Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners:
is this normal?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Beginners

Premier Sponsor:

 


shaund3


Mar 13, 2012, 9:57 PM
Post #1 of 16 (3580 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 13, 2012
Posts: 1

is this normal?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I started top rope climbing about 2 months ago in the gym and have progressed to doing 5.9-5.10a's.

Everything seems to be going well except my forearm soreness lasts up to 5-7days. I haven't been climbing during the soreness but it's annoying because I want to go more regularly. Is this still normal the 7th time going?

I don't find myself looking all my grip strength super quick but still, after reading other threads I suspect I am holding on too tight. Any strategies to learn to do this other than just to try being conscience of it? Other ways to reduce the soreness?

I won't sob if you tell me I am weak!


jt512


Mar 13, 2012, 11:04 PM
Post #2 of 16 (3555 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21892

Re: [shaund3] is this normal? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

shaund3 wrote:
I started top rope climbing about 2 months ago in the gym and have progressed to doing 5.9-5.10a's.

Everything seems to be going well except my forearm soreness lasts up to 5-7days. I haven't been climbing during the soreness but it's annoying because I want to go more regularly. Is this still normal the 7th time going?

I don't find myself looking all my grip strength super quick but still, after reading other threads I suspect I am holding on too tight. Any strategies to learn to do this other than just to try being conscience of it? Other ways to reduce the soreness?

I won't sob if you tell me I am weak!

Will you sob if we tell you to take more days off between climbing sessions?

Jay


Co1urzz


Mar 14, 2012, 12:28 AM
Post #3 of 16 (3535 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 17, 2011
Posts: 32

Re: [shaund3] is this normal? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

more protein.


jt512


Mar 14, 2012, 12:38 AM
Post #4 of 16 (3532 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21892

Re: [Co1urzz] is this normal? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

Co1urzz wrote:
more protein.

Is the Internet great, or what.


bill413


Mar 14, 2012, 6:36 AM
Post #5 of 16 (3460 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674

Re: [jt512] is this normal? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
Co1urzz wrote:
more protein.

Is the Internet great, or what.

What?


bill413


Mar 14, 2012, 6:39 AM
Post #6 of 16 (3455 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674

Re: [shaund3] is this normal? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Stretch after climbing.

Pay attention to how you feel when climbing - you may be repeatedly performing the same moves to the point of injury.


blueeyedclimber


Mar 14, 2012, 11:15 AM
Post #7 of 16 (3343 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602

Re: [bill413] is this normal? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

bill413 wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Co1urzz wrote:
more protein.

Is the Internet great, or what.

What?

Now I'm no nutritionist, but I believe his point was that on the internet, everyone's an expert. He was both pointing out that in addition to the lack of protein having nothing to do with the problem at hand (extended soreness of the forearms).

I thought that was obvious Cool

Josh


jt512


Mar 14, 2012, 11:27 AM
Post #8 of 16 (3333 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21892

Re: [blueeyedclimber] is this normal? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

blueeyedclimber wrote:
bill413 wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Co1urzz wrote:
more protein.

Is the Internet great, or what.

What?

Now I'm no nutritionist, but I believe his point was that on the internet, everyone's an expert. He was both pointing out that in addition to the lack of protein having nothing to do with the problem at hand (extended soreness of the forearms).

Exactly!


olderic


Mar 14, 2012, 11:40 AM
Post #9 of 16 (3320 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1536

Re: [blueeyedclimber] is this normal? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  
Can't Post

blueeyedclimber wrote:
bill413 wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Co1urzz wrote:
more protein.

Is the Internet great, or what.

What?

Now I'm no nutritionist, but I believe his point was that on the internet, everyone's an expert. He was both pointing out that in addition to the lack of protein having nothing to do with the problem at hand (extended soreness of the forearms).

I thought that was obvious Cool

Josh

I think Bill is just answering the question - "is the Internet great or what?" with his choice. He gets extra credit for inserting the "?" that our resident expert - despite his oft proclaimed linguistic mastery - apparently left out.


fsacb3


Mar 15, 2012, 6:15 AM
Post #10 of 16 (3206 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 19, 2011
Posts: 21

Re: [shaund3] is this normal? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

My forearms are always slightly sore. I climb through it. Maybe I could be better if I rested, but I'm impatient and would rather climb more often. Try resting a week and see what happens. But yeah, it's normal


bill413


Mar 15, 2012, 6:45 AM
Post #11 of 16 (3193 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674

Re: [olderic] is this normal? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

olderic wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
bill413 wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Co1urzz wrote:
more protein.

Is the Internet great, or what.

What?

Now I'm no nutritionist, but I believe his point was that on the internet, everyone's an expert. He was both pointing out that in addition to the lack of protein having nothing to do with the problem at hand (extended soreness of the forearms).

I thought that was obvious Cool

Josh

I think Bill is just answering the question - "is the Internet great or what?" with his choice. He gets extra credit for inserting the "?" that our resident expert - despite his oft proclaimed linguistic mastery - apparently left out.

Thank you.


crjanow


Mar 17, 2012, 7:35 PM
Post #12 of 16 (2979 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 17, 2008
Posts: 69

Re: [shaund3] is this normal? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

shaund3 wrote:
I started top rope climbing about 2 months ago in the gym and have progressed to doing 5.9-5.10a's.

Everything seems to be going well except my forearm soreness lasts up to 5-7days. I haven't been climbing during the soreness but it's annoying because I want to go more regularly. Is this still normal the 7th time going?

I don't find myself looking all my grip strength super quick but still, after reading other threads I suspect I am holding on too tight. Any strategies to learn to do this other than just to try being conscience of it? Other ways to reduce the soreness?

I won't sob if you tell me I am weak!
no its not normal for your forearms to be sore for 7 days after you climb. it does sound like you are holding on too tight. try when you climb to use as little finger strength as possible to stay on the hold. its easy to learn this on top rope since you dont have to worry about falling.


ChessRonin


Mar 18, 2012, 9:16 AM
Post #13 of 16 (2898 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 13, 2011
Posts: 28

Re: [jt512] is this normal? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

 
jt512 wrote:
Co1urzz wrote:
more protein.

Is the Internet great, or what.

To be fair, nutrition may play a key role in your problem. Naturally, without more information we have no idea, but if you aren't taking in an adequate amount of protein then muscle recovery (and that of other tissues) will be slow and hindered. Perhaps more important is what you eat after you climb. Eat at least 100 calories worth of protein and carbohydrates within 45 minutes of the end of your session, and eat a good balanced diet generally, and your recovery time will be optimal.

As to whether climbing mechanics are leading to a prolonged soreness, I doubt that. If anything, over-gripping would lead to muscle fatigue or failure sooner, but not to a week long recovery. Climbing when your forearms are still recovering from your last session will increase your recovery time exponentially. It's also possible that you have some small injury to the connective tissue in your forearm, which is leading to the very long recovery periods.

To sum up, REST and eat properly, and you should not experience week long soreness. Try taking two weeks off from climbing, and then climb no more than 3 days a week, while focusing on a solid healthy diet. See if that helps your problem. If you nutrition questions, let me know.

Have fun and be safe!


mrmrkeller


Apr 17, 2012, 9:16 PM
Post #14 of 16 (2415 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 14, 2012
Posts: 3

Re: [shaund3] is this normal? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

I've heard both sides of the argument as to whether the Dynaflex Gyros work; however, I have one and by using it when I watch TV or study I have greatly improved my forearm strength AND Endurance. As for the first ten or so trips to the rock gym... it was normal for me to feel the forearm burn for a few days afterward- just do what the others have said and space out your trips til the pain subsides and eventually the recovery time will lessen with each trip.


Scoobdoo6559


May 2, 2012, 7:22 AM
Post #15 of 16 (2130 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 10, 2011
Posts: 13

Re: [ChessRonin] is this normal? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You might be over training and need more rest between climbing....


adelphos


May 2, 2012, 10:31 AM
Post #16 of 16 (2064 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 27, 2011
Posts: 56

Re: [shaund3] is this normal? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You should not be experiencing pain in the forearms. Tightness is normal, pain is not. You may be training too hard, 2-3 times a week is what you should be shooting for.

I can attest to the Dynaflex advice myself as I have found it helpful in my own recovery from a similar injury.

You are probably using your arms too much and climbing a bit aggressively for a noob. Slow down a bit. Don't focus on hitting that 5.10. Warm up on 5.7's and 8's, and do one or two 9's or 10's only after your warmups.

Take your time, learn to climb well, not simply hard. You need to shift some of that focus from your hands to your feet.


Forums : Climbing Information : Beginners

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook