If anyone cared about us climbers, though, it would be really interesting to do a study on that! As it stands, most of our sport-specific training needs are all statically-based when it comes to our hands.

One of primary reasons why I posted this - there is non-zero probability that some climbers might be into physio research, this would make for an excellent research topic.

I also realize that static loading situations are more often encountered in climbing than dynamic. Here is my train of thought - Static/Dynamic load stresses tendons. Stressed tendons may develop micro tears which need to heal before becoming macro tears and major problems. Healing process is typically facilitated by blood flow, any training that helps increase blood flow to tendons may be seen as beneficial.

I also realize that static loading situations are more often encountered in climbing than dynamic.

Here is my train of thought - Static/Dynamic load stresses tendons. Stressed tendons may develop micro tears which need to heal before becoming macro tears and major problems. Healing process is typically facilitated by blood flow, any training that helps increase blood flow to tendons may be seen as beneficial.

So this means that the likes of finger curls (or is it finger rolls) will help finger recovery long term?.

Keep in mind this study actually states: "To our knowledge, this is the first study to demonstrate the changes in the mechanical properties and blood volume of human tendon after resistance training in vivo." In other words, one study showing this effect doesn't mean too much. Yet.

Keep in mind this study actually states: "To our knowledge, this is the first study to demonstrate the changes in the mechanical properties and blood volume of human tendon after resistance training in vivo." In other words, one study showing this effect doesn't mean too much. Yet.

When authors of scientific papers make that kind of statement, as they often do, they do not intend it to be a reason to take their research with a grain of salt. They mean almost the exact opposite: that their paper is particularly important because it contributes new knowledge.

Jay

As to the rest being beneficial - yes. Proven protocol for lower grade Achilles tendinosis rehab is rest, stretching and eccentric exercises. Eccentric exercise protocol is - contract, release slowly, not unlike the DT protocol mentioned in the study. I believe the jury is still out for the length of that rest period.
When I was rehabbing dislocated shoulder - ortho encouraged not to use sling at all. Compare this to the previous "state of the art" - sling for weeks. As a matter of fact, I was able to kayak 2-3 weeks after dislocation.

I am not MD . . .

For example - everybody knows High Load Low Volume reps build muscle better? - Apparently Low Load High Volume, High Volume here is defined as exercising to failure, protocol activates muscle protein synthesis the best. Who knew!