Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing:
red rock sport suggestions/hard 511-easy 5.12
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Sport Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


olive


Mar 4, 2012, 6:51 PM
Post #1 of 11 (2561 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 5, 2003
Posts: 597

red rock sport suggestions/hard 511-easy 5.12
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hey all,
I am gonna spend sometime at red rocks at the end of march, doing mostly multipitch but wanna do some single pitch sport too. I am looking to see if you have any recommended routes for easier 5.12s and harder 5.11s.
Thanks a bunch


blueeyedclimber


Mar 5, 2012, 7:24 AM
Post #2 of 11 (2511 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602

Re: [olive] red rock sport suggestions/hard 511-easy 5.12 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Panty Wall at the First Pullout is a good choice. I did Wedgie (12a) and Totally clips (11a). There is also an 11d there that I didn't do.

I highly recommend hiking in to do Unimpeachable Groping. It's easier than you are looking for (mid 10) but the multiple pitches and quality rock make it worth it. It's entirely bolted.

Josh


lena_chita
Moderator

Mar 5, 2012, 7:32 AM
Post #3 of 11 (2505 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5648

Re: [olive] red rock sport suggestions/hard 511-easy 5.12 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

My personal favorites (tend to be on the side of overhanging):

Geometric Progression, 5.12b at the Pier (still not sent... but I really liked it)
Under the Boardwalk, 5.11b, also at the Pier-- really fun.

Fear and Loathing 5.12a at the Gallery

Sweet Pain, 5.11d at the Sweet Pain wall (and other 5.11s at that wall are also a lot of fun, the ones I remember especially are Sister of Pain and Glitter Gulch

Rebel without Pause, 5.11a in the Black Corridor, though this one was sort of dual-feeling. on one hand, awesome moves. On the other hand, short, and spotting the unsavory and very thick *thicker than other sport routes, LOL) coat of grease, chalk and shoe rubber. And comes with the whole Black Corridor package. And yes, I listed it with "hard" 5.11s, because it a bit challenging for shorter people. But I still enjoyed it enough to give it 3 goes.


Dip


Mar 5, 2012, 7:53 AM
Post #4 of 11 (2494 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 16, 2009
Posts: 269

Re: [blueeyedclimber] red rock sport suggestions/hard 511-easy 5.12 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

blueeyedclimber wrote:
I highly recommend hiking in to do Unimpeachable Groping. It's easier than you are looking for (mid 10) but the multiple pitches and quality rock make it worth it. It's entirely bolted.

Josh

So you liked UG a lot? I've heard mixed reviews about it. Most who didn't like it refrenced less than desireable rock quality as their reason. I'm heading out this coming Saturday for 8 days. Dream of Wild Turkeys and Epinephrine are tops on the list (and maybe another shot at L29), but that only covers a few of the days there. A week ago i would've told you i was definitely going to get on UG, now i'm not so sure...


blueeyedclimber


Mar 5, 2012, 7:58 AM
Post #5 of 11 (2486 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602

Re: [Dip] red rock sport suggestions/hard 511-easy 5.12 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Dip wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
I highly recommend hiking in to do Unimpeachable Groping. It's easier than you are looking for (mid 10) but the multiple pitches and quality rock make it worth it. It's entirely bolted.

Josh

So you liked UG a lot? I've heard mixed reviews about it. Most who didn't like it refrenced less than desireable rock quality as their reason. I'm heading out this coming Saturday for 8 days. Dream of Wild Turkeys and Epinephrine are tops on the list (and maybe another shot at L29), but that only covers a few of the days there. A week ago i would've told you i was definitely going to get on UG, now i'm not so sure...

I don't remember the rock being lesser quality. There are also much better 10's to get on, but if you are going looking primarily for sport climbing, then UG gives a little more adventure than first or second pullout.

Josh


Dip


Mar 5, 2012, 8:00 AM
Post #6 of 11 (2483 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 16, 2009
Posts: 269

Re: [blueeyedclimber] red rock sport suggestions/hard 511-easy 5.12 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

blueeyedclimber wrote:
Dip wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
I highly recommend hiking in to do Unimpeachable Groping. It's easier than you are looking for (mid 10) but the multiple pitches and quality rock make it worth it. It's entirely bolted.

Josh

So you liked UG a lot? I've heard mixed reviews about it. Most who didn't like it refrenced less than desireable rock quality as their reason. I'm heading out this coming Saturday for 8 days. Dream of Wild Turkeys and Epinephrine are tops on the list (and maybe another shot at L29), but that only covers a few of the days there. A week ago i would've told you i was definitely going to get on UG, now i'm not so sure...

I don't remember the rock being lesser quality. There are also much better 10's to get on, but if you are going looking primarily for sport climbing, then UG gives a little more adventure than first or second pullout.

Josh

Gotcha. I think based on that and other responses, i'll keep it as a strong "maybe."


olive


Mar 5, 2012, 9:18 AM
Post #7 of 11 (2465 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 5, 2003
Posts: 597

Re: [Dip] red rock sport suggestions/hard 511-easy 5.12 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks for the suggestions. I did UG, last december. I really enjoyed it - more than I enjoyed Prince of Darkness. The movement was more varied, and I thought the pitches were fun. (But then, it was a good multipitch choice for a short, cold winter day, as it is super low commitment, and quick.)

Lena, yep, I try to stay away from Black Corridor as much as possible :)) Thanks for the suggestions. Out of those I have only done Giltter Gulch and Sweet Pain. I am kinda on the weaker side for overhanging things (having lived away from RRG for so long :)) but I'll check out the others.


jupiter


Mar 5, 2012, 11:33 AM
Post #8 of 11 (2431 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 26, 2007
Posts: 17

Re: [olive] red rock sport suggestions/hard 511-easy 5.12 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Here are some of my favorite sport climbs in that range
Janes Wall: Idiot's Rule 11d, Pigs in Zen 12b, Naked and Disfigured 12b
Cannabis Crag: Synapse Collapse 11d, KGB 12a, Cannabis 12a
Ethics Wall: Rafter Man (soft) 12a, The Laying on of Hands 11d
Wake Up Wall: Rise and Whine 12a, Pain Check 12a, Native Son 11c
Sonic Youth Wall: GBH 11c/d. Black Flag 11c/d,
Agent Orange 12b, Sonic Youth 11d, Everybody's Slave 11d, Loki 12a
These are just off of the top of my head, there are many others that are good in that range, but this should get you started.


bigo


Mar 5, 2012, 11:42 AM
Post #9 of 11 (2420 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 11, 2002
Posts: 237

Re: [olive] red rock sport suggestions/hard 511-easy 5.12 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

There are lot's of climbs in that range. Here are the walls that I like to hit.

Gallery - Sunny, cool location, social (crowded)
Wall of Confusion - right next to Gallery
Stratocaster Area - Near Gallery
Sweet Pain - more shade also crowded
Sunny and Steep - Lots of 11+ to 12s
Cannibal Crag - Small with a few really good climbs (best is the 12c)
Jane's Wall - little out of the way with several good climbs
The Pier - Shady with multiple 11's and 12's

Have fun - remember to head to the limestone if it rains...


crackmeup


Mar 5, 2012, 5:03 PM
Post #10 of 11 (2372 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 23, 2006
Posts: 146

Re: [blueeyedclimber] red rock sport suggestions/hard 511-easy 5.12 [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

blueeyedclimber wrote:
Panty Wall at the First Pullout is a good choice. I did Wedgie (12a) and Totally clips (11a). There is also an 11d there that I didn't do.

The 11d is Viagra Falls, not bad but nothing spectacular.

Like others said, Sweet Pain is very enjoyable (I think it's 11d as well).


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Sport Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$25.16 (10% off)
$80.06 (10% off)
$141.75 (10% off)
$233.96 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook