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What do you do when the climbs are V-sent and V-impossible?
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fsacb3


Mar 1, 2012, 6:24 PM
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What do you do when the climbs are V-sent and V-impossible?
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I mostly boulder at my gym and sometimes I find there are problems I can do and problems that I can hardly get started on and not many problems in between. Does anyone else run into this? And if so, what do you do?

I'd like to work harder problems but sometimes it feels pointless to attempt a move over and over if I'm clearly not strong enough to complete it. If it's just out of my reach, and I can hold it a second before falling, then I'll definitely keep trying. But certain moves are V-diculous and I feel my time would be better spent elsewhere.

Usually I go back to problems that I can do and I do them again and again until I know I'll never fall. Perfect the movements and maybe do some variations. My theory is that if I make all the problems at a certain grade feel easy then the next time they reset the wall I'll be ready to attempt the next grade. And frankly sometimes I'd rather just get up the wall and feel like I've accomplished something rather than flail away on one hard move over and over.

I do try to sport climb some to not overdo the power workouts, but I really prefer bouldering. But perhaps another way out of a rut is to focus on ropes for a while.

Not looking for a specific answer to my "problem", just curious if other people experience this and what you do when stuck.


lena_chita
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Mar 1, 2012, 6:54 PM
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Re: [fsacb3] What do you do when the climbs are V-sent and V-impossible? [In reply to]
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fsacb3 wrote:
I mostly boulder at my gym and sometimes I find there are problems I can do and problems that I can hardly get started on and not many problems in between. Does anyone else run into this? And if so, what do you do?

I'd like to work harder problems but sometimes it feels pointless to attempt a move over and over if I'm clearly not strong enough to complete it. If it's just out of my reach, and I can hold it a second before falling, then I'll definitely keep trying. But certain moves are V-diculous and I feel my time would be better spent elsewhere.

Usually I go back to problems that I can do and I do them again and again until I know I'll never fall. Perfect the movements and maybe do some variations. My theory is that if I make all the problems at a certain grade feel easy then the next time they reset the wall I'll be ready to attempt the next grade. And frankly sometimes I'd rather just get up the wall and feel like I've accomplished something rather than flail away on one hard move over and over.

I do try to sport climb some to not overdo the power workouts, but I really prefer bouldering. But perhaps another way out of a rut is to focus on ropes for a while.

Not looking for a specific answer to my "problem", just curious if other people experience this and what you do when stuck.

Yes, I used to find myself in this situation with some regularity back when we used to have slow turnover on the bouldering walls. Now the problems in the gym are being changed more often, and there are a lot more route setters, so the problem sort of went away.


Options that i have taken, at various points, when I have found myself in this situation before:

-- Set my own problems, and/or ask my friends to create problems for me. They don't need to be taped, just point out holds, and go for it.

-- play add-on or eliminates with willing partners

-- go climbing elsewhere, preferably outside, but a road trip to another gym would do, too.

-- use existing problems for 4x4s, pyramids, etc.

-- skip bouldering in favor of systems board, hangboard or campus board workout

-- sit on the couch, read climbing magazines, and talk to other "climbers" who are sprawled on coaches with complete lack of motivation

-- go dancing or do yoga instead of climbing


Traches


Mar 1, 2012, 7:55 PM
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Re: [fsacb3] What do you do when the climbs are V-sent and V-impossible? [In reply to]
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Been there, I usually run laps until they set some new routes/problems.


SlacklifeNC


Mar 2, 2012, 4:12 AM
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Re: [fsacb3] What do you do when the climbs are V-sent and V-impossible? [In reply to]
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Climb with people who are better than you.


fsacb3


Mar 2, 2012, 4:43 AM
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Re: [lena_chita] What do you do when the climbs are V-sent and V-impossible? [In reply to]
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Thanks lena_chita. Good suggestions, except for the part about dancing. Not gonna happen.


johnwesely


Mar 2, 2012, 5:19 AM
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Re: [fsacb3] What do you do when the climbs are V-sent and V-impossible? [In reply to]
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You can probably do more of the V-impossible climbs than you realize, even if you don't stand a chance of sending them in the near future. Find sequences on the problems you can nearly complete and work them again and again. You might find that after a few a sessions, you have parts of the V-impossible completed and can work on linking the problem. You have to be willing to fail though. If you time in the gym is performance oriented rather than training oriented, this sort of thing is going to get old really fast. Focus on the small victories, and make sure you take between 5-10 minutes between attempt. You don't want to hurt yourself, and you need to be completely fresh or your movement quality will suffer. When you notice fatigue, do something else or call it a day. After this sort of bouldering would be a better time to run laps on previously repeated problems as long as you can keep your movement quality up. Good luck.


fsacb3


Mar 2, 2012, 5:47 AM
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Re: [johnwesely] What do you do when the climbs are V-sent and V-impossible? [In reply to]
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Thanks for the motivation. I think you're right. I tend to sabotage myself by thinking a climb is impossible.

On a side note, this might be one of the advantages/disadvantages of gym climbing. If you're outside, there are only a certain number of climbs per square mile. So if you can't send something, you're probably going to stay there and attempt it over and over rather than walk a mile to the next crag. Whereas at a gym if you can't send something you just move on and perhaps never come back. Or you tell yourself that it's "not your style". Maybe it isn't your style but that doesn't mean you shouldn't climb it.


Idako


Mar 2, 2012, 8:08 AM
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Re: [fsacb3] What do you do when the climbs are V-sent and V-impossible? [In reply to]
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I agree with SlacklifeNC, either climb with or at least watch people who are better than you do the same routes you are attempting.

Sometimes that little bit of beta can make all the difference in the world. That foot swap or match that you didn't think to try can dramatically change the way you look at the problem.


camhead


Mar 2, 2012, 9:47 AM
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Re: [lena_chita] What do you do when the climbs are V-sent and V-impossible? [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
Options that i have taken, at various points, when I have found myself in this situation before:

...

-- sit on the couch, read climbing magazines, and talk to other "climbers" who are sprawled on coaches with complete lack of motivation

-- go dancing or do yoga instead of climbing

#17.


stickyfingerz


Mar 2, 2012, 10:53 AM
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Re: [fsacb3] What do you do when the climbs are V-sent and V-impossible? [In reply to]
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If you really want to improve, you need to be ruthless about identifying and diagnosing your weaknesses.

What are the specific moves or characteristics of the problems that you are failing on?

Is it a certain type of hold that's giving you problems? Crimps? Slopers?

Do you need more forearm endurance? Dynamic power? Core tension?

Do you need to lose weight?

Are there problems that are rated easier than your best send, but you still can't do them? What specifically is difficult about these problems?

Also, keep in mind that gym problems can vary in difficulty from person to person based on body size/geometry. Outside, you can usually find intermediate/alternate holds to use. Inside, not so much.

Get focused, have fun!


shockabuku


Mar 2, 2012, 11:24 AM
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Re: [fsacb3] What do you do when the climbs are V-sent and V-impossible? [In reply to]
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I used to have much the same problem, but then I started using my time in the gym as more of a training tool than a performance event. I climb the same climbs quite often.

Some of my variations:

I'll try to do every V0-VX in a faster time that I did it last time.

Every V0-V(X+1), or some goal of grades.

Warm up and then 4x4 at higher grades than last time (hard when the gym is busy)

Some days I'll warm up and do some projecting on things that I can make progress with.

Warm up and project things that are clearly too hard but give each one 4-6 tries and not worry about the result too much.

Throwing in some sport climbing every now and then for a couple of weeks also adds some variety and allows some rest from the more intense bouldering routines.

It really takes a shift in attitude toward what you're doing in the gym to not get frustrated however.


Toast_in_the_Machine


Mar 2, 2012, 2:22 PM
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Re: [fsacb3] What do you do when the climbs are V-sent and V-impossible? [In reply to]
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Bitch to the routesetters or bribe them.


Partner robdotcalm


Mar 2, 2012, 2:27 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] What do you do when the climbs are V-sent and V-impossible? [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
-- talk to other "climbers" who are sprawled on coaches with complete lack of motivation

Well, I suppose it depends on the gender of the coach.

Rob.calm


fsacb3


Mar 2, 2012, 6:57 PM
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Re: [Idako] What do you do when the climbs are V-sent and V-impossible? [In reply to]
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I think the advice to "watch better climbers" should be amended to "watch slightly better climbers". In my experience, watching a V12 climber sail up a V5 is not helpful for technique since they skip holds and don't need proper beta. But watching a V7 climber do a V5 is indeed educational.


lena_chita
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Mar 3, 2012, 5:27 PM
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Re: [robdotcalm] What do you do when the climbs are V-sent and V-impossible? [In reply to]
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robdotcalm wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
-- talk to other "climbers" who are sprawled on coaches with complete lack of motivation

Well, I suppose it depends on the gender of the coach.

Rob.calm

When you put it that way... yes, definitely!


ceebo


Mar 4, 2012, 4:50 PM
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Re: [fsacb3] What do you do when the climbs are V-sent and V-impossible? [In reply to]
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It is difficult when you get in that posistion especially in a buisy gym.

A good work around is to use only the foot holds of the problems you can not do.. and only the hand holds of the problems you can do. So on 1 line you may have v8 micro foot holds with v5 sloper hands.


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