course and buy some gear, you have no place taking out someone greener than you.


vinnie83


Feb 26, 2012, 9:07 PM
Post #3 of 7 (1753 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 27, 2004
Posts: 110

Re: [Jennitx] Learning trad.... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You throw out some numbers about how hard you climb, but it might be helpful if you give some more specifics. Are you toproping 5.10 in a gym? Leading 5.10 sport outside? Do you know how to jam cracks?

Indian Creek is a lot of fun if you like climbing cracks, but if you don't have solid crack climbing skills it isn't the best place to learn how to climb them. You also will not be able to learn many fundamentals of trad climbing there since placing gear is very easy and doesn't require passive gear.

Learning how to lead trad is best done on moderate terrain well below your limit so that you have plenty of time to place gear and evaluate your placements. Climbing at indian creek pretty much starts at around 5.10, which seems to be your limit or beyond it depending on the type of climbing you're doing.

If you're going to be there for a few months that should allow plenty of time to meet some local climbers who might be willing to take you climbing and show you a few things about climbing cracks and maybe placing gear. My recommendation is don't immediately go blow your money on a guide.


Kartessa


Feb 26, 2012, 9:17 PM
Post #4 of 7 (1748 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 7356

Re: [vinnie83] Learning trad.... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

vinnie83 wrote:

Indian Creek is a lot of fun if you like climbing cracks, but if you don't have solid crack climbing skills it isn't the best place to learn how to climb them.

Everything you said was bang on... Cept this part. The best way to learn crack technique is to get spanked around on TR on one of the best crack climbing areas in the world.


Jennitx


Feb 26, 2012, 9:58 PM
Post #5 of 7 (1722 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 26, 2012
Posts: 5

Re: [vinnie83] Learning trad.... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks for all the input, super helpful...

I've been climbing off and on outside for the past year. Just got back from Thailand. Climbed in chiang Mai and railay, tonsai beaches. I lead climbed some 6a's ( French) which equals 5.10? and I can comfortably climb 5.11b all outside sport.

So it seems getting there, climbing hard, not being a dumb ass and bringinging beer are key elements in the climbing process?

Climb on...thanks!!!


sungam


Feb 27, 2012, 12:10 AM
Post #6 of 7 (1690 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26585

Re: [Kartessa] Learning trad.... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Kartessa wrote:
vinnie83 wrote:

Indian Creek is a lot of fun if you like climbing cracks, but if you don't have solid crack climbing skills it isn't the best place to learn how to climb them.

Everything you said was bang on... Cept this part. The best way to learn crack technique is to get spanked around on TR on one of the best crack climbing areas in the world.
Yerp, before I want to Utah my crack tehcniq was dismally pathetic, but thanks to a couple months in moab now it's only mostly pathetic ^.^


justroberto


Feb 29, 2012, 8:33 PM
Post #7 of 7 (1436 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 21, 2006
Posts: 1876

Re: [Jennitx] Learning trad.... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you'll be in Moab anyway, you might as well hire a guide to teach you there where there are more moderates. Also, Grand Junction is just as close as IC and has a lot more to offer in the sub-9 range.

For what it's worth, if you're still around Austin there are a bunch of moderates at E-Rock perfect for learning to plug gear. For the most part they'll be shorter than in the desert but will provide just as valuable a learning experience, if not more, based on the variety of placements and character of rock.


Forums : Climbing Information : Beginners

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook