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gri gri

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Comptonclimber

Mar 6, 2012, 4:34 PM
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Registered: Oct 23, 2010
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gri gri Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

I didnt know this but the gri gri will only let 6kn through it before it will let some through. So it wont bring you to a complete stop and wont brake your back. just a cool thing I found out. Plus they will hold under a horrible fall on static line.

jae8908

Mar 6, 2012, 10:29 PM
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Registered: May 15, 2011
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Re: [Comptonclimber] gri gri [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Can you clarify? The gri gri will only let 6 kn through it before it will let some through? Won't bring you to a complete stop? Won't brake your back?

sbaclimber

Mar 7, 2012, 1:06 AM
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Re: [jae8908] gri gri [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

jae8908 wrote:

Can you clarify? The gri gri will only let 6 kn through it before it will let some through? Won't bring you to a complete stop? Won't brake your back?

I'm fairly sure Compton is referring to this:

Only seems to apply to the GriGriI though. I couldn't find any such data for the GriGriII.

(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Mar 7, 2012, 1:07 AM)

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USnavy

Mar 7, 2012, 4:01 AM
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Re: [jae8908] gri gri [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (2 ratings)	Can't Post

jae8908 wrote:

Can you clarify? The gri gri will only let 6 kn through it before it will let some through? Won't bring you to a complete stop? Won't brake your back?

He is essentially saying that the GriGri will slip if excessively loaded. The GriGri's braking power is not infinite, it has a limit. The specifics of this can be found in the GriGri manual. However, simply saying that the GriGri will slip once the load hits 6 kN is very misleading. The tests Petzl published in the manual are just simple tests on seemingly random fall samples. However in actuality, how much force it take to get the GriGri to slip is extremely situation dependent. There are many variables that go into determining how much force the GriGri can actually resist, the biggest probably being rope diameter. So the information outlined in the GriGri manual is just a guide, its not an absolute statement of how much force the GriGri can resist before slipping.

(This post was edited by USnavy on Mar 7, 2012, 4:12 AM)

jae8908

Mar 7, 2012, 6:47 AM
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Re: [USnavy] gri gri [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Ok, I read the manual on my gri gri and remember seeing that it would indeed slip under extreme force. I can't think of a situation where "I", and I stress the word "I", would be belaying anyone and for some reason the gri gri slipped. Anyone think of a situation where this may occur in regular sport climbing?

kennoyce

Mar 7, 2012, 8:33 AM
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Re: [jae8908] gri gri [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

jae8908 wrote:

No, in single pitch sport climbing there should never be a way that a grigri would ever feel 6kN of force on it. About the only climbing scenario that I can think of where it could feel that much force would be a facter two fall directly onto the grigri (i.e. not clipping the masterpoint).

JimTitt

Mar 7, 2012, 10:44 AM
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Re: [USnavy] gri gri [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

The Gri gri is pretty consistent with the slip values relative to rope diameter as far as my testing goes and from what I remember from the Grigri2 tests it was about 10% lower. The good news it doesn´t screw the rope up!

Jim

gunkiemike

Mar 8, 2012, 2:54 PM
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Re: [JimTitt] gri gri [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

What?! Grigri's don't break your back, rip all the gear out and snap the rope??

Next you'll try to get me to believe that toothed ascenders don't shred the rope sheath on every single TR solo fall.

Heresy, pure heresy I say.

climbingaggie03

Mar 8, 2012, 8:50 PM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2004
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Re: [jae8908] gri gri [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

We weren't sport climbing, but some friends and I set up a rope jump/swing a la Dan Osman style (but not his scale) We used a gri-gri as our attachment to a rope (with back ups) the gri-gri never slipped, but it sure did pinch the rope hard. It was pretty hard to get it to release.

Video of said jump http://youtu.be/P2w1u94neUQ?t=5m49s

Comptonclimber

Mar 9, 2012, 9:24 AM
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Registered: Oct 23, 2010
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Re: [ [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

sorry i didnt clarify. The information came from a petzl tester from italy. He dropped 400 pounds directly on to a static and didnt even hurt the gri gri.