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CurlyFries
Mar 20, 2012, 3:08 AM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2011
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Hey all,
I learned to lead climb indoors a couple months ago. I really want to get on some leads outside. I have no idea where to find leads in Ontario though. I top rope 5.10+ but want to start around 5.7-5.9 for leading outside.
Any info would be much appreciated. I tried checking out the route section, but most of them don't specify if they are bolted or trad. Or where they even are.
EDIT: I am from Guelph
Thanks,
Dave
(This post was edited by CurlyFries on Mar 20, 2012, 4:18 AM)
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dagibbs
Mar 20, 2012, 4:10 AM
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Registered: Oct 1, 2007
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Where in Ontario?
I can give you pretty good beta around the Ottawa area, but if you're from Toronto or Thunder Bay, that 's not going to help you.
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CurlyFries
Mar 20, 2012, 4:18 AM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2011
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From guelph
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dagibbs
Mar 20, 2012, 4:20 AM
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Try asking on Ontario Climbing -- ontarioclimbing.com -- there's a lot of Toronto and southern-Ontario people on there. They'll likely have good suggestions, if there is any around.
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binrat
Mar 20, 2012, 12:09 PM
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Beer Bottle crag at Rattlesnake CA. There is a 5.7 on the pinnacle. Metcafle Rock there is a 5.6, 3 x 5.7, 2-4 x 5.8, multiple x 5.9. The route portion here is out of date so........
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granite_grrl
Mar 20, 2012, 2:42 PM
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Have you been leading inside? If you've been doing some leading inside thne you have the basics in terms of clipping, major mistakes of getting the rope behind your leg, etc. If this is the case you should consider getting on some of the bolted 5.10s around if you can already TR 10+.
That being said you need to have a greater awareness when climbing outside. On many 5.10's in Ontario it is NOT safe to fall anywhere on them. Sometimes it's due to a poor bolting job and sometimes it's just the nature of the climb (has ledges, etc).
The route section on this RC.com kinda sucks for Ontario. I think the Nemo sport climb list is fairly complete, but the entire Nemo listing is a mess. I think this is the majority of sport climb at Mt. Nemo:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...t_Nemo/Nemo_Central/
Otherwise Metcalfe has some easier bolted lines I believe. They have been discussed over at OntarioClimbing if you can search the information out.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/Canada/Ontario/Central_Ontario/Metcalfe/
A new guidebook is supossed to come out sometime, hard to say when that'll actually happen though. Until then it would be good if you could scrounge up the old guidebook. I hear they're trying to get some on the shelf at the Toronto MEC and I saw the Ontario sport guide at the drug store in Lion's Head last summer.
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CurlyFries
Mar 20, 2012, 3:07 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2011
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Yep, I lead every time I climb inside now. I can comfortably lead 5.9's. I have only attempted to lead one 5.10 but it seems like every bolt has crappy holds everywhere around it. I managed to get up it, but fell once at the last clip.
I want to start easier just to get a feel for it. I am relatively new to climbing (bit over one year) and can count the number of times I have been outside on my hands.
I have been looking for the guidebook, but the only tips I have gotten is the store in Lion's Head. Bit of a mission to just look for a book...
Thanks for the input!
Dave
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coastal_climber
Mar 22, 2012, 10:04 PM
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Registered: Nov 17, 2006
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I suggest staying in ontario.
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Kartessa
Mar 23, 2012, 5:00 PM
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As previously mentioned, your best bet is probably Metcalfe.
Or you can try the stuff at Nemo, verticalaim made a guidebook app that's not too shabby.
No guidebook? No problem! You shouldn't be the most experienced person in your party if it's your first time sport climbing outside, so see if your partner(s) have any ideas of where to go/what to do.
Oh and I did see a copy of the guidebook at The Mountaineer in Keene Valley.
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CurlyFries
Mar 23, 2012, 5:10 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2011
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Yea I was looking at getting the Rattlesnake and Nemo apps. Only thing is that I don't have anything that could run them. Any way to get a PDF version?
I managed to pick up a copy of the old guide book the other day!
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granite_grrl
Mar 23, 2012, 5:57 PM
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CurlyFries wrote: Yea I was looking at getting the Rattlesnake and Nemo apps. Only thing is that I don't have anything that could run them. Any way to get a PDF version? I managed to pick up a copy of the old guide book the other day!
The sport guide or the other guide (The Escarpment I think)? The sport guide is pretty complete for the bolted lines at Nemo.
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CurlyFries
Mar 23, 2012, 7:47 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2011
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Got both
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