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Two-Rope Autolocking Belay Device
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lengvall


Mar 5, 2012, 4:53 PM
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Two-Rope Autolocking Belay Device
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As part of my senior design project for Mechanical Engineering, my group is interested in designing a sort of two rope auto locking belay device. I know alot of people loved the Tre but it isn't available anymore. Never got chance to check one out myself. There is a link to a survey below meant to gauge interest and identify design criteria. If you can spare 2-5 minutes, your input would be greatly appreciated.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/viewform?formkey=dFpuRGktekthMktjcUJfUDAxRzdrY3c6MQ#gid=0


acorneau


Mar 5, 2012, 5:54 PM
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Re: [lengvall] Two-Rope Autolocking Belay Device [In reply to]
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lengvall wrote:
As part of my senior design project for Mechanical Engineering, my group is interested in designing a sort of two rope auto locking belay device. I know alot of people loved the Tre but it isn't available anymore. Never got chance to check one out myself. There is a link to a survey below meant to gauge interest and identify design criteria. If you can spare 2-5 minutes, your input would be greatly appreciated.

https://docs.google.com/...UDAxRzdrY3c6MQ#gid=0


Made clicky.

Just so you know the TRE concept still lives on (albeit in single-rope only form) as the Edlerid Zap-o-mat, and there's the Mammut Smart Alpine.


donwanadi


Mar 5, 2012, 7:40 PM
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Re: [lengvall] Two-Rope Autolocking Belay Device [In reply to]
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Mammut Alpine Smart does that and well.


guangzhou


Mar 5, 2012, 10:43 PM
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Re: [donwanadi] Two-Rope Autolocking Belay Device [In reply to]
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My wife has an Alpine smart and loves it. It's a nice device for sure. Climb Technology also as the Alpine Up.

Eman


Partner rgold


Mar 6, 2012, 6:07 AM
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Re: [guangzhou] Two-Rope Autolocking Belay Device [In reply to]
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I've tried the Alpine Smart and am not a fan for its use in double-rope technique. I find it awkward to pay out one strand while taking in the other. And it stinks for rappelling.

For double-rope technique, there is a vast amount of room for improvement. Whether there is enough market interest to support the development of something that really works for this type of climbing is, of course, an open question,


bill413


Mar 6, 2012, 6:16 AM
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Re: [rgold] Two-Rope Autolocking Belay Device [In reply to]
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When I read the title of the thread, an image sprang to mind of two grigris side by side.


sungam


Mar 6, 2012, 6:55 AM
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Re: [bill413] Two-Rope Autolocking Belay Device [In reply to]
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bill413 wrote:
When I read the title of the thread, an image sprang to mind of two grigris side by side.
Same here ^.^

What could possibly go wrong?


rsmillbern


Mar 6, 2012, 10:22 AM
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Re: [sungam] Two-Rope Autolocking Belay Device [In reply to]
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thoughts on this??

http://www.climbingtechnology.it/...pine-up/details.html

A friend has the Click up (single rope device) and it seems to work pretty well, despite "requiring" a certian biner type...


bill413


Mar 6, 2012, 12:59 PM
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Re: [rsmillbern] Two-Rope Autolocking Belay Device [In reply to]
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rsmillbern wrote:
thoughts on this??

http://www.climbingtechnology.it/...pine-up/details.html

A friend has the Click up (single rope device) and it seems to work pretty well, despite "requiring" a certian biner type...

Interesting. I notice they carefully skirt around the problem of giving slack to only one second when the other is weighting the system.


juho.risku


Mar 15, 2012, 3:06 AM
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Re: [lengvall] Two-Rope Autolocking Belay Device [In reply to]
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Here's couple of resources you might find interesting on the design project:

1. Tribevine - we've collected a database of specifications and images of 110 different belay devices (and thousands of other pieces of gear), including those two double rope devices mentioned in this thread (Alpine-Up and Smart Alpine), take a look at: http://www.tribevine.com/...imbing|Belay+Devices

2. Garry Storrick has a great vertical devices page. Large portion of it are the belay devices. He has a huge collection of belay devices, some really rare / old ones as well. Take a look at: http://storrick.cnc.net/...e/VerticalHome.shtml


Khoi


Mar 15, 2012, 10:40 AM
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Re: [rsmillbern] Two-Rope Autolocking Belay Device [In reply to]
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rsmillbern wrote:
thoughts on this??

http://www.climbingtechnology.it/...pine-up/details.html

A friend has the Click up (single rope device) and it seems to work pretty well, despite "requiring" a certian biner type...

What certain type of biner does it require???


rsmillbern


Mar 16, 2012, 3:33 AM
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Re: [Khoi] Two-Rope Autolocking Belay Device [In reply to]
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Khoi wrote:
rsmillbern wrote:
thoughts on this??

http://www.climbingtechnology.it/...pine-up/details.html

A friend has the Click up (single rope device) and it seems to work pretty well, despite "requiring" a certian biner type...

What certain type of biner does it require???

The auto block does not work if the biner gets cross loaded as the device needs to move along the slot to block. As long as the biner is situated correctly it will work with most med/lrg HMS style biners.

They (manufacturer) are calling for a biner to help keep the biner oriented correctly

http://www.climbingtechnology.it/en-US/climbing/connectors/light-alloy.html?idproduct=883


gdstorrick


Mar 31, 2012, 5:18 PM
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Re: [juho.risku] Two-Rope Autolocking Belay Device [In reply to]
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juho.risku wrote:
2. Garry Storrick has a great vertical devices page. Large portion of it are the belay devices. He has a huge collection of belay devices, some really rare / old ones as well. Take a look at: http://storrick.cnc.net/...e/VerticalHome.shtml

Thank you!! ...and I made a MASSIVE upgrade earlier today - I invite everyone to check it out and make kind suggetions/corretions.

----> Gary with one "r"


shockabuku


Mar 31, 2012, 8:11 PM
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Re: [rsmillbern] Two-Rope Autolocking Belay Device [In reply to]
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It's one of those things that even if it works you wouldn't want to be seen with.


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