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Comptonclimber


Mar 15, 2012, 6:17 PM
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forearm strength
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ive been climbing for about 1 year. ( average only 1 time a month. I can climb v3's and about a 5.10. My main problem is my forearms give out real soon so I cant keep working a problem. I used to be able to climb 4 hours straight but I hardly can climb an hour now. I dont live next to any climbing spots and was wandering if there was a workout or something I could do to get more strength and endurance. Im 6'2 and 160 lbs


fsacb3


Mar 15, 2012, 8:25 PM
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Re: [Comptonclimber] forearm strength [In reply to]
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I'll state the obvious: you're not climbing enough. If you really can't climb, and you want to improve your stamina/endurance, you can try hanging on something for a while. A hangboard would be best. Or you could try a doorjam. Or a pullup bar but using your fingertips. But you need to climb more.


scottek67


Mar 15, 2012, 9:01 PM
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Re: [Comptonclimber] forearm strength [In reply to]
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granite_grrl


Mar 16, 2012, 6:49 AM
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Re: [scottek67] forearm strength [In reply to]
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Oh fer fuck sakes, gimmicks and doorjams? OP, go to the gym and do some ARCing sessions (it's not "strength" you're lacking, it's endurance).


fsacb3


Mar 16, 2012, 7:26 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] forearm strength [In reply to]
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Oh for fuck's sake, he said he wasn't near a climbing spot, hence the suggestions for using substitutions. Try a little patience, granite_grrl


granite_grrl


Mar 16, 2012, 8:36 AM
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Re: [fsacb3] forearm strength [In reply to]
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fsacb3 wrote:
Oh for fuck's sake, he said he wasn't near a climbing spot, hence the suggestions for using substitutions. Try a little patience, granite_grrl
Hmmm, missed that. I still think a doorjam is a poor idea seeing as you're only working one type of climbing hold and there's no hand movement (releasing and going for the next hold). You could do a little better with a hang board, but you'd have use a chair/screw foot holds in the frame (or something else to take weight off of you) to be able to stay on long enough to mimic something like an ARC session....and quite frankly I don't know if I could bring myself to hang out on a hang board for as long as I ARC for (~30min).

There might be some other lower end hang board workouts to work on endurance but I don't know them. Would be worthwhile doing some research on though.

If the OP is getting out on weekends he would still probably bennefit from finding a wall (and a willing partner) and take some time to do some ARC sessions. It might not be as fun as working a route (I find ARC session pretty boring actually), but he'd probably see greater improvements if he did some structured training to adress his endurence issue.


ceebo


Mar 16, 2012, 9:38 AM
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Re: [Comptonclimber] forearm strength [In reply to]
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Comptonclimber wrote:
ive been climbing for about 1 year. ( average only 1 time a month. I can climb v3's and about a 5.10. My main problem is my forearms give out real soon so I cant keep working a problem. I used to be able to climb 4 hours straight but I hardly can climb an hour now. I dont live next to any climbing spots and was wandering if there was a workout or something I could do to get more strength and endurance. Im 6'2 and 160 lbs

Im a fan of campusing and hang boards. No question they would progress you physically to everything you asked and then some. But i have to say.. the big cloud here will be technique. One climb per month is far to little miledge in order to fully take advantedge of the gains you would make in campusing and hang boarding. That is assuming you had the experiance and restriction to avoid the mine field of injurys they can bring.. i tend to think you will progress to fast and bring on a life long injury/s.

If you think your situation will change in the near future then just wait for that. By change i mean you think you will have more access to climbing areas or climbing gyms.

If you know for sure that your situation will not chnge an time soon then consider other options. Make a small home wall?.. cots some 300 or so for a basic set up (not sure on $ conversions).

If something of the likes is not a option either.. then you will have to take the risk. Get hang board.. get 2 rungs you can put up somwehre. Read up ALOT.. take it slow, train hard but safe. Like i said, you will get strong.. but it will take you like 15x longer to make the technique gains of somebody who climbs regularly.

Look up flesh on this forum. Check his posts on big rung campusing.


boadman


Mar 16, 2012, 1:44 PM
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Re: [granite_grrl] forearm strength [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
fsacb3 wrote:
Oh for fuck's sake, he said he wasn't near a climbing spot, hence the suggestions for using substitutions. Try a little patience, granite_grrl
Hmmm, missed that. I still think a doorjam is a poor idea seeing as you're only working one type of climbing hold and there's no hand movement (releasing and going for the next hold). You could do a little better with a hang board, but you'd have use a chair/screw foot holds in the frame (or something else to take weight off of you) to be able to stay on long enough to mimic something like an ARC session....and quite frankly I don't know if I could bring myself to hang out on a hang board for as long as I ARC for (~30min).

There might be some other lower end hang board workouts to work on endurance but I don't know them. Would be worthwhile doing some research on though.

If the OP is getting out on weekends he would still probably bennefit from finding a wall (and a willing partner) and take some time to do some ARC sessions. It might not be as fun as working a route (I find ARC session pretty boring actually), but he'd probably see greater improvements if he did some structured training to adress his endurence issue.

Arcing smarcing.


Comptonclimber


Mar 18, 2012, 7:57 AM
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Re: [Comptonclimber] forearm strength [In reply to]
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I got me a 12 foot bouldering wall built in my back yard. I could only affford smaller folds but it works! I made it adjustable so you can adjust the angle.


ceebo


Mar 18, 2012, 11:56 AM
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Re: [Comptonclimber] forearm strength [In reply to]
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Comptonclimber wrote:
I got me a 12 foot bouldering wall built in my back yard. I could only affford smaller folds but it works! I made it adjustable so you can adjust the angle.

Good choice Laugh


roguecrimson


Mar 18, 2012, 3:00 PM
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Registered: Mar 16, 2012
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Re: [ceebo] forearm strength [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:
Comptonclimber wrote:
ive been climbing for about 1 year. ( average only 1 time a month. I can climb v3's and about a 5.10. My main problem is my forearms give out real soon so I cant keep working a problem. I used to be able to climb 4 hours straight but I hardly can climb an hour now. I dont live next to any climbing spots and was wandering if there was a workout or something I could do to get more strength and endurance. Im 6'2 and 160 lbs

Im a fan of campusing and hang boards. No question they would progress you physically to everything you asked and then some. But i have to say.. the big cloud here will be technique. One climb per month is far to little miledge in order to fully take advantedge of the gains you would make in campusing and hang boarding. That is assuming you had the experiance and restriction to avoid the mine field of injurys they can bring.. i tend to think you will progress to fast and bring on a life long injury/s.

If you think your situation will change in the near future then just wait for that. By change i mean you think you will have more access to climbing areas or climbing gyms.

If you know for sure that your situation will not chnge an time soon then consider other options. Make a small home wall?.. cots some 300 or so for a basic set up (not sure on $ conversions).

If something of the likes is not a option either.. then you will have to take the risk. Get hang board.. get 2 rungs you can put up somwehre. Read up ALOT.. take it slow, train hard but safe. Like i said, you will get strong.. but it will take you like 15x longer to make the technique gains of somebody who climbs regularly.

Look up flesh on this forum. Check his posts on big rung campusing.

Why not just copy and paste all the books on the market .
You know there is more self-esteem when you actually do your own work, its called pride and integrity!


lithiummetalman


Mar 18, 2012, 7:15 PM
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Re: [Comptonclimber] forearm strength [In reply to]
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If you can get away with it:

Buildering.


Comptonclimber


Mar 18, 2012, 8:42 PM
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Re: [lithiummetalman] forearm strength [In reply to]
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I also sometimes boulder a dumptruck. Its actuall kinda fun. And when I can builder I usually do


ghisino


Mar 19, 2012, 8:09 AM
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Re: [Comptonclimber] forearm strength [In reply to]
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having been the kind of climber who would get exhausted for the day in 1 hour, i'll try to attack this from a different angle.
The main problem i had at the time is that i was never getting on climbs that were easy enough to warm up properly or even to have a moderate day.

So i have 3 questions for you

1. are you warming up properly?
By this i mainly mean: do you start easy enough? Do you get pumped on your first 2-3 routes/10 boulder problems? If the answer is yes you are starting too hard and getting a "flash pump".

2.Do you know hom much you need to rest when you try something at your limit?
Examples:
-Hard bouldering, no more than 5 moves. I'd rest at least 1' between individual attempt and take a longer 10' rest every 10 attempts.
-Stamina sport climb, you fall (or succeed) with a massive pump. Expect at least 30' rest to fully recover plus some sort of re-warmup!!!


3. Do you have a correct notion of your intensity/volume continuum?
As a beginner i wouldn't expect you to handle much more than 2 laps at your limit (sport) OR 5 good attempts (boulder).
But you can probably manage 10 routes or 20 boulder problems if you bring the intensity down enough.
(yes, ridiculously low. If you don't enjoy it, it's not my problem)


Points 1 and 2 are a matter of experience and don't really change between a beginner and an hardcore climber.
Point 3 does change (year after year you can get a little more hard climbing done in a day) and can even be trained a bit without actually climbing.
Cardio has a positive impact on general recovery, so if you can swim or run or cycle it doesn't harm.
Circuit training is a tad more specific and a good way to get a lot of intense work done under smaller time.
If you have any idea of exercises that challenge your upper body, and especially your forearms (finger rolls, dead hangs, etc), lats/shoulders, and your core, you can build a circuit training session.
A good circuit is made of 8 to 10 exercises (stations). Exercise continuously for 20 secs, take 10 secs as a transition to the next station and exercise for another 20 secs, etc.
If the intensity is fine you should be fighting hard on the last 3-4 stations of the circuit and definitely feel an acceleration in pulse and breath.
Rest 10' after each lap and repeat to exhaustion.
Do this once-twice a week for 1 or 2 months and you should be seeing some gains in terms of all-day stamina (don't expect to climb harder, just to afford an extra route or two at the same intensity...)


Comptonclimber


Mar 19, 2012, 10:46 AM
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Re: [ghisino] forearm strength [In reply to]
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Ok thanks. That makes since. I usually try to warm up on a couple easy ones. but Im probably not doing enough resting ij between.


derk424


Mar 22, 2012, 8:12 AM
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Re: [Comptonclimber] forearm strength [In reply to]
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Id recommend googling dead points article about forearm endurance/strength training with a bucket of rice. Just started it a few weeks ago but its great for getting a pump going and injury prevention.

Hope it helps!


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